Time to Change the Engine Oil ...... Oil Guys

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GoodChance

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mobil-1-product-guide-rev-31.pdf

Many people like to run an oil with high Zinc and Phosphorus (anti-friction/anti-wear properties). Since 1994, with EPA mandates and evolution of catalytic converters, Zinc and Phosphorus levels in oil have dropped significantly

Attached above is a good summary of Mobil 1 oils and contents of each product. Mobil 1 15-50w seems to be a great oil and available at most locations for $25 for 5 quart-jug.

For reference, Rotella 15w-40 (a diesel oil but one that also meets outboard engine requirements) also has high amounts of Zn and Ph at 1200 and 1100ppm respectfully. And available for about $10-15/gallon.

This season, I'm going to run Mobil 1 15w-50 in one engine and Rotella in the other to see if there is any difference in oil consumption, wear, carbon accumulation, or WOT. It will be an unscientific look-see but will be interesting. I typically put 200 hours on an engine each year so lets see what the F225's look like in August.
 
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warthog5

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Amsoil Marine....... What do you get in a specific "Marine oil" The anticorrosion package.....VERY Important!

 

GoodChance

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That's only $65 to change the oil vs Mobil 1 at $25. Mobil has a lot of skin in the game. Amsoil does too ..... but not nearly the volumes as Mobil.

Anti-corrosion? Isn't that what all oil does? I've never heard of an engine failing due to internal corrosion.
 

warthog5

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Anti-corrosion? Isn't that what all oil does? I've never heard of an engine failing due to internal corrosion.

Nope...The anticorrosion is a added package......Noted by the the code FC-W

Watch the Vid.....and learn [specifically that corrosion shot]


While Mobil 1 is a good synthetic oil.....It is NOT , nor do they make a oil designed for Marine environment.

Amsoil does make Marine oil....They make it in 3 different weights.

The 25w40 is a Synthetic Blend......Synthetic Blend means a thimble of synthetic in a Qt of dino oil qualifies as a Synthetic Blend. The 25w40 is called for in Merc's. But I want you to note the OEM Suzuki oil...It's a Synthetic BLEND.
Yamaha oil is Dino oil.
 
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K/A

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I use amsoil in my caterpillar I like it less emissions faster start up
 

1721SE

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Nope...The anticorrosion is a added package......Noted by the the code FC-W

Watch the Vid.....and learn [specifically that corrosion shot]


While Mobil 1 is a good synthetic oil.....It is NOT , nor do they make a oil designed for Marine environment.

Amsoil does make Marine oil....They make it in 3 different weights.

The 25w40 is a Synthetic Blend......Synthetic Blend means a thimble of synthetic in a Qt of dino oil qualifies as a Synthetic Blend. The 25w40 is called for in Merc's. But I want you to note the OEM Suzuki oil...It's a Synthetic BLEND.
Yamaha oil is Dino oil.

All modern motor oils contain anti corrosion additives. FC-W means the oils are approved for use by the NMMA.
Oils that do not carry the FC-W (Four stroke cycle, water-cooled) still have additive packages to prevent corrosion among other things.
I have had very good results using Rotella T6 5w40. A stout, heavy duty, synthetic oil.
 

warthog5

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Just made a Amsoil order today :)

Rotella T6 5w40. A stout, heavy duty, synthetic oil.

But NOT a oil designed for Marine use.

API: CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4 ACEA E9, JASO DH-2, Cummins CES 20086; Volvo VDS-4.5; Detroit Fluid Specification DDC (DFS) 93K222, Caterpillar ECF-2/ECF-3, MAN M3575, JASO MA/ MA2, Allison TES 439, MB-Approval 228.31

 

GoodChance

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If it makes you feel good spending extra $$ on "marine oil" then that's exactly what you should do.

The truth of the matter, is that you will never see any difference in wear/tear on your F300 engine using Walmart-brand oil vs Amsoil as long as you change it every 100 hours.

Engine don't wear out because of oil choice.
 

