Weight and Towing 2120 or 2320

[mile2885]

Hi all, new to the forum. I have a general question about trailering Parker boats. Currently, I have a 2006 4x4 Tacoma doublecab long box truck with a V6. The tuck is wired for trailer brakes. Towing is rated at 6500lbs max.

I've been in love with the 2120 or the 2320 Sport Cabins but I'm concerned that my truck won't handle the weight.

Anybody know the loaded weight with boat, trailer, motor ect for the 2120 or 2320? I've looked at the Parker site but they just give boat weight. Any info would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!

 

[Parker23.5]

The 2320 is about 5800LBS that is boat, 250 four stroke and full of fuel I have a GMC four door V8 four wheel drive and it pull my boat good. Tom

 

[MaxOut]

If you are not sure see if a dealer will let you hook one up and take it for a ride. If you only plan on pulling short distances on decent grades than you could pull it with just about any truck but I would recommend a full size truck with a V8 if you are pulling long distances. I would also highly recommend hydro over electric brakes so you can use that controller you have. Pulling a trailer is easier than stopping it especially when you are using surge brakes and your tow load out weighs your pull vehicle by 40%. Not a good combination on wet roads :shock: Trust me! I have been pushed through intersections tiring to stop overweight loads with surge brakes and have been lucky but only pulled those loads short distances and it was not any fun doing it. If you do take one for a test tow try giving the brakes a good push (while on a straight open dry road) and see how it stops the load as well as how it pulls it. That might help you decide what type of brakes you should have on the trailer.

 

[rangerdog]

The 2320 with gas and gear, trailer and all the junk really pushes close to 7000-7500 pounds. I wouldn't even think of pulling it with a V-6 with standard brakes.

 

[Dave]

I normally tow my 2120 with a diesel truck, but from time to time I use my 2001 landcruiser and have no problems at all. I don't think I'd do it with a 23 though.

 

[mile2885]

I'd say that size wise, the 2120 would probably be more realistic for our currnet contitions. I've never towed with this truck (previous truck was a GMC 1500), I'll be towing a 22' wakeboard boat this weekend to see how it does. Thanks for all the info.

 

[Mokee]

With 100 gal. of gas, equipment and dual axle aluminum trailer my boat and trailer tip the scales at #6100 (truck scales). She's gone coast to coast dragged by a AWD Mountaineer with a 4.6 liter V8. (If I had a need for speed in a rain storm I'd go bigger.)

Most folks are concerned about the max tow rating of their TV. FWIW, take a look at the combined vehicle gross weight rating, CVGW, too. Go over it and you may have trouble getting over the hill and stopping on the other side.

Other things to consider: where you gonna tow - low country, mountains or both? What rear end are you running? Brakes on both trailer axles and what kind? How fast do I need to go and Interstate or local? Lots of things to consider.

 

[POGE]

I tow short distances a 23DV CC with 250 f-yama. est with 150 gals, gear, at about 7,000+. I use a explorer v8 with factory III hitch ect. Does just fine.
A good trailer make the difference, with dual ax's and 4 disc. brakes I have shorelander, really nice. Also you can look into weight distribution hitch. I think your "load" will be balanced well with the truck, just might wind her out going up hills with the V6 and full load.

 

[big tuna]

I recently bought a 2320. I have a V8 2WD 4Runner rated for 7,800 pounds. I wouldn't attempt it with the 4Runner for anything more than a couple miles. I have seen another V8 4Runner towing a 2320 and asked him how it handled. He said " I sure know it's there. I'm lucky I only live a few miles from the launch".

I went out and bought a new 5.7L Tundra 4x4 and will be towing the boat for the 1st time this weekend with it.

 

[Ranger Tim]

Two words: The Equalizer

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/

It is a weight distribution hitch that takes much of the worry and hassle out of towing near your weight limit. The only thing that it does not do is significantly enhance braking ability, which is arguably the most important aspect when you are cut off at 65 mph. There are some who are vehement foes of WD hitches and if this is you read no more. There are other solutions to carrying more weight with your vehicle but I chose this method for several reasons.

This hitch has worked well for me for five years and I don't like to tow the Parker without it. It will stabilize the truck without any air bags or other spring help. It will distribute load to the front wheels which helps steering and braking, especially control when in adverse conditions. And it is not expensive. The Equalizer hitch is available for less than $700 and is suitable for surge brakes (no matter what others may preach to you). I know this after years of use. While my truck would tow the 2120 okay without it I always utilize it for road trips. It installs in two minutes and is not in the way at all. There are no chains with an Equalizer hitch.

Weight limits for Ford class 3 factory hitches are generally 5000 lbs/10,000 lbs with WD hitch. I follow that rule and sleep easy. It also saves my truck some wear by utilizing more of the frame to carry the load. You will need to replace front pads more frequently but the rear pads/shoes less. YMMV

 

[MaxOut]

The best thing you can do is get a vehicle that is suitable for towing the boat of your choice :lol: and get 4 wheel disc brakes on the trailer with electric over hydro controller. Arguably but in my opinion the best braking system available for a boat trailer.

