Winter tarp frame

[DaleH]

For many years I used PVC frame and tarps and had zero issues. But last Winter, my brother's 10-year old frame of wooden strapping survived the hurricane force winds (84mph at peak) we had last FEB during a blinding blizzard. Since his frame didn't buckle or flex, he had minimal damage to his tarps. while my neat idea PVC frame … uhhhh, was too flexible and allowed the tarps to tear to shreds.

So for this Winter I came up with a simple frame built of wood strapping, 8 & 12 footers. Total cost $30 for the wood and just a few drywall screws and 4” long bolts & fender washers to hold it all together. It was really easy suspending it off the tuna tower frame. Some older 1/2" PVC lengths I've used for years formed the 'hoops' to help shed the snow off the top and to prevent pockets snow could accumulate in.

Heavy-duty tarps sure went up with the rising price of fuel, as a 20’ by 25’ one was $80. 2 new tarps and the frame cost < $200 and since I'll get 4-5 years out of the tarps and 10+ ot of the frame ... my annual outlay for winter covers is what ... $30? Not too bad ... beats shrink wrap @ $10-$12 per foot per year :shock: !

 

[Bryan 2530]

Looks great Dale!!

I think the key to keeping tarps lasting and working to shed snow is a continous ridge down the length of the boat. Mine goes from the tip of the pulpit to above the motors in a straight line, just like the ridge on the house. Built mine 5 years ago and it still works great!!

 

[DaleH]

I think the key to keeping tarps lasting and working to shed snow is a continous ridge down the length of the boat.

I agree 100%! But with the tower, I just couldn't put a continuous ridge or it would have been a good 14 to 16 feet above the washboards :shock: ! As is, I had to use a 6' step ladder to "git up there" to fasten it all together, when really I should have brought my 8 or 10' ladder ... I almost fell off once - whew, dodged that one .

 

[Bryan 2530]

But with the tower, I just couldn't put a continuous ridge or it would have been a good 14 to 16 feet above the washboards :shock:

You could have left it on for the summer and sailed back from tun'er fishin'.

 

[Uncle Matt]

Each year I modify my cover. I got all of the ideas from many here at this site. Here is my latest 2010 version. It cost me $89 for a new heavy duty tarp, about $35 for PVC pipes and 2 hours of time.

 

[Megabyte]

Matt... those PVC 'bows' are money! 8)

 

[Bryan 2530]

I think the key to keeping tarps lasting and working to shed snow is a continous ridge down the length of the boat.

I agree 100%! But with the tower, I just couldn't put a continuous ridge or it would have been a good 14 to 16 feet above the washboards :shock: ! .

We should have built 1970's A frames over our boats this year. :wink:

 

[papasown]

Hey Uncle Matt, I know it's early, and we don't want to think about winter again, but I've been thinking about a cover plan for my (new to me) 2007 23se. I used to have an Egg Harbor and used a wodden frame similar to your design, and it worked well for me. I particularly like the idea that I can get on board to get ready early for next season.
My questions to you are: How did you support the frame near the stern? How did you protect the gunnels and fix the PVC ends there? Would you recommend some wodden supports from frame to the gunnels? Or is the frame strong enough without. I don't know the size of your boat, but I have a 23se, and I'm trying to figure the cover size. I also admire your heavy duty cover, and can you tell me where to order one.

Thanks for sharing your good ideas, and thanks, again for responding..............Papa

 

[Uncle Matt]

Papa -

I got your pm. I should have some more photos showing the stern area of my frame. I've used this frame for 5-6 years now and keep adapting it as I change things. The entire thing takes me a few hours to build and cover each fall. I kinda look forward to it every year. It's a 3-4 beer project for me.

I'm away until this weekend so I will call you the beginning of next week if that is ok. I also have a 23SE and I will get you the tarp info as well.

Matt

 

[Bryan 2530]

I vote we stop talking about this thread until at least Nov. :evil: :evil: :evil:

 

[papasown]

Sorry to bum you out, Bryan. I know there are many fish to fry yet, but it's good to have things "on the side", when it's time to go. Maybe we can put it down for a while, now.........Catch 'em up!!!!!!! Papa

Thank you, Uncle Matt, and I'll talk to you later........

 

[DaleH]

New modifications this year ... kept the ridge lines LOW on the fore and aft, as it was just to darn high last season (what with the tuna tower adding another 4 to 5' in height). I also switched out wood side-supports and made a nest of crossed ropes like a spiderweb. Some of the "crossed ropes" were added after these pictures were taken, but I think the pictures show the concept well. I liked the "same height" ridge pole when I didn't have the tower, but I would had had to setup scaffolding :shock: to get 'er setup this year!

 

[DaleH]

Note the pulput was removed? I took it off to sand her to bare, re-finish it, coat with 3 coats of epoxy, and then 8-10 coats of varnish. With the epoxy sealing the finish layer, I'll never have to re-finish it again ... just a touch up coat of varnish every couple years.

The holes through the pulpit and into the bow deck were already done as 'epoxy plugs', so that worked out really great! No water intrusion to the deck or pulpit core and no crevice corrosion in evidence on the special 316L stainless steel bolts I used for the install.

 

[DaleH]

Tarped ... in 3 pieces, one smaller for the bow, then one to cover the stern and last but not least, one to go over the tuna tower and overlap the other 2 pieces by at least 6' on each end. With the highest point the last piece, snow, rain, and ice will shed down without getting into the boat.

Sizes, in case any one else with a tower needs to cover there boat = fore 12x20, stern 16x24 and middle 18x24, with the long sides across the hull.

$30 in wood and materials, maybe $120 in tarps, but I get 4-5 years out of each one (rotate a new one in every 2 years or so, so I figure this system co$ts me $30 per year. Not too bad, since the local shrink wrapper charges $12 per linear foot and my boat would be rated as a 30-footer :shock: !

 

[Capt. Ronnie]

Got tired of the cost of shrink wrap and couldn't deal with depending on weather to prep to be in the water for early april launch.
36L x 14W x 16H
Set it on a 2x8 (x4 = 6 in for additional door height) pressure treated base, nailed together, 6ft rebar into ground every 2ft all the way around and 24 cable earth anchors that can with frame.

 

[DaleH]

Got tired of the cost of shrink wrap and couldn't deal with depending on weather to prep to be in the water for early april launch.

In a word ... AWESOME!

 

[Sully]

Ron
You did it right
Did you get that out of CT
Or where and did you go get it or have it delivered
I have had this on for 9 years going to get on like yours soon
Maybe this year

 

[Capt. Ronnie]

Ron
You did it right
Did you get that out of CT
Or where and did you go get it or have it delivered
I have had this on for 9 years going to get on like yours soon
Maybe this year

It's a Rhino Shelter.
Company is out of CT but I got it from one of their vendors in NH http://www.overthetopshelters.com/
and picked it up in one of my dump trucks (all in boxes)
I even got it prior to a price increase :mrgreen:
There are others just as good (Shelter Logic and Clear Span are 2) but this is the only one that met my height and door width for my boat.
It's a bit tight in the sides of the boat which will make buffing tough but doable.
@ 36 long fits the boat, all coolers, dock & fish box, tower and still room to move around.
You would be surprised how warm it is inside even without a heater.
Just plan to hang a bunch of lights for when I want to "tinker"