Trolling Motor on 25XX or 23XX Pilothouse?

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Here’s some pics of my install on my Armstrong bracket.
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warthog5":h3wha1g4 said:
Rereading on this thread.....I came across something interesting.

Pete has his motor mounted on the side like that because he is a Humminbird and Minn Kota pro staffer

I have a 12 X 40 RV shelter where I work on boats...It is covered above that by a Large oak tree.


Recently I had a 18ft skiff with a Hummingbird & Minkotta setup come in. The job was other stuff.

But what I noticed was the Hummingbird would NOT lock in until moved out from under the shelter.

Every Garmin and Simrad has locked in under there quick and acurate to within 9ft.

Some people actually use a trolling motor to troll, not to anchor. Store your tracks, troll the same shoreline over and over, etc.

So I asked the owner......"So what made you go with a Hummingbird?"

He said "Their the only ones that interface with the Minkotta."


I just nodded my head. :)




What the Hell do you need that for?


You motor to your spot......Looking at your MFD chartplotter.......The wreck pops up on the screen of the Sonar.

Deploy Minkotta and hit Anchor/Spot Lock.....Start fishing. :)

Some people actually use a trolling motor to troll, not to anchor. Store your tracks, troll the same shoreline over and over, etc.
 
Unintended consequences! Now that my boat is in the water for the season, it seems that the weight of the motor plus 210 lbs. of batteries in the forward berth prevent the cockpit from draining properly. A full tank of gas is not enough to correct the problem. Back to the drawing board.....
 
It’s expensive but you can get a lithium ion 36 volt battery that takes up the same space as one 31 group battery and only weighs 30 lbs. They’re also supposed to charge quicker, hold a longer charge and last longer.


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On the pix above.....Showing the cabling..... Bare Copper Battery lug ends have no place on a boat.

They will corrode like crazy and cause High resistance.

You want "Tinned Copper" lug ends.

I see the bare ones all the time.....and Oh what a mess.
 
I was thinking the same thing, but was following someone else’s parts list that was listed in a forum.

I did leave enough slack in case I have to swap them out but in the meantime I have them completely coated with dielectric grease. Do you think that will help with the corrosion?


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Duckman1":232f15m0 said:
I have a 2320 and have a 84" mounted on the bow of mine. I really like it! I went with Rhodan as well and mounted the batteries under the bench seat. I have a charger also installed with 3 31 series batteries. I had a custom bracket made that mounts over my Windlass. I didn't want to lose the ability to anchor if I rafted up or was fishing in super strong current. If any body needs pictures let me know. I did have to cut my bow rail but I fish all the time and noticed very little difference in its performance when I fish. I have thought about putting a hinge system on it with a magnet and had originally had planned on doing just that. But I use it all the time so it is so much easier just dropping it in. I love thing and am glad I can still use my Windlass as well. There are times where I will sit in super strong current for hours and it is nice for me to have both options. With what I did I lost a little bit of Shaft length but am very happy with everything.

PM me if you need a picture.

Would a 72” not have worked?

I have a 2120 pilot house. Selling my 227 dusky that I just put a 24v 72” Rhodan on, and it works perfect. Was hoping to swap it onto the Parker
 
renaveg":2880d8j2 said:
Here’s some pics of my install on my Armstrong bracket.
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ae6305430eb98d75fd3ff3fbd67e73f5.jpg


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I’m am considering placing mine on the bracket as well, how has this worked for you?
 
It’s worked out great. I’m sure the motor wouldn’t have to work as hard if it was mounted on the bow but I really like being able to launch and retrieve it easily and hear the beeps when using the remote. I also didn’t lose any space on the boat and that section of the boat doesn’t bounce like the bow. I could’ve gone with a shorter shaft because of where it’s mounted but the additional length does make it easier to retrieve.


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Choice of materials. Not Good. Never use Bare copper ends....The corrode so fast in a marine environment.

Always use "Tinned" copper ends.

Circuit Breaker choice. :( Yes the factory's use these automotive circuit breakers. They have raw steel studs and they rust. They are installed by the factory due to "Bean Counter's"
I have replaced them on brand new boats in less than 1yr old. If your stuff quits....Look at that connection 1st.
Or.....Better yet....Replace with a Blue Seas style surface mount breaker in the proper amperage.


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This is by no means a critical comment but are lugs supposed to be limited to 3 terminals/stud?


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Would the motor slide under the bow rail if you deployed it in its deepest position and guided it around the rail?
 
It’s worked out great. I’m sure the motor wouldn’t have to work as hard if it was mounted on the bow but I really like being able to launch and retrieve it easily and hear the beeps when using the remote. I also didn’t lose any space on the boat and that section of the boat doesn’t bounce like the bow. I could’ve gone with a shorter shaft because of where it’s mounted but the additional length does make it easier to retrieve.


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When you spot lock with the trolling motor mounted on the rear bracket, does the starboard transom then face into the wind/current, as opposed to the bow facing into it/them?
 
Take a look at this setup. I currently have a MK on 2320SL that goes out under the rail mounted to front pulpit. I plan on changing to this type mounting in the few months584C826F-E1F5-49F9-8D74-00FB4173D82F.jpeg
 
That looks awesome, is the plate Stainless or Aluminum??
 
Check out "On the Reef" On you tube. It's a great channel. The guy filming has a 2120. Most of the videos start with the title "Crooked Pilothouse" called this because the reveal at the bottom of his pilot house door is about an 1"off. Parker factory defect. Anyway...... He's documented a full trolling mount install and test. He's also made some cool videos an taking the boat to the Bahamas and fishing around florida. Ive included the trolling motor install link. Hopefully it works if not just search him on you tube.


 
Looking to mount a trolling motor on my 2520XLD (2007). Has anyone done so on either a 25' or 23' Parker Pilothouse boat? Looking for installation experiences. I want the trolling motor primarily for "Spot Lock" anchoring and ease of adjustments in deeper water.
 

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Appreciate the pics. I ended up mounting mine in the same spot on the other side of the bow, but I had a larger mounting plate made. So, my motor stows outside the railing, parallel to the starboard side of the boat.
 

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