Permatrim caused cav plate to crack?

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Blazinz28

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To clear this up -

Permatrim offers both a Bottom and Top mount Permatrim depending on model. I just went with bottom mount for ours.
 

12Parker2320

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From the Permatrim instructions;
Place the Permatrim over the top of the AV plate. Make sure the Permatrim is straight. The Permatrim should be mounted as close to the raised section as possible without lifting the Permatrim off of the AV plate. (The Permatrim in the picture is being installed on a single engine catamaran style boat and needed to be mounted further aft. This is not the norm. The Permatrim should be against the raised section.)

Once the Permatrim is in place use a clamp, or a extra hand, to keep the Permatrim in place while you drill through the two holes you just made in the AV plate to mark the Permatrim with the drill bit. Do not attempt to drill completely through. Remove the Permatrim and drill 1.4 holes through where you marked. Temporarily mount the Permatrim using two bolts, but tighten the bolts only enough so that they keep the Permatrim in place for drilling the remaining holes.
Click here for full instructions
Ok so the previous owner installed it correctly for the type of permatrim he mounted. Seems to me like the top mount would pull on the bolts as the force wants to lift the permatrim off the cav plate. But what do I know
 

Mpellet

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I get anxiety and dread just reading this thread. I’d shoot anyone who even got near my white Suzuki with a drill in hand and would have done the same to anyone who tried it with my faithful Yamaha that proceeded it. Yes, I run in the open ocean almost 100% of the time…..
 

12Parker2320

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What I see.......It was installed wrong and the crack was caused by that......Look at that white shim in the back. It's making the Permitrim stand off the cavitation plate in one spot. Now the fastners are being pulled tight , trying to bend the metal.....and the cracked the piece. The Permitrim did not have even support .
Warthog are you talking about this? If so it’s not a shim just the actual cut out of the permatrim, in other words just daylight. I’m curious if whoever installed it didn’t seat the permatrim back far enough
 

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Cman60

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I get anxiety and dread just reading this thread. I’d shoot anyone who even got near my white Suzuki with a drill in hand and would have done the same to anyone who tried it with my faithful Yamaha that proceeded it. Yes, I run in the open ocean almost 100% of the time…..
I agree completely. There is no way I’m drilling my yami 300. That is why I bought a 4 blade prop, bigger tabs, and moved the batteries into the console. Parker should have installed 12 x 18 tabs at the factory and they should have designed the boat with batteries in the console. They certainly know their boats are ass heavy.
 

Blazinz28

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I see the "Shim" as well. Not the actual crack but above it. Can see the rounded white edges.

Bolted down on both sides of the shim causing a lot of pressure there I'd imagine.

Warthog are you talking about this? If so it’s not a shim just the actual cut out of the permatrim, in other words just daylight. I’m curious if whoever installed it didn’t seat the permatrim back far enough
 

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Ozdogg

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I agree completely. There is no way I’m drilling my yami 300. That is why I bought a 4 blade prop, bigger tabs, and moved the batteries into the console. Parker should have installed 12 x 18 tabs at the factory and they should have designed the boat with batteries in the console. They certainly know their boats are ass heavy.
Very true statement!
 

12Parker2320

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I see the "Shim" as well. Not the actual crack but above it. Can see the rounded white edges.

Bolted down on both sides of the shim causing a lot of pressure there I'd imagine.
I guess my post didn’t clear it up. That is not a shim although the picture makes it look that way. That is just daylight seeping through. In other words your looking through the gap between the cut out to the permatrim and the edge of the cav plate. Guessing the bolts coming lose and cracked plate created the gap
 

12Parker2320

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Thank you, Knotflying. I was looking for my Permatrim instructions to verify the install. I installed my Permatrim on top of the AV plate and so far no issues.
What size motor do you have? From what I researched the top mount was for 70-200hp applications and bottom mount for 200+. Curious if the previous owner mounted the wrong permatrim on my 250 or if that is a newer concept. My motor is a 2012 and the permatrim came not long afterwards from what I can remember the seller saying
 

Mpellet

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I agree completely. There is no way I’m drilling my yami 300. That is why I bought a 4 blade prop, bigger tabs, and moved the batteries into the console. Parker should have installed 12 x 18 tabs at the factory and they should have designed the boat with batteries in the console. They certainly know their boats are ass heavy.
I am in season # 17 with the same Parker 2520SL. She was originally powered with a Yamaha F225. I hung a new 2019 Suzuki DF300APXX at the start of the 2019 season that now has over 600 hours on it. I run in the open ocean 100% of the time and over the years like to think that I have learned a thing or two about how to run my boat. Without question the most critical aspect to getting the best ride and best efficiency from the boat is to avoid putting any unnecessary weight AFT. Tabs help tremendously in adjusting for conditions and having a propeller that is correctly sized for boat & engine is absolutely essential but you can greatly diminish the effectiveness of those devices by loading weight AFT. I maintain that a pound in the stern has more impact on performance then 10 pounds carried in the forward section of the cockpit.

