Repowering

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OPScott

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Feb 27, 2006
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Location
Ocean Pines MD
Hello Parker Fans-
I have an 1801 center console and I am thinking about repowering. The old motor is a Yamaha 90hp 2-stroke. Its been a very reliable motor, with heavy use, other than some bothersome rust problems. (Shift shaft, hydraulics, etc.)

Anybody had any experience with the E-tec motors? They sound great if you listen to the salesmen. Lighter weight and cheaper than 4-strokes, good gas mileage, low emissions, quiet, etc.

The cheaper way out is to get another yamaha 2-stroke for < $5k, and use the old controls.

Any suggestions?
Thanks-
 
How much for an E-tec? Do you need more range? While I love what I have read and heard (quiet0 about the etec... I think at 90hp the economy would not make up for the cost to just repower with the Yammie. A great price with the rigging could prove me wrong though.
 
Something else to consider... Depending on the age of your Yammie, it might not be an option to keep the older gages and controls as the newer motors are using more and more in the way of electronic controls with different wiring harnesses.

Again, it depends on the age of your components, but depending on which motor that you pick, you may have no choice but to replace the controls even if you do stick with Yamaha.

That said, you might want to consider one of the 115's as many of the 90's and 115's share the same block - hence the same amount of weight on the transom. If you need to replace the controls too, your brand options clearly open. The good news is that there are a lot of good motors out there to choose from.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the replies.

The price for the E-tec is $6819, plus $1500 for rigging. Gauges are not included. (?)

The Yamaha 90 appears to be the exact same as my old motor. I have the digital gauges, so I assume they will still work, but its a good idea to make sure. Rigging for the yammie is $660, and I can get a 2005 for around $5k.

I guess the E-tec will save gas in the long run, but its hard to know how long it will take to break even on that.

Maybe its too early to get much feedback on the E-tecs. Its a risk, I know, but they are offering a 6 year warranty special in March, so that is tempting.
 
I run a 24ft. Privateer that we charter , as well as my parker.
Last year the Privateer got a new 225 e/tec, had a merc optimax
The e/tec is AWESOME !
 
Capt. Ronnie":65dl4lag said:
The e/tec is AWESOME !

That seems to be a re-occuring opinion from people who have repowered with the E-Tec.
Anybody know if they have plans for a 300 anytime in the future? :)
 
Megabyte":3844xc04 said:
Capt. Ronnie":3844xc04 said:
The e/tec is AWESOME !

That seems to be a re-occuring opinion from people who have repowered with the E-Tec.
Anybody know if they have plans for a 300 anytime in the future? :)

Just as quiet as my 4stroke,
but much quicker out of the hole.
A bit better on gas also !!!
 
Correction- My old motor is a 1991- my old signature said 2001. I don't want to give the impression the yammie was only good for 5 years!

Actually it still runs well, despite lots of rust. I just figured if I am going to replace it I might as well do it now.
 
Well, I finally did it- I repowered. I got a deal on a new 90 hp Yamaha, 2-stroke, just like what I had originally. I took the safe way out, and also the cheapest. It runs just like the old motor, with the old prop on there, but I picked up about 1 mph, now I am up to 34 mph @ 4700 rpm.

I am thinking now about getting a new prop to replace the old alum. Maybe treat myself to a ss prop? Other choices are black steel or a composite prop, if I could find one to fit.

I am happy with the performance of the current prop. My only complaint about the motor/prop is the fuel economy- seems like I am only getting around 3 mpg, on average, with the old motor.

Any advice on a prop? I am wondering about the black steel- I guess its cheaper than ss? But I guess the disadvantage is rust? Does it need to be repainted regularly?

Thanks in advance-
Scott
 
If you repower, recommend you go with new gauges and rigging. Sell the old gauges and rigging with the old motor. In general, guages and rigging should go with the motor. Often, they are not compatible between year groups.
 
Porkchunker":1uh9kw2s said:
If you repower, recommend you go with new gauges and rigging. Sell the old gauges and rigging with the old motor. In general, guages and rigging should go with the motor. Often, they are not compatible between year groups.

Yes, I did replace the one gauge, the tach/oil level/tilt gauge. They told me the old one wouldn't work right. I kept the old speed/gas level guage, and it seems to work fine.

Any advice on a prop? SS vs. black steel vs. plastic?

The saleman at Short's actually advised me against a ss prop, saying it is too heavy for my motor! Is that good advice?
 
OPScott":1tzxhi62 said:
The saleman at Short's actually advised me against a ss prop, saying it is too heavy for my motor! Is that good advice?

"The salesman at Shorts" is wrong. Where do they get this 'information'? :evil:

You have several options... Aluminum is a good prop to have if the area you boat in is shallow or rocky. Aluminum props will bend and 'give' when struck, many times saving your lower unit, while sacrificing the prop. Aluminum is a good bit cheaper than stainless as well. Do not even consider plastic unless it is for an emergency "get home" spare.

Stainless props (either black painted or polished stainless) have the advantage of being stiffer, and resisting deflection which generally results in better performance. Understand though that 'better performance' is sometimes measured in small increments, and isn't always a given. The increase in performance with a stainless wheel might not be worth 3x the cost of an aluminum prop, but that is a personal decision.

Since stainless is a stiffer material, the downside is that there is a greater probability of lower unit damage if you strike something hard (like a rock).

As with many things boating related... your mileage may vary. :wink:
 
OP,

I'm thinking of re-powering mine in the near future.
It's a 99 18' SE with the same power, (yammie 90hp 2stroke)

Was wondering why you didn't go with more HP?
Cost vs performance?

Thanks
 
Yes, Shorts in DE. I agree with you- the only thing good was the price- I got the Labor Day "cash price". Other than that- well, you know...

I may not have your same hull, Pucker. They have made some changes over the years- I Know the current 18's have taller gunnels than mine, and need a longer shaft length for example. I was getting 33 mph with my previous yam 90, which is plenty of speed for my needs. I was using a 13 x 15 alum prop.
 
OPScott":3t91aug9 said:
Well, I finally did it- I repowered. I got a deal on a new 90 hp Yamaha, 2-stroke, just like what I had originally. I took the safe way out, and also the cheapest.
Scott


The're are many of us, including Linwood Parker, that buying a Yamaha is also the smartest way out ! :wink:
 
Did you say you were only reaching 4700 rpms? What is the max rpm range of the motor? You may be over propped. I believe you should be getting close to 5500.

For future reference, if you would consider a Mercury you may want to try Almar's in DE. They treated me well and Jack (one of the owners) was very honest and upfront with me. They are one of the largest Merc dealers on the east coast and offer better pricing than ed's without salestax.
 
I can vouch for Almar's as well. Bought a 150 Merc from them for my old Grady. They worked with me as much as possible to keep the cost down (I did most of the install my self). I'de definitely buy from them again.
 
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