Parker Paint Job

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Drswamp

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Location
Havelock NC
Started to re paint my 1995 Parker 2520 in Hunter Green, 1st coat is on 2 more to go.
 

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I am considering painting mine hunter green too! is there a preferred paint? I am on salt water here in Massachusetts.
I used Rust-Oleum Marine 1 qt. Gloss Deep Green Topside Paint 207007 - The Home Depot
I added some catalyst to harden it up more, Amazon.com
and some roll additive, Alexseal Yacht Coatings Topcoat 501 Roll Additive
I'm happy with the finished job, also on saltwater.
Thanks for the advice. I think yours looks good! I think it looks great. How did you know how much catalyst and roll additive to include?
 
When rolling and tipping...Roll and borrow the wifes blow dryer. Conventional roll and tip uses the brush to smooth out and burst any bubbles. Using a high quality foam roller AND a hair dryer set on low will yeild a finish on par with a paint spray gun. The warm air washed over the wet paint flows it out to a mirror finish and the warmth burst all micro bubbles. I've done cap off restos on 3 seacrafts now, one shot in Awlgrip and the others rolled and blown. Cant tell a difference.
 
I've had good results with a variety of Rust-Oleum paints. Particularly Oil-based Regal Red on our Diesel engines, and their Topside paints on a number of boat projects. I've been using a variety of their paints since the 1950's and have been surprised with how well the newer ones hold up...
 
Sold my Parker last year but still lurk on the site. I painted the new boat after I bought it. The best paints are 2 part polys. I used epifanes. Similar to awlgrip. I would also consIder alexseal as it is repairable unlike many paints. The epifanes only required rolling. No tipping. It looks sprayed.
 

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Sold my Parker last year but still lurk on the site. I painted the new boat after I bought it. The best paints are 2 part polys. I used epifanes. Similar to awlgrip. I would also consIder alexseal as it is repairable unlike many paints. The epifanes only required rolling. No tipping. It looks sprayed.
Looks incredible.
 
Particularly Oil-based Regal Red on our Diesel engines,

Yep...Thats where Rustolume would be good and have known people that used regular rustolume as a subsitute for Glytal paint for painting the inside casting of a engine for better oil flow.
I've used plenty of Awlgrip..Have now switched to Tamco's High Impact.

That Rustolume is pretty much "Implement" paint. No....I wouldn't use it on a boat. But then....I'm looking for a mirror finish.
 
Yep...Thats where Rustolume would be good and have known people that used regular rustolume as a subsitute for Glytal paint for painting the inside casting of a engine for better oil flow.
I've used plenty of Awlgrip..Have now switched to Tamco's High Impact.

That Rustolume is pretty much "Implement" paint. No....I wouldn't use it on a boat. But then....I'm looking for a mirror finish.
The Rust-Oleum Oil Regal Red did great on the engine and on the Borg-Warner transmission. I painted the engine only once in 28 years, and the transmission twice; the transmission really didn't 'need' repainting the second time. I used the Rust-oIeum Top Sides when I refurbished, and painted some fiberglass dingys, and the floor of one aluminum 12' Sears. The dingy's were two 'Sumners', two 'The Dink's' and one 15' 'Heritage'. They weren't nearly as shiny or durable as Imron or Awlgrip, but they looked and performed better than I expected. I used a color close to Hatteras Off White on the 4 smaller dinks; that provided no mirror finish. I used the same Oil Regal Red on the 15' Heritage and it came out 'close to' mirror finish. You could see clear reflections. Again, not like Alwgrip or Imron, but better than I expected for this amateur painter! ☺
 
@dstanl01 How much sanding did your prep take?
There was considerable sanding, fairing, and prep prior to painting but the boat was a working lobster boat and pretty beat up. I also had to remove spray rails, quarter guards and the rub rail. I glassed in the spray rails and that took a lot of time. I used all epoxy materials that take longer to set and are more difficult to work with IMO. If the hull hadn’t required so much work I don’t think it would have been that bad. I used the big Festool sander with a vac that took the prior paint off fairly easily. If I’d been painting my old Parker it would have been way easier and would have just scuffed the gel coat, done any minor fairing that was needed and primed and painted. I’d never painted a boat before and it was easy to get the hang of it. You get some practice applying the primer before you do your final coats. What was supposed to be the final coat I wasn’t completely happy with so did a quick resand and paint—came out almost perfect. You learn as you go and can always fix a mistake except on the final coat.
 
There was considerable sanding, fairing, and prep prior to painting but the boat was a working lobster boat and pretty beat up. I also had to remove spray rails, quarter guards and the rub rail. I glassed in the spray rails and that took a lot of time. I used all epoxy materials that take longer to set and are more difficult to work with IMO. If the hull hadn’t required so much work I don’t think it would have been that bad. I used the big Festool sander with a vac that took the prior paint off fairly easily. If I’d been painting my old Parker it would have been way easier and would have just scuffed the gel coat, done any minor fairing that was needed and primed and painted. I’d never painted a boat before and it was easy to get the hang of it. You get some practice applying the primer before you do your final coats. What was supposed to be the final coat I wasn’t completely happy with so did a quick resand and paint—came out almost perfect. You learn as you go and can always fix a mistake except on the final coat
@dstanl01 Just reading your reply wore me out :D. Thanks for the detailed response. I've been considering a repaint on my 1998 Parker 1801. Based on your reply I think the prep would be manageable. Probably won't do this until next season as I live on the MS Gulf Coast and some of our best fishing is quickly approaching.

Last question, where did you get the boat stands and how many required? Is that something you can rent?
 
@dstanl01 Just reading your reply wore me out :D. Thanks for the detailed response. I've been considering a repaint on my 1998 Parker 1801. Based on your reply I think the prep would be manageable. Probably won't do this until next season as I live on the MS Gulf Coast and some of our best fishing is quickly approaching.

Last question, where did you get the boat stands and how many required? Is that something you can rent?
Reel have you seen these? Looks pretty ingenious. Looks like they would be good for painting/working on bottom of boat or if you needed to do some work on the trailer itself. No affiliation, just came across them while looking for a solution to adjust bunks off my old trailer.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/98161
 
Most boat yards have them. You probably only need 2 for an 18 footer. 2 at the stern and block the bow.
 
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