A weight distribution hitch is not going to save your drive train or stop your trailer for you. They are more common on RV's as RV's have allot more tongue weight and help balance the load. Not sure how they work with surge brakes? But apparently they do. You can accomplish the same effect of a weight distribution hitch by moving your winch tower fore and aft on the trailer to adjust tongue weight. An undersized tow vehicle is unsafe. Not to say you can't tow a 2320 100000 miles with a VW bug but I wouldn't even consider it. The Tacoma is small light duty truck and the Parker is a heavy duty boat. Hook one up and see for yourself. If you feel comfortable and the truck feels capable for your usage than go for it. If you do use the Tacoma make sure you have a transmission cooler installed if there is not a suitable one already. Trannies depend on the engine for cooling and can run hotter than the engine. There isn't allot of tolerance in viscosity for heat fluctuations and even a small increase in tranny temp could spell MELTDOWN.

Of coarse this is my opinion and everybody has one but I pull Rv, equipment, boat etc. trailers allmost every day and learned over the years not to skimp on tow vehicles. You will pay one way or another if you do.

 

[mile2885]

The newer model Tacomas are much bigger than they use to be. About the size of an old Tundra....Still not a serious tower compared to a diesel. We'll see how it goes. I don't anticipate any issues with a 2120.

 

[EDGEWATER]

Stopping and stability are critical to safe hauling. I've towed a lot of big heavy car trailers up and down the east coast, both highway and back roads.

Stopping is a function of trailer brakes and tow vehicle brakes. Large diameter discs on your tow vehicle work the best. If you have a dual axle trailer go for the 4-wheel brake option. And make sure they work well.

Stability is not only related to capacity of your tow vehicle but wheelbase. The longer the better! You'll find out how important this is when you go into a turn in the rain and have to hit your brakes. A short wheelbase tow vehicle coupled to a heavy trailer will take control and jack knife pretty quickly. A longer wheelbase tends not to do this and if they do - the pivoting action tends to be much shower giving you more time to react.

My vehicle of choice is a long wheelbase 3500 Duramax GMC. My trailer is overkill for my boat - 6 lug wheels, heavy tires, 4-wheel discs - I think it's 8600 GVW.

For your vehicle - I'd suggest a smaller boat, air-bags for your truck (regardless of it's towing capacity) and 4-wheel disc brakes on the trailer. Plumb your air bags with separate independently filled lines. A shared line allows the air to flow from one side to the other. Separate lines won't and provide a little added side - to - side sway control.

A lot of friends give me the towing capacity argument - that's all well and fine when everything goes right. But when things go wrong - that's when you want a tow vehicle that remains in control and doesn't give it up to your towed load.

 

[MaxOut]

You can accomplish the same effect of a weight distribution hitch by moving your winch tower fore and aft on the trailer to adjust tongue weight.


:shock: Really :?: Just move tongue up and add some Air Lifts? Wonder how long it takes to hook up WD stuff?


The Tacoma is small light duty truck and the Parker is a heavy duty boat.

:shock: "Tacoma small light duty" ouch. I'm not too sure Tacoma in 4-L won't out pull my Silverado in 4-L (and I'm a Chevy guy).

Don’t get me wrong I am not bashing the Tacoma or the WD I like the Toyota. I’m only giving my opinion based on my experience towing with a Tacoma (2006 4X4 Crew Cab V-6). It’s not the power that was the problem even though it lacked for the load we carried (empty 30’car hauler), it was the suspension. Weight distribution is just that it’s not a magic bar that makes your trailer lighter. Moving the winch tower fore and aft does the same thing by distributing the weight of the boat more onto the trailer and less onto the tongue of the truck or vice versa. Some tractor trailers can adjust 5th wheel fore and aft as well as rear axles to distribute the load for optimum towing. You can adjust your boat and find a good balance point suitable for the vehicle towing. Some vehicles tow better with a little more tongue weight than others. The reason RV's use WD so much is the load changes according to how you load the trailer and the axles are not easily moved to compensate. RV's also generally have allot more tongue weight by design. It is also very important that the tow trailer is level so weight is equally balanced on tandem trailer axles. The idea is to let the trailer carry the weight of the boat (load) and have sufficient enough tongue weight to eliminate sway and keep the trailer planted when un hooked. A trailer leaning forward will put allot more weight on the tongue of the tow vehicle especially if heavy braking is applied. Most hitches only are rated for 500lbs tongue weight max some up to 1500lbs (class IV-V) or more. Receivers and balls are rated as well and many times become the weakest link. You total tow capacity is only as strong as your weakest link. Too much tongue weight also can overload your rear tires of your tow vehicle. Many people change tires to get a better ride and end up greatly reducing there tow capacity and don't even know it. Not all tires that fit your vehicle are HD enough to meet your max GVW thus reducing your tow/carrying capacity. There is allot to think of when towing safely and overkill is always better. Best you can do is hook one up get it level make sure you have good brakes and give it a try. Fact is many people are exceeding the capacity of there receivers, tires and hitches and claim they tow great but I would not recommend exceeding any capacities.

Oh- Towing and pulling are two different things, your Silverado Will out pull and out tow the Tacoma. Hands Down. Like Edgewater said your longer wheelbase and greater weight of the Silverado will control the load much better. It's less about how fast you can accelerate and more about stabillity and control under normal and emergancy driving conditions.