Understanding the Battery Switch

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Does this switch solve the problem of isolating the "start" battery and keeping both batteries charged? Thoughts on this switch?

https://www.bepmarine.com/en/772-dbc-b
Pro Installer 400A Dual Bank Control Switch - Bulk MC12Part # 772-DBC-B

From the installation diagram, it appears as though you’ll need a separate DVSR module to regulate charging between the batteries. So your installation is going to be more complicated than the BEP cluster. Also, with the cluster you can switch the house and start batteries on and off independently; on this one there’s no way to switch on JUST the engine battery should you want to do so. I don’t see the advantage of this switch over the cluster unless it’s very important that the switch itself for exactly the same footprint, such as when mounted on a panel or other tight space. If you’ve got the extra inch or so of room, the cluster is probably your best bet.
 
I just bought and install the Blue Sea Add-a-battery mini to my kids 18 cc , very simple install and now have 2 batteries which I moved to under console, 1 house, 1 start and the isolator that comes with it takes the guesswork out of what battery needs to charge
 
I hope you that install one look closely at the back side....Specifically the Damn automotive ends on the 10ga wire... Change them out.

This one and all I've installed have been changed....Do NOT even fool with trying to put new crimp/shrink ends on the old wire.....It's important to use the old wire as a measuring tool for the new.
 

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Here’s how your switch should be wired:
View attachment 28563

Check to make sure yours is done correctly. If in doubt, look up the wiring diagram for your specific make and model switch, all that information is available online.

Just because things are the way you find them (even from the factory sometimes) doesn’t mean that it’s right.
I started this thread prematurely. As it turns out, my system is wired as your diagram shows. Once I reach a fishing spot and shut off the motor, can I switch to batt 1 or batt 2 to run livewell, nav, etc.? Thereby, leaving one battery full for starting motor? That is, if the switch is on batt 2, is batt 1 isolated from being drained by house loads? Currently, I have two crank batteries. This thread has clearly shown that my set-up is not ideal. An upgrade to BEP cluster is now on the list. I have a limited budget so it takes time. In the mean time, I would just like to be able to shut the motor off while in-shore fishing but continue to run livewell pump and some tunes from time to time. Many thanks to all that have provided info on this. I now know the way forward once the budget allows.
 
I started this thread prematurely. As it turns out, my system is wired as your diagram shows. Once I reach a fishing spot and shut off the motor, can I switch to batt 1 or batt 2 to run livewell, nav, etc.? Thereby, leaving one battery full for starting motor? That is, if the switch is on batt 2, is batt 1 isolated from being drained by house loads? Currently, I have two crank batteries. This thread has clearly shown that my set-up is not ideal. An upgrade to BEP cluster is now on the list. I have a limited budget so it takes time. In the mean time, I would just like to be able to shut the motor off while in-shore fishing but continue to run livewell pump and some tunes from time to time. Many thanks to all that have provided info on this. I now know the way forward once the budget allows.
Yes, so long as you're diligent in making sure you change the switch so as to isolate the batteries (i.e. either position "1" or "2"), you can run in this manner. It's not ideal but it'll serve your purposes for the time being.

The BEP cluster shown above is somewhere in the neighborhood of $150, if I remember correctly. No need to switch out your batteries while they're still in good condition; while upgrading to one cranking and one deep cycle would be ideal, your two cranking batteries will function with the BEP switch and will be kept in a much better state of charge than with your current setup. If you've got basic electrical tools and skills (an electrical crimper, wire cutters, etc.) it's an easy swap for your existing switch. All in all it's a relatively cheap upgrade. If you post your location in your profile, you may even be able to find a fellow member to assist you if needed!
 
Yes, so long as you're diligent in making sure you change the switch so as to isolate the batteries (i.e. either position "1" or "2"), you can run in this manner. It's not ideal but it'll serve your purposes for the time being.

The BEP cluster shown above is somewhere in the neighborhood of $150, if I remember correctly. No need to switch out your batteries while they're still in good condition; while upgrading to one cranking and one deep cycle would be ideal, your two cranking batteries will function with the BEP switch and will be kept in a much better state of charge than with your current setup. If you've got basic electrical tools and skills (an electrical crimper, wire cutters, etc.) it's an easy swap for your existing switch. All in all it's a relatively cheap upgrade. If you post your location in your profile, you may even be able to find a fellow member to assist you if needed!
Roger that. BEP Cluster is added to the list. I can't thank everyone enough for the guidance. This forum is makes boating better.
 
Beside understanding the battery switch it’s also important to understand the function of the two main circuit breakers especially if you experience a problem at sea. During commissioning yesterday I thought I had an electrical problem. Turned out to be when I was cleaning all my switch, battery connections I accidentally tripped one of the main circuit breakers and did not see it readily because of its location. Bottom line is I now have a better understanding of the electrical system.
 
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