Windlass Install on Pulpit for those that have done it themselves.

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Swatski

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did you see warthog photo with cleat
solves those issues
FActory setup has two large cleats, one on each side of the windlass. @Mpellet cleats off off the cockpit, with the line going through the bow eye though, which is very smart way to do that, especially for solo artists like many of us.

I still like the anchor ball for retrieval, PIA but it makes the retrieval less stressful, especially around rocky bottom etc.
 

Antidote

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My concern wasn’t for you:) as you were intent on doing what you do. I explained why I don’t operate that way to perhaps give someone else pause before running around with an unpinned anchor on the pulpit.

You might wanna rethink being able to react with throttle or gear shifter in the case of an inadvertent anchor deployment. Boats don’t have brakes. if the anchor ever hits the water while the boat is at speed, the anchor will be pulled well aft of the engine before you pulling back the throttle has any effect at all on the boat’s movement.

Take care......(y)
Ya know my brand new 2019 2520 XLD didn't come with an anchor pin. I did; however, add one. Seeing the anchor dance around on the pulpit gave me much more concern than the windlass failing while holding roughly 2 1/2 lbs of tension on the anchor. Maybe Parker had the same though when they sent me my new boat..
 

warthog5

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Each piece is only 1 inch thick so did you epoxy or glue them all together before bolting them to the deck?
Mine was Not HDPE plastic. You will never glue that together. Nothing sticks to HDPE.

Mine was built of 3/4in Marine plywood.....Epoxy glued together and then covered in fiberglass mat.

You take the footprint drawing to the fabricator that will work in alum. Have him build a Hallow box out of 1/4in alum.....The oval tube that the rode runs thru is built out of a piece of alum tube....cut in half.....then pieces of flat welded between where it was cut.....to form a Oval as in the drawing. It would be a good idea to have tubes welded inside where the unit is thru bolted. This will make for a VERY strong piece.

Make the unit about 8in or 9in tall.

Now go hunt a source for fabrication in your area. :)
 

Island Dreamer

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Mine was Not HDPE plastic. You will never glue that together. Nothing sticks to HDPE.

Mine was built of 3/4in Marine plywood.....Epoxy glued together and then covered in fiberglass mat.

You take the footprint drawing to the fabricator that will work in alum. Have him build a Hallow box out of 1/4in alum.....The oval tube that the rode runs thru is built out of a piece of alum tube....cut in half.....then pieces of flat welded between where it was cut.....to form a Oval as in the drawing. It would be a good idea to have tubes welded inside where the unit is thru bolted. This will make for a VERY strong piece.

Make the unit about 8in or 9in tall.

Now go hunt a source for fabrication in your area. :)
Great I located some quarter inch aluminum and also a welder up in Ventura who could handle it. The part about splitting the tube and a half and creating an oval sounds like it might be more challenging than just putting a tube down the middle. Do you think they’d be any issue with just having a 3 inch tube running down the middle of the aluminum box?
 
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the first photo is E-Z Anchor Puller Rebel EZ-4 on a Parker installed by Pacific Bill's Charter from Pacific Coast Sportfishing Magazine. 500' of 1/4" dyneema, 75' nylon with 50' of chain.

The second was installed by this forum's member @Live2fish on a Parker 2820 XL.
 

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Island Dreamer

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the first photo is E-Z Anchor Puller Rebel EZ-4 on a Parker installed by Pacific Bill's Charter from Pacific Coast Sportfishing Magazine. 500' of 1/4" dyneema, 75' nylon with 50' of chain.

The second was installed by this forum's member @Live2fish on a Parker 2820 XL.
Love your product just a bit out of my budget! Maybe you can put together a group buy option or some discount for the Parker forum.
 
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warthog5

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The part about splitting the tube and a half and creating an oval sounds like it might be more challenging than just putting a tube down the middle.
Not for someone that can fabricate with alum......I built it to the same size as what is on the Lewmar drawing.
 

Island Dreamer

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Not for someone that can fabricate with alum......I built it to the same size as what is on the Lewmar drawing.
Thanks warthog. I’m actually driving right now up to the aluminum shop. Any chance you got dimensions on the box you created??
 

Island Dreamer

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Mine was Not HDPE plastic. You will never glue that together. Nothing sticks to HDPE.

Mine was built of 3/4in Marine plywood.....Epoxy glued together and then covered in fiberglass mat.

You take the footprint drawing to the fabricator that will work in alum. Have him build a Hallow box out of 1/4in alum.....The oval tube that the rode runs thru is built out of a piece of alum tube....cut in half.....then pieces of flat welded between where it was cut.....to form a Oval as in the drawing. It would be a good idea to have tubes welded inside where the unit is thru bolted. This will make for a VERY strong piece.

Make the unit about 8in or 9in tall.

Now go hunt a source for fabrication in your area. :)
I think I’m confused about the oval portion. This is the template that shows the 3 inch hole. If I have this aluminum box fabricated wouldn’t that just be a 3 inch tube running down the middle?

I now understand the oval you were talking about when I look at the gasket.
 

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warthog5

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Yes.....and you see....For The Mount......If you cut a 3in hole......You would loose a Bunch of strength

I believe You have it now........ Does your Fabricator? :)

If I built one today.... It would be the same shape as the wood one I built....But I have access to a Plasama table now and would build it as I've told you here.....There are TREMENDOUS stress's put on that box.

It would be cut with point designed plates......Whats that? In the pix you will see a example of Points on the plates....That is 4 flat plates that fit together perfect and square. The points lock it in and hold the piece so max penetration of welding can be done. The weld can be buffed off to give the weldment a smooth radius on its edges and be perfectly strong.

1630498473667.png
 

Island Dreamer

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Thanks for all the advice. The fabrication of the aluminum box was almost 500 with material so I opted for the pulpit mount. I have 8 plait rope and heavy chain so I'm hoping it all sits right. My average anchoring depth is 20 to 60 feet max so once most of the rope is organized right in the locker, I dont expect to have too many issues. Ill report back is there are any binds or jams when deploying.
Someone mentioned that the 25 foot Parkers with the wide beam have much larger and wider anchor lockers than the smaller models where binding or jams might occur more often.
The trick to get in to the anchor locker thru the V berth was to insert one arm first, reach up and grab the top of the partition, and pull as much of yourself thru as possible.
 

warthog5

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Once in a while... I would have to do that with mine.....BUT.....I had 600ft of 1/2in 3 strand in it.
No that will not fit in a normal size locker....I modified mine.....On a '95.....Stock size....300ft would be max.
 

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Love your product just a bit out of my budget! Maybe you can put together a group buy option or some discount for the Parker forum.
I'll certainly look into this, island dreamer! We also have buy-back programs in place for people who are social media/forum savvy. if you email [email protected], we can certainly share some of that info!
 

Cheapie408

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You need to hire a skinnier guy. Seriously!

I did this a few weeks ago by myself. The hard hardest part was gathering my confidence to drill the 3" hole. After that, I did 3 coats of west system epoxy on all the holes drilled. The good news is the 3/8 inch holes suggested by the manufacturer is to give you wiggle room. If you drill it spot on, it'll slide right in snug after epoxy. I so added butyl tape wherever I can just in case.

I'm an average size (Asian) guy and can fit in the hole to get everything tightened. Can be done in hours or less minus the cure time for epoxy.
 
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