Pilothouse guys (or anyone) what would you do?

[Bodick93]

I took the boat (2320) for a shakedown of a new piece of electronics and the pumps on a local lake the other day. I was solo. Over the course of the next few hours the wind kicked up. You all know that the cabin catches wind much more than the cockpit end and the boat really swings. The dock has a few pilings that stick up higher than the pulpit. I couldn't chase too much with the rear due to the other dock.
I am by NO MEANS an expert, but I did not want to tie off on the upwind side while I picked up the truck and trailer, which certainly would have been easy.
In retrospect sitting here at the kitchen table, I should have pointed the tail into the wind and eased sideways to the end of the dock, stepped off with the lines, and walked the boat around the end, to be perpendicular to the wind and tie up.
Does anyone have any piloting tips (or cowboy rope tricks) to bring the boat in solo in these conditions on the downwind side? I had the fenders on the stbd side(hoping not to need them), and was trying to get tied off so the wind was blowing me off the dock. I could just walk it onto the trailer with the bow and stern lines at that point.
On my bay boat, I could just drive in on a 30ish degree angle, turn the motor toward the dock (in reverse) at the right time and be done. The pulpit and long pilings prevented this angle. By the time the back end pulled around, the house had gathered speed heading away from the dock. After a half dozen tries, I was able to fire a rope from the second station and hit a dock cleat, but there was zero margin for error, and I got lucky.
It was about 50 degrees and a perfect day to play around like this, as the place was empty. I could never make it look easy, and that is what I like to do. I sketched a little diagram. Thanks in advance!

 

[nicknotsebastian]

if i was alone and there was nobody on the dock that could grab a bow line to help tie off quick i would have opted for the dock on the down wind side of ramp.

i fish, launch, pull solo a lot at some tricky ramps. if i have any other option i will choose not to fight the wind …

(parker 2501)

 

[Deadrise36]

Hello Bodick93

"I should have pointed the tail into the wind and eased sideways to the end of the dock, stepped off with the lines, and walked the boat around the end, to be perpendicular to the wind and tie up".

That sounds like the safest most controlled approach.

I spent 22 years in the Coast Guard driving ships and boats from 22'-170' and have owned and run everything from outboard skiffs to single screw inboard 36' Deadrise workboats, sailboats from 19'-30' and can say that my 2520 XL with her shallow draft, pilothouse fwd and bracketed outboard is the most challenging of them all to handle alongside. Just got to use the conditions to your advantage (as in your example above) - these boats love to back into the wind (pivot point outboard of the transom when going astern combined with weathervane effect of the big sail up forward) fight those realities in sporty conditions and things might get exciting.
.

• Pivoting off pilings, using spring lines, a couple of good fenders, and working with the conditions should allow you to get her alongside unscathed.
• Approaching the dock as quickly as you are prepared to hit it is "usually" pretty good advice.
• If things get out of control best to just get your way off and stop jockeying the throttle

Have a great season,
John

 

[Bodick93]

This is great advice. Thank you. It it never a problem in calm conditions, but then perfect conditions are rare as well.
I didn't really think about pivoting off the pilings with the pulpit, but I will for sure put that in the tool box as a last resort, because the pile will be rubbing on bare gelcoat.
Nick, I made the "other" dock much longer than it actually is. It is not long enough to tie the boat off and still back the trailer in as deep as it needs to be with the guide poles in play. Also that is adjacent to the "beach" and folking jet ski parking so it has never been an option. I will look at that dock in a new light though next time to be sure.
I rarely go alone, but it is great to have a variety of knowledge and techniques. Spring lines are pretty foreign also (for docking, not tying off) to me. I will check them out and run down later and mess around with it. Like all you guys, I like to be squared away and make it look easy. I did not that day, for sure.

 

[Deadrise36]

"On my bay boat, I could just drive in on a 30ish degree angle, turn the motor toward the dock (in reverse) at the right time and be done. The pulpit and long pilings prevented this angle. By the time the back end pulled around, the house had gathered speed heading away from the dock"

The key here is to keep forward way on and back the stern toward the dock in short bumps without fully losing momentum or gathering sternway (kind of sliding her in sideways). Once you lose forward momentum your pivot point shifts from the area of your helm chair back to the outboard and as soon as that happens your bow is off to the races.

Take care,
John

 

[DarrellA123]

FWIW, the first line I use when docking is to the mid-ship cleat, that way neither the bow or stern get away from me. If I'm forced to tie up on the downwind side of the pier I find that a boat-hook comes in might handy for getting the line to a piling or cleat on the dock. Just my $0.02.

 

[pelagic2530]

If you have a cockpit station, one option would be to use a spring line on a boat pole if needed (they make a fitting that will hold a line). Determine the appropriate length of the spring line by measuring it out ahead of time, and make it fast to your forward midships cleat beforehand. Use the pole to drop the eye of the line over a cleat or piling on the dock. Then, you can idle forward with the engine and take tension on the line. The tension on the spring line will pull the bow into the pier, and by applying left wheel to the helm, the motor will push the stbd stern towards the pier (assuming you’re docking stbd side to the pier. Leaving the engine idling forward in this configuration will keep you essentially pinned against the pier, allowing you to make a stern line fast; after that, you’re golden.

