Trolling Motor Add

Classic Parker

Help Support Classic Parker:

MartyL

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
Messages
23
Reaction score
4
Location
Boston
rseate, thank you very much for the offer; I will do that. I have 4 more weeks till my Rhodan is ready so I've been trying to get stuff done ahead of time if I can.

All I have done so far is to route the 6awg wire from the center console to the anchor locker. I don't want to use toggle bolts for the mount, the only thing I can think of so far is to maybe cut an opening in that vertical wall at the bow that is the back of the anchor locker(I have an open bow). I have that question in at Parker now to see what they have to say about cutting it.
 

Key Largo

Active member
Joined
Feb 7, 2021
Messages
34
Reaction score
7
Rigged & Ready
Holden Beach, NC
My friend ordered a 96 inch one for his 30 ft Ocean Master last month from the vendor you hooked us up with , used it for the first time today in 1.5 knot current 1.5 ft sea in 100ft. It was terrific, he is sorry he bought a windless last year. I am considering one now. Some what concerned about the durability.
 

pelagic2530

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
1,307
Reaction score
135
Location
Indian River, DE / Norfolk, VA
rseate, thank you very much for the offer; I will do that. I have 4 more weeks till my Rhodan is ready so I've been trying to get stuff done ahead of time if I can.

All I have done so far is to route the 6awg wire from the center console to the anchor locker. I don't want to use toggle bolts for the mount, the only thing I can think of so far is to maybe cut an opening in that vertical wall at the bow that is the back of the anchor locker(I have an open bow). I have that question in at Parker now to see what they have to say about cutting it.
Marty, if you do decide to cut a hatch into the forward vertical bulkhead, you probably won't be sorry about it. It gives great access to the inside of that compartment. Between that and cutting a circular access plate in the bow, I'd definitely opt for the hatch. Much better utility than the pie plate.

I did an install of a custom hatch in that space as a replacement for my original one (I don't have the anchor locker hatch on the top of the locker). All you'd need would be a rectangular hatch for access, but this might give you an idea of what the process looks like: 1997 1700 Overhaul Project
 

rseate

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2020
Messages
144
Reaction score
42
Location
Wrightsville Beach, NC
My friend ordered a 96 inch one for his 30 ft Ocean Master last month from the vendor you hooked us up with , used it for the first time today in 1.5 knot current 1.5 ft sea in 100ft. It was terrific, he is sorry he bought a windless last year. I am considering one now. Some what concerned about the durability.
Glad to hear it worked out! There are three boats with Rhodan motors on them where my boat is stored that I know are at least 2 years old. All three of the owners swear by them.
 

MartyL

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
Messages
23
Reaction score
4
Location
Boston
Pelagic, thanks for the pointer. Nice job with the boat.. What you did at the bow wall is exactly what I was thinking about, your looks excellent. I sent an email to Parker asking but do you know if there are any structural issues with cutting a hole there? There are 2 L brackets screwed into the top of the wall that are connect behind the gunnel lip. I assume they are more to brace the wall than support the gunnel? How did you decide how big you could make the opening? Did you just cut the panel with a sabre saw?
 

MartyL

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
Messages
23
Reaction score
4
Location
Boston
I'm not sure of proper etiquette here..should I be starting a new thread for this issue of mine?
 

pelagic2530

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
1,307
Reaction score
135
Location
Indian River, DE / Norfolk, VA
Pelagic, thanks for the pointer. Nice job with the boat.. What you did at the bow wall is exactly what I was thinking about, your looks excellent. I sent an email to Parker asking but do you know if there are any structural issues with cutting a hole there? There are 2 L brackets screwed into the top of the wall that are connect behind the gunnel lip. I assume they are more to brace the wall than support the gunnel? How did you decide how big you could make the opening? Did you just cut the panel with a sabre saw?
There was already a smaller hatch there, so I didn't worry too much about increasing the size of the cutout. It's a pretty common place for a hatch, and I've yet to see any issues related to that. I'm fairly certain that bulkhead is there just to create the anchor locker space, not for any significant structural purpose. And even if it serves as a stiffener, the frame of the bulkhead is still there; losing the center component shouldn't compromise the overall structure too much. At least, that's the common philosophy in steel shipbuilding. Long story short; I went for it and figured it'd be ok. Probably not the scientific answer you were looking for, but that's what I got.

