Thinking about adding autopilot

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Nwimbish

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Wanting to add autopilot. I'm a Garmin guy and have units that will work with Garmin autopilot. I have a 07 2320 with a single Yamaha 250. Has anyone tried the Garmin Compact Reactor40 - Hydraulic Autopilot - Starter Pack. Would this work for my application? Looking for help on this subject. Thanks in advance.
 

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From the Garmin Compact Reactor 40 Hydraulic Autopilot Starter Pack product page:

“ 2 Not recommended for fishing or applications that require holding heading while trolling at low speeds or operating in rough waters. For applications that require precise heading control, our higher-performance Reactor 40 models are recommended. Compact Reactor uses a gear pump design with limited performance relative to similar flow piston pumps. Not recommended for power assist installs, engines above 150 horsepower or boats with more than 12-degree deadrises.”

Sounds like you’d probably want to go with a package that has a larger capacity pump.
 
Wanting to add autopilot. I'm a Garmin guy and have units that will work with Garmin autopilot. I have a 07 2320 with a single Yamaha 250. Has anyone tried the Garmin Compact Reactor40 - Hydraulic Autopilot - Starter Pack. Would this work for my application? Looking for help on this subject. Thanks in advance.
On sale now, will interface via nmea 2000 with your garmin. Excellent price on the best small boat AP on the market.

https://www.thegpsstore.com/Brands/...nJR7eVulLCTf-rg0zFRdmwji-MGThQtBoCprsQAvD_BwE
 
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Auto pilots are so much nicer. When doing a longer run, trolling or leaving the wheel for a moment to gaff or net a fish.

I often run 40-60 miles and AP just makes it so much more enjoyable and efficient.

My system is Garmin. I choose the V2 Pump. It’s performed flawlessly for a little over 2 years.

My research found the V2 pump to be the most reliable and robust in the Garmin line.

No real experience with the other brands. But if Garmin is on your list I would recommend V2 and Reactor 40 combo.
 
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Whatever model you choose stay with Garmin. My experience is that once you go with different brands and components and an issue arises you start to get finger pointing between manufacturers. I also suggest that along with AP you install the shadow drive. The shadow drive allows you to just turn the wheel to deviate from the AP course. I found this helpful and a safety feature in the event there is a quick turn needed to make in the event of a sudden obstacle.
 
Whatever model you choose stay with Garmin. My experience is that once you go with different brands and components and an issue arises you start to get finger pointing between manufacturers. I also suggest that along with AP you install the shadow drive. The shadow drive allows you to just turn the wheel to deviate from the AP course. I found this helpful and a safety feature in the event there is a quick turn needed to make in the event of a sudden obstacle.
I give a vote to leave the shadow drive in the box. It caused nothing but problems with my Garmin AP. It's also one less hose to buy.
 
I give a vote to leave the shadow drive in the box. It caused nothing but problems with my Garmin AP. It's also one less hose to buy.
Yes, unless it is installed properly it can be an issue. The location and mounting are critical to proper operation.
 
I’m not entirely sure the Shadow Drive is worth it. All it is, is a replacement for not having to hit the “STBY” button on the autopilot control (which, as an aside, is why I always recommend having a dedicated AP control unit- much easier access to enable/disable the AP than having to go through a MFD). It seems like, given an experienced and attentive helmsman, the Shadow Drive offers little benefit for a lot of potential extra failure points.
 
Whatever model you choose stay with Garmin. My experience is that once you go with different brands and components and an issue arises you start to get finger pointing between manufacturers. I also suggest that along with AP you install the shadow drive. The shadow drive allows you to just turn the wheel to deviate from the AP course. I found this helpful and a safety feature in the event there is a quick turn needed to make in the event of a sudden obstacle.

I’ll concur with the single manufacturer sentiment. Additionally, while most manufacturers’ products will WORK with others through the NMEA2K network (because they’re required to) the interface between different MFRs equipment can be cumbersome. I’d imagine this is intentional; Garmin doesn’t WANT you to be able to easily run a Raymarine AP with their MFDs, they want you to buy a Garmin AP.

The Raymarine AP unit will get all of the required information from your Garmin units (COG, SOG, position, time, etc.) but I can’t speak as to how seamlessly you’ll be able to use one with the other. Selecting a waypoint on the Garmin MFD and having the AP automatically pick it up and navigate to it; engaging turns or hold patterns around a temporary waypoint on the Garmin, etc. These are all features that, if installed correctly, should work perfectly between units of the same manufacturer.

Also, from a customer support perspective, you’re going to have to figure out a lot of stuff on your own if you run into issues. Neither MFR is going to help troubleshoot the other’s side of the system. This also goes for software updates; you’re going to have to do each individually, whereas with one MFRs gear you can usually push updates from the MFD (often WiFi enabled) to other networked system components such as AP controllers and computers.
 
I’m not entirely sure the Shadow Drive is worth it. All it is, is a replacement for not having to hit the “STBY” button on the autopilot control (which, as an aside, is why I always recommend having a dedicated AP control unit- much easier access to enable/disable the AP than having to go through a MFD). It seems like, given an experienced and attentive helmsman, the Shadow Drive offers little benefit for a lot of potential extra failure points.