This strategy relies on having strong dock cleats or pilings since you’ll be putting tension on them. But it’ll keep you against the pier. Works on a 224’ salvage tug!

 

[got_em_on]

It will never be perfect if by yourself with wind blowing you off the dock and also depends on tie up points on dock.

You could have a long line fixed to bow cleat or spring cleat and remainder laying in cockpit. We will call that spring line for this purpose. Stern line fixed to cleat. Approach dock bow going to ramp and get in side to. Once at dock quickly grab line running from bow cleat that is laying in cockpit and get around cleat/piling on dock(just around not tied) that is about in same area as back of pilot house and tie to stern cleat. then get stern line secured asap if possible/it may not be possible.

It may be 2 steps so get the first line secured, then jockey boat forward or back to pull stern in. Then get stern tied.

 

[knotflying]

I always have a long line (port and starboard) from bow cleat to handle at back of cabin in cockpit. I then attach a line at stern for the side I will be using up against the dock. I also find it preferable to dock at the dock that I will get pushed into by the wind. In your diagram I would have come is as you did, but would have been docking on the port side. Once at the dock I can then jump off the boat with both lines in hand and tie to the dock cleats as required.

 

[Bodick93]

The key here is to keep forward way on and back the stern toward the dock in short bumps without fully losing momentum or gathering sternway (kind of sliding her in sideways). Once you lose forward momentum your pivot point shifts from the area of your helm chair back to the outboard and as soon as that happens your bow is off to the races.

Take care,
John

Got it. That is exactly what was happening. I couldn't get too close because of the pulpit, and when I killed my forward momentum, the bow took off, like you said.
This combined with the spring line will add a good depth and more options. I can't appreciate the "sliding sideways" yet, but I will soon.
Thanks again all.

 

[edisle]

In situations like this a test away from the dock can be performed first. Using your diagram I suggest this. First with the stern into the wind determine how much throttle it takes to hold the boat stationary against the wind (use the dock as a gauge). Secure a stern line to the starboard stern cleat and a long line to the spring cleat while still away from the dock. Ease your way to the dock maneuvering in the same direction as your test. Slowly add throttle until you reach the RPM's necessary to hold the boat stationary putting your starboard stern as close to the dock as possible (You may have to step out on the bracket). Secure the stern line with enough slack that the wind will push the bracket and engine away from the dock. Reduce the engine RPM's (your home free). fully turn the motor (as if making a starboard turn) and let the motor do the work. When you get close to the dock turn the motor just enough so it holds the bow stationary When you get comfortably close grab the spring line and tie off. Of course this only works if you tie off to a good piling or a cleat on the dock that is secured properly.

 

[edisle]

Sorry I didn't specify in gear direction. After reducing reverse rpm's put the motor in forward and starboard turn to bring your starboard side next to the dock.

 

[Bodick93]

Sorry I didn't specify in gear direction. After reducing reverse rpm's put the motor in forward and starboard turn to bring your starboard side next to the dock.

Thank you. Great stuff.

 

[Bodick93]

Here is a picture of the dock in the op. Note what power loading does to ramps designed a certain way. It scours a hole and deposits the gravel backwards into a mound, causing the mound to get more and more shallow.

 

[Inshore Chaser]

Here is a picture of the dock in the op. Note what power loading does to ramps designed a certain way. It scours a hole and deposits the gravel backwards into a mound, causing the mound to get more and more shallow.

Power loading ruins many ramps. Seeing more and more ramps not allowing power loading.

 

[BBLDarkStar]

My first attempt would be a "traditional approach." Bow into the wind as much as possible
Turn to port and cut throttle as late as possible with sufficient (but not too much!) momentum to make the dock with the gunwale
Quick, full lock, turn to starboard and soft (but solid) bump in reverse (enough to stop forward momentum and swing the stern toward the dock) just before the gunwale is parallel to the dock. Part of the key is turning the wheel fast and late here, because the drive is acting as a rudder while you're sliding. Turn it too soon, and it will kill your rotation.
Cleat the starboard midships first, then jump off with the rope from the stern cleat in hand. Obviously, keep your pulpit clear of the pilings during this whole operation.

If I found the wind was too much to make the first option work, I would do the same thing, but turn to starboard instead. This is contingent on the water next to the middle of the target dock being deep enough for plenty of prop clearance. Turning to starboard would allow you to put your pulpit clear of the end of the dock during your turn so that you would be able to rotate until you're damn near parallel to the dock with the boat in gear and slide to the dock rather than needing to bump the stern over. Put the boat in neutral as soon as you know you have just enough momentum for you to come parallel to the dock and cleat it. Again, cleat the midships first.
Downside here is that you now need to drive the boat on to the trailer since you're pointed back out to sea. That doesn't mean you have to power load it, but you need to get it seated well enough in the bunks to be able to go grab your winch strap and hook the bow eye with it.