I don’t even need to turn my head around to look and I can tell just from the way the boat rides if there is a cooler with a 100lbs of ice in it stored in the stern. Conversely, I could have two coolers with 200 pounds of ice in each cooler up against the cabin bulkhead and I wouldn’t even know that they are there.

Anyone who is concerned at all with ride and performance of their Parker Pilothouse boat and I can say for a fact the 25, should never run with passengers or gear loaded towards the stern that could be located forward. The new boats have a lot going on aft with tanks/live wells, bench seats and other really nice looking storage and seating options but carrying that weight aft comes at a huge cost to ride quality and performance……
 
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Bodick93

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I just removed/ ran without / reinstalled my permatrim. One interesting observation is the presence of two areas that had worn through the permatrim paint (mating surface between AV plate and permatrim). One area was at the trim tab index marks, now covered by the permatrim, and the other was a proud casting forward of the trim tab anode. Both of these were bare aluminum, and it it clear that at those spots there was a lot of tension between the PT and the AV plate. I applied a dose of lifeseal there before I reinstalled it. Y'all may want to check yours this winter and install a continuous bead where they mate, in addition to the screw holes. Bare minimum, there is naked aluminum there now.
 

Ozdogg

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What size motor do you have? From what I researched the top mount was for 70-200hp applications and bottom mount for 200+. Curious if the previous owner mounted the wrong permatrim on my 250 or if that is a newer concept. My motor is a 2012 and the permatrim came not long afterwards from what I can remember the seller saying
I have an F200.
 

pelagic2530

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I just removed/ ran without / reinstalled my permatrim. One interesting observation is the presence of two areas that had worn through the permatrim paint (mating surface between AV plate and permatrim). One area was at the trim tab index marks, now covered by the permatrim, and the other was a proud casting forward of the trim tab anode. Both of these were bare aluminum, and it it clear that at those spots there was a lot of tension between the PT and the AV plate. I applied a dose of lifeseal there before I reinstalled it. Y'all may want to check yours this winter and install a continuous bead where they mate, in addition to the screw holes. Bare minimum, there is naked aluminum there now.
This brings up an interesting point, especially for you guys that are taking your permatrims on and off. In my installation instructions it was clearly stated to bed the plate with an adhesive sealant. I’d imagine that doing so would help to distribute the load on the plate away from just the fasteners as well as isolate the cavitation plate from the permatrim. Did you all omit this step in your installations? Because I can guarantee you that I couldn’t remove that permatrim plate if I tried.
 

12Parker2320

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I contacted permatrim and they confirmed the top mounted plate is the incorrect installation for my f250. Bottom mount is the correct application
 

Jburn

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Absolutely great thread guys, so many smart, experienced people working together to come to a conclusion that in my opinion is correct ( incorrect mounting location and not bedding in sealant) this is exactly why I subscribed when I bought my Parker last year.
Thanks to everyone, I will now continue with my Permatrim install.
Jeff
 

Tunify

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Weld it up, grind it down and throw some paint on it. You now have pre-drilled guides holes to mount the correct Permatrim. The tuna will be here soon!
 

12Parker2320

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For anyone curious I am having the AV plate welded this Thursday. I am also going to fill the existing bolt holes from the incorrectly mounted permatrim. Then will grind down smooth and apply some zinc chromate primer and then finish with the Yamaha blue touch up. I ordered the Y9 bottom mount permatrim. Will post up pics of the project as I do them
 

12Parker2320

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Weld it up, grind it down and throw some paint on it. You now have pre-drilled guides holes to mount the correct Permatrim. The tuna will be here soon!
That’s the plan. Contemplating using the existing holes or not. My only concern is the top mounted plate that was originally installed was mounted further back then I believe the bottom mount plate will be
 
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