I have the L-brackets as well, my thought is that they serve to tie the deck into the bulkhead for a bit more support. On my boat, that area of the deck isn't cored, it's just a fiberglass skin that's about 1/4" thick. There's one stiffener running athwartships right around the middle, but otherwise I think it might move a bit unless supported at the aft end. It's also not a high load area, so again, I'm not concerned about the integrity of the bulkhead.

The hatch was a custom size that was built specifically for my application; I needed something with enough clearance for the size of the anchor I use. I measured what I thought would make sense and had them design it from that. If you've got the anchor locker hatch on top of the locker and can stow/access your anchor through there, there really isn't a reason you need the custom rhombus hatch like I have. Just pick a rectangular one that will fit in the size you have to work with. Cutout was done by drilling strategic holes and cutting the rest with a cordless jigsaw.
 

DanLovingood

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Messages
90
Reaction score
68
Location
Chuckatuck Creek, Suffolk, VA
There was already a smaller hatch there, so I didn't worry too much about increasing the size of the cutout. It's a pretty common place for a hatch, and I've yet to see any issues related to that. I'm fairly certain that bulkhead is there just to create the anchor locker space, not for any significant structural purpose. And even if it serves as a stiffener, the frame of the bulkhead is still there; losing the center component shouldn't compromise the overall structure too much. At least, that's the common philosophy in steel shipbuilding. Long story short; I went for it and figured it'd be ok. Probably not the scientific answer you were looking for, but that's what I got.

I have the L-brackets as well, my thought is that they serve to tie the deck into the bulkhead for a bit more support. On my boat, that area of the deck isn't cored, it's just a fiberglass skin that's about 1/4" thick. There's one stiffener running athwartships right around the middle, but otherwise I think it might move a bit unless supported at the aft end. It's also not a high load area, so again, I'm not concerned about the integrity of the bulkhead.

The hatch was a custom size that was built specifically for my application; I needed something with enough clearance for the size of the anchor I use. I measured what I thought would make sense and had them design it from that. If you've got the anchor locker hatch on top of the locker and can stow/access your anchor through there, there really isn't a reason you need the custom rhombus hatch like I have. Just pick a rectangular one that will fit in the size you have to work with. Cutout was done by drilling strategic holes and cutting the rest with a cordless jigsaw.
pelagic,

That's not a rhombus hatch...its a trapezoid hatch! I'm paying attention whle homeschooling my granddaughter fourth grade math!

Cap'n Dan
 

MartyL

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
Messages
23
Reaction score
4
Location
Boston
I'm moving this answer to a previous thread I had created that asked how to do this.
 
Last edited:

MartyL

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
Messages
23
Reaction score
4
Location
Boston
Rseate,
Did that battery tray come with that battery? Did you screw it to the decking? Have you had a chance to use the trolling motor yet? How do you like the 50A? What type warranty did it come with? Thanks.
 

rseate

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2020
Messages
144
Reaction score
42
Location
Wrightsville Beach, NC
Rseate,
Did that battery tray come with that battery? Did you screw it to the decking? Have you had a chance to use the trolling motor yet? How do you like the 50A? What type warranty did it come with? Thanks.
Yes, it & the hold down strap game with the battery.
I did screw it down to the decking with some 4200 under it.
I have not had a chance to use it yet. We're starting our marlin tournament season next week and won't be back down to the boat to use it for a few weeks. I have two other friends with the same battery & trolling motors (theirs are 96" shaft while mine is an 84" shaft) on their boats (27 Onslow Bay & 25 Grady White) and they swear by them. They told me they've had plenty of battery life for a normal days fishing. Obviously rough seas and a strong current can make the motor work harder and can shorten the day.
5 year warranty. Another reason I went with this battery is the distributor is located in Mooresville, NC. We have an office about 45 minutes from there so if I have an issue I can swing by their physical location.
 

Latest posts

Top