Last resort would be to approach the end of the dock finger going with the wind.
Let the wind blow you alongside the end of the finger while you're using the wheel and bumps of reverse throttle to control your approach angle and speed. Hold reverse throttle long enough to stop yourself once your starboard stern cleat is even with the end of the finger and cleat off loosely.
Let the wind swing you "around the corner" or use your throttle (very lightly) to accomplish this and get a wrap with the midships cleat.

When I was younger, I worked on a lake that was always windy in the afternoons driving an underpowered 32' long pontoon work boat with an open deck and a pilothouse on the stern. I was alone a lot of the time and had to be pretty creative docking in the wind. The key to slow speed maneuvering in the wind is very deliberate use of the throttle in both forward and reverse and maneuvering bow into the wind whenever possible.

Just like others have said, this is just my $0.02.

 

[Bodick93]

I went this morning in the same conditions. I came in with an anchor ball hanging about midway on the bow rail and a large fender on a post in the sternmost starboard rod holder. I cleated about 3 feet of line from the easternmost corner post of the dock in the photo to the starboard stern clear. Small bumps of throttle and full starboard turn brought the entire boat alongside the offset section of the dock in the photo with both fenders in the small protruding section of the dock.
I now understand the concept of which you guys spoke. Very controlled. It probably would have been tougher off the stern cleat without a bracket and the midship cleat would have been better. The length of rope needed was easier to eyeball off the stern cleat.
Thanks all, and a big lightbulb has just come on.

 

[shawnee83]

Without seeing the dock set up….. I would approach just like you drew it. Timing the last of the forward thrust before neutral in a full left turn to head towards parallel with the dock. After neutral, turn the wheel back to straight to however right you need then put in reverse to pull the stern into the dock. It’s all just timing and experience. The last trick to solve this problem, and it’s one I use all the time, mostly with a mate though. Have your fenders out and stern line ready to attach to a cleat. Aim for that cleat with the stern as I come in. You quickly head out of the house and cleat that stern line up. This is the trick, you go back into the helm and point the wheel slightly right of center and put it in forward. This will pin you to the dock and you can then get off the boat to grab your bow line, which you should have already attached and run back to the step up when you came in. I rarely actually need to leave it in gear when by myself, but it works to pull you back in after the time spent to lean over and cleat that stern line. Most of the time when I’m doing this maneuver I’m at the helm and have someone with me. The point is, cleat your stern and put it in gear to pin to the dock when you are getting blown off solo or with a crew, it a good trick when you need it. Just be damn sure about that clear and don’t do it unless you need to.

 

[shawnee83]

Power loading ruins many ramps. Seeing more and more ramps not allowing power loading.

I’ve never heard of such a thing in NC. 95% of everyone power loads at our ramps. 95% of everyone has bunk trailers. Our tide is about 3 to 4’ depending. I get what you are saying I’ve just never heard anything about not doing it. Do people use roller trailers a lot in NJ? I lived there when I was younger and not a boater.

 

[JohnC]

I took the boat (2320) for a shakedown of a new piece of electronics and the pumps on a local lake the other day. I was solo. Over the course of the next few hours the wind kicked up. You all know that the cabin catches wind much more than the cockpit end and the boat really swings. The dock has a few pilings that stick up higher than the pulpit. I couldn't chase too much with the rear due to the other dock.
I am by NO MEANS an expert, but I did not want to tie off on the upwind side while I picked up the truck and trailer, which certainly would have been easy.
In retrospect sitting here at the kitchen table, I should have pointed the tail into the wind and eased sideways to the end of the dock, stepped off with the lines, and walked the boat around the end, to be perpendicular to the wind and tie up.
Does anyone have any piloting tips (or cowboy rope tricks) to bring the boat in solo in these conditions on the downwind side? I had the fenders on the stbd side(hoping not to need them), and was trying to get tied off so the wind was blowing me off the dock. I could just walk it onto the trailer with the bow and stern lines at that point.
On my bay boat, I could just drive in on a 30ish degree angle, turn the motor toward the dock (in reverse) at the right time and be done. The pulpit and long pilings prevented this angle. By the time the back end pulled around, the house had gathered speed heading away from the dock. After a half dozen tries, I was able to fire a rope from the second station and hit a dock cleat, but there was zero margin for error, and I got lucky.
It was about 50 degrees and a perfect day to play around like this, as the place was empty. I could never make it look easy, and that is what I like to do. I sketched a little diagram. Thanks in advance!

Good morning. Not sure if I’m repeating someone else’s reply, but, I’ve owned my 2520 for 20 years now. I’ve found the quickest way to remove as much of the “sail effect” of the pilot house is to open the side and front windows fully on a windy day. Cuts the boat movement in at least 1/2. The rest is just good piling use with the thick rub rails and a quick spring line.