redoing non-skid application on deck

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iltfish

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I am new to this forum and think it is great. I have owned a 2520 MVSC since new 1999. I was hoping to get some advice on an issue with my deck. The non skid surface on my deck has worn in spots to the point of no footing and a big slip area. I am looking to redo this myself. I spoke to Eric Denton, a Parker engineer and he says that is a mix of gelcoat and non skid that gets sprayed on. I was looking to do this repair myself, but am not experienced enough with a spray gun to do this. I have seen some non skid products in the local marine stores and these appear to be applied with a roller. I was wondering if you guys have come across this issue and have any pointers or recommendations? Any input is appreciated. :?:
 
Welcome to the site.

I believe there are a couple of CP members who are going to be redoing their non-skid this winter/spring. Maybe one of them will chime in with their research and plans.
 
As Dave pointed out, there's a few of us here and who also know and fish with each other on the FFSW.com board who are re-doing our decks.

I will be using gelcoat and non-skid grit, like grip-tex sold by interlux for its 2-part linear polyurethane paint. I will sat with gelcoat in case I ever need to re-do an area. I will also not spray it, but will roll it on, then sprinkle on some grit, let it kick, then roll on some more, sprinkle some more, and then a final thinned topcoat.

I am still doing research on the 'best' DIY way and will advise on my method and will include resources. I did find a gelcoat place that will sell me a gallon color matched to my Parker gelcoat for $60/gallon.
 
John Greviskis of "Ship Shape TV" did an episode on this. I don't know if the episodes are able to be viewed via internet archive, but it was pretty good.

He rolled his on by hand. He very carefully taped off, with paper and blue painter's tape, all the hatch covers and applied plastic up the gunwales to protect from splatter. The non-skid media was mixed with the paint (don't recall what he used) and before he put it on the deck, he rolled the roller on a piece of plywood to disperse and unclump the nonskid media that was on the roller. He then took the paint from the wood to roll onto the deck. He constantly agitated the paint in the roller tray as well. On TV the deck looked good. Who knows what it looked like up close.

Maybe it'll air again if you get lucky. If you have DirecTV, look for it on one of the many FoxSports stations you get form around the country. He's on about 20 times in a weekend.
 
Dan:

Thanks for posting those details, I may just try the 2-part linear polyurethane.

Dale
 
When i was a Coastie, we would tape out the area, roll on a coat of paint, toss sand on the wet paint and leave it on for a day. Next day we would brush off the sand that did not stick to the paint, thin out (50/50 paint/thinner) what ever color you wanted the non-skid to be, put a coat of that on and remove the tape. seems like it would pretty much last forever.

Don't know if i'd do that now, just a bit of reminescing. 8)
 
I had to laugh at the typo in your thread title: "redoing non kid application on deck". I can think of a variety of wise-guy responses, but will leave them to your imagination. :twisted:
 
I just redid the nonskid on my 18 Parker and I used the Durabak18 and it is fantastic. The nonskid is almost a dead on match of the nonskid Parker is using now. It comes in various colors and we chose the Ligth Grey as we are redoing the hull and we have already had her Awlgripped in Carolina Blue.

Look on Ebay for it and do a search on the web for lots of info on this product. It is a polyurethane based product so once it is on, it won't be coming off. Good thing is you can touch it up if need be.

Give me an email and I will send you some pics of the floor, as we replaced the factory fuel tank and then redid the floor before we put down the new console and Command Center Leaning Post/Livewll combo.
Have not done pics on this site yet but will check it out as I do them routinely on The Hull Truth, so I might be able to post some here later.
 

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Hello all,

I just got a 2006, 2820 a few months ago and just put on a new non skid deck. Although, the deck had just been painting by her previous owner the deck had no grip and was like a slip and slide it looked great but, not safe at all. I got on the internet and came across a product called KIWI GRIP. So far so good, I bought a small can of the stuff to try out and was happy, the only thing was the cream color I got was a bit off from the parker color (They say you can just buy white and match the paint color). I ended up buying a gallon of the stuff and put in on. Like i said so far so good, very easy to apply. Just don't do it when it's to hot.
 
I have seen some people who have done their Non-Skid using Linex brand,same thing as used on truck bed liners but not as abresive,comes in many colors or can be matched to OEM Parker color,its bullet proof and you can drop a hammer on it and it wont chip.

Years ago did a friends Dusky,used Awlgrip and sprinkled the sand,Basicly same as what Dale explained,paint first,with industrial salt shaker spread the sand,let it dry and come back with very light coat of final awlgrip (no sand)

Robert
 
The non-skid on Big duck wasn't all that bad but my dog still wasn't able to get traction. I laid down some Seadeck http://www.seadek.com/ . It's expensive but not only gets the job done for Merlin, but it's sooo nice on the feet and knees.

Before:
Merstep.jpg


After:
seadeckMer.jpg
 
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