Roll Tide

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This season, I'm going to run Mobil 1 15w-50 in one engine and Rotella in the other to see if there is any difference in oil consumption, wear, carbon accumulation, or WOT. It will be an unscientific look-see but will be interesting
You should send a sample of each at the end of the season to Blackstone for testing..
 

Stank Bait

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So you send in a sample and find your chromium copper or lead zinc or what ever metal is out of bounds are you going to rip your engine apart to find out why?

Me just do required maintenance and run it

It not an airplane or space shuttle
 

sydngoose

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About 4 weeks ago, I bought my son a used Honda TRX90 four wheeler. As I do with all my used motors I buy, I serviced it immediately, then put her to use. I used Mobile 1 synthetic 4 stroke oil. My son did one lap with the 4 wheeler and came up to me " dad, this seems hard to shift". Hmmmm... Let me do a lap. Yup, shifting was hard.
I pull up the owners manual on my phone, read about the common oil sump for both the motor and the clutch, one reservoir, one fluid for both.
So, Honda has formulated a motor oil with additives to lubricate the clutch as well as the motor.
I ran out, bought a quart of Honda GN4, dumped the Mobile1, replaced with Honda, tightened her down, and ran her: smooth as silk....
SO, the moral of the story is not all oils are created equal. In my Mercury motors, I run Mercury quicksilver oil. In my yamaha motors I run yamalube. In my fourwheelers and jet skis, Polaris ranger: they all get manufacturer specific oil.
The one time I vary from my technique ( the honda four wheeler), I get bit in the but.... I'm just going to stick to than manufacturer's oil...can't hurt....
 

knotflying

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Funny how we always look to save a buck on oil and lubrication. My thinking is since I am doing the service myself and saving money go for the recommended product and bit the bullet on cost. Amsoil marine oil was mentioned on this thread. They actually have a good reputation and if I am not mistaken they were one of the oil manufacturers on the forefront with synthetic oils.
 

Roll Tide

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So you send in a sample and find your chromium copper or lead zinc or what ever metal is out of bounds are you going to rip your engine apart to find out why?

Me just do required maintenance and run it

It not an airplane or space shuttle
He's comparing two different oils. The testing tells a lot about oil quality.
 

Andy

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About 4 weeks ago, I bought my son a used Honda TRX90 four wheeler. As I do with all my used motors I buy, I serviced it immediately, then put her to use. I used Mobile 1 synthetic 4 stroke oil. My son did one lap with the 4 wheeler and came up to me " dad, this seems hard to shift". Hmmmm... Let me do a lap. Yup, shifting was hard.
I pull up the owners manual on my phone, read about the common oil sump for both the motor and the clutch, one reservoir, one fluid for both.
So, Honda has formulated a motor oil with additives to lubricate the clutch as well as the motor.
I ran out, bought a quart of Honda GN4, dumped the Mobile1, replaced with Honda, tightened her down, and ran her: smooth as silk....
SO, the moral of the story is not all oils are created equal. In my Mercury motors, I run Mercury quicksilver oil. In my yamaha motors I run yamalube. In my fourwheelers and jet skis, Polaris ranger: they all get manufacturer specific oil.
The one time I vary from my technique ( the honda four wheeler), I get bit in the but.... I'm just going to stick to than manufacturer's oil...can't hurt....
I'm sorry, but I have to disagree with you on this one. You did not get bit in the 'but', you got bit in the Butt!-... I just can't help myself sometimes....
(I'll be sorry I posted this, tomorrow morning! ☺)
 
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dcunniff

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I used to give my boat mechanic the oil, filter, fuel filter, etc., when he did the winterizing. A few years ago I stopped as it was hard to get straight 30 oil for the Volvo engine. He puts the oil in that makes sense.

About 10 years ago I started putting Archoil oil treatment in a 6.0 diesel Ford. Was good stuff. I slowly started putting it small engines around the house, automobiles and now a gas truck. So I have been putting it in the boat after the mechanic does the winterizing. Archoil AR 9100. AR9100 Oil Additive | Archoil
 
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