I would agree for the most part.

But when leaving the harbor, set the AP course, nice to be able to dodge crab pot bouys, debris in the water, etc with out messing with your electronics.

But realistically a minor convenience.
 
Yes, unless it is installed properly it can be an issue. The location and mounting are critical to proper operation.
It was mounted as per the instructions with 3' of hose between it and any other rigid connection, perfectly horizontal and the gain was moved all around. It would trip the system into "Heading Hold" especially when the A/P was turning to follow a course in "Auto Nav." I found it more dangerous to use because it would go to heading hold in a turn which could put you in the marsh or worse. Garmin Support felt it was a bad unit and offered to replace it. Instead, I keep my hand on the remote (which is mounted next to my binnacle) so I can hit the "Stand by" button or use the the turn buttons if needed.IMG_0704.JPG
 
I originally thought and bought the starter pack for my 21Se. Before I got to installing, I read more reviews and backed up. I returned it and ordered up the V2 Smartpump. But once , cry once as I’ve heard over and over. It may be a bit of overkill for such a small platform, but damn I’m impressed. Dont know how I ran without it. I fish a lot alone, and I set my route out of harbor and it affords me time to cut bait, tie rigs while doing 5mph and maintain a lookout. Unit does well trolling low speed live baits (2mph) where the lesser unit reviews showed failure. I run a lot at night and having the AP affords you the luxury of watching instruments/radar more closely. I also fish into December here in Rhode Island, and wow is it great not holding onto the stainless wheel the whole ride home. Only time I touch the wheel is when I dock the boat to sell fish, and docking to put the boat back on the trailer. I installed the shadow drive as per instructions and works flawlessly when I come upon debris or buoys.
 
I’m not entirely sure the Shadow Drive is worth it. All it is, is a replacement for not having to hit the “STBY” button on the autopilot control (which, as an aside, is why I always recommend having a dedicated AP control unit- much easier access to enable/disable the AP than having to go through a MFD). It seems like, given an experienced and attentive helmsman, the Shadow Drive offers little benefit for a lot of potential extra failure points.
I have cruised over 9,500 nautical miles. All I can say it can be a split second difference between being okay and running into something. Of course speed makes a difference. When at the helm and something is coming at you the natural instinct is to turn immediately, not taking your eyes away from outside, push a disengage button, and then turn.
 
On sale now, will interface via nmea 2000 with your garmin. Excellent price on the best small boat AP on the market.

https://www.thegpsstore.com/Brands/...nJR7eVulLCTf-rg0zFRdmwji-MGThQtBoCprsQAvD_BwE
Has anyone tried this unit with Garmin Mfds? Looking for a review on it. I've read that other have posted. I can seem everyone one concern. However I'd like to save money if buying one. Don't think I can swing the price for the reactor 40 and smart pump.

Am I wasting money if I chose the raymarine?
 
Once you have AP you will probably never own another boat without it. I had mine installed when I bought the boat in 2015. At the time I bought the Garmin package which included the Compass ball and 1.2 liter pump, shadow Drive and GHP 20. After 3 years and couple months the pump crapped out but Garmin warrantied it anyway and sent a new pump. This season the Compass ball failed and upgraded to Reactor 40. I troll a lot for tuna and stripers and can't live without it. I never had an issue with shadow Drive and is a great feature, it has worked well on my 2015 2520xld and then yami 300 and now suzuki 300.
 
Mpellet, I’m curious as to why you consider the Raymarine to be the “best” small boat AP out there? From the rankings I can find online, there’s no clear winner; what makes this one so outstanding in your opinion?
A mix of my anecdotal but extensive personal experience operating the system, relative ease of self installing and probably more time participating in boating forums then I should. I can’t even count how many threads that I’ve read with guys trying to chase down problems with garmin & simrad APs. Raymarine Evolution Series, there are almost no problems ever reported and more fan boys of their Evolution APs then all the others combined.

I installed a Raymarine Evolution EV-200 linked with a Raymarine a series plotter and a wireless controller in the Spring of 2014. I have nine full seasons and over 2000 hours operating time on it. I typically put on 12-14 engine hours per trip. I might hand steer the boat 15 minutes all day. Sometimes I tuna fish solo and I can only do this alone by having the ability to make heading adjustments from the cockpit with the wireless remote. The system just flat out works and if it broke tomorrow I’d replace it with the identical system the next day. It’s kinda funny the little knob on my autopilot controller has seen so much action that the rubber pad on it wore out. The system has been perfect for me and again, based on plenty of time spent surfing boat autopilot threads on other boating forums, I know my satisfaction is level is common amongst Raymarine Evolution Autopilot owners.

When I installed my system the Raymarine Evolution 150 had not been released so I went bigger but it’s perfect size for a Parker Pilot House and at that price a ridiculously good buy.

At the end of the day, all of the above is my OPINION and sharing opinion is what these forums are about, now you have my opinion regarding autopilots 😂.
 

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