Yamaha F300 making oil

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srayne

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Berlin, MD
I have a 2020 Yamaha F300 that I have about 110 hrs on it. The first oil change it was over full. I have been checking the oil regularly since and the oil level is rising again. I have read that the F300's make oil during the break in but is this something that I should have a Yamaha dealer look at?
 
Many people believe it is due to lack of high rpm operation during break in, thought to seat the rings.

It could be an injector that is flooding. It is easy to pull the injectors and send them out for flow testing and cleaning.

It could also be a stuck open thermostat not allowing the engine to reach operating temperature. Also a relative easy them to check - remove thermostats and check them for operating in a pot of water on the stove or just replace them.

Since the engine is covered under warranty I would try to get your Yamaha shop to take a look.
 
Well, I would do an oil analysis. Does oil look okay? Not milky? Milky would be possible water intrusion. The only other thing could be blow by of fuel which could be ring seals or injector issues. An oil analysis will not only pick up metals, but water and fuel as well. I have used Blackstone labs. Here is a link: Blackstone Laboratories. I would think by 100 hours you should be broken in. After the initial analysis do another at the next oil change and see how things look.
 
It's definitely not water. I am familiar with what water in your oil looks like and that is not the issue. I have run her pretty hard but not often enough I guess. I have the 2320 and that thing really runs fast at WOT. I changed props and she runs about 54 mph at WOT running 5600 rpm. I was planning on taking a sample and have it analyzed when I drop the oil again then I guess I'll go run the piss out of it on a calm day. Problem is most people don't enjoy going 50+ mph in a boat but I don't mind!
 
My 2006 F225 has always made oil. I purchased the boat with 295 hrs 7 or so years ago and I’m now around 800ish. I had a thermostat that failed stuck open one time and it really kills the power. If your power is ok and you are able to achieve your normal WOT RPM then you likely don’t have a thermostat stuck open. On that note, I now have changing them as a PM item every 200 hrs along with water pump service. My tech now fills my oil about 1/4 below full and I change it every 100hrs or a little less depending on my timing getting it done. Running them hard helps burn off the excess and you should open her up every chance you get on when conditions allow. Maybe try a strong dose of Yamaha Ring Free if appropriate for that motor. However, like mentioned above, if under warranty, I would take it to the dealer and see what they will do recommend. Good luck.
 
I changed props and she runs about 54 mph at WOT running 5600 rpm
May I ask what prop did you change to?

I am not an expert, but that top speed seems very high for the (low-ish) RPM at WOT. That could be contributory, possibly?

My 2320 w/F300 w/factory prop tops out at 50mph revving 5,900 RPM.
 
Solas 15.25x18 4 blade
I have the Powertech OFS4 in 15 pitch on order from Ken at Prop Gods.
I used Solas 4 blade props in the past, some time ago w 2-strokers, I loved them. May add this one that you are running. One can never have too many spare props, right? lol.

My first oil change has had slight fuel contamination per Blackstone, it was not anything alarming, the level was pretty static.
I have been watching it closely.

I do run WOT quite a bit as I slip in a channel, I can open her up on return for the last few miles.
 
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I have gone through this with a 2005 F250 on a 2320. It is unburned fuel leaking back into the crank case. If you google "making oil " you will learn that it is not only Yamaha, It is an issue with 4 strokes. I have spoken w/ Yamaha reps and their advice was running at higher rpm's. I have bumped my cruising speed from 4800 to 5000. I had been cheating some on fuel w/ regular gas. I now run no less than 90 octane . I also run WOT for 5 minutes or so on each trip when the seas allow, which was another suggestion from Yamaha rep. This solved my engine from making oil. I did the above mentioned checks of thermostats, injectors, etc. I live and fish on Delaware Bay in Jersey. I have seen commercial crabbers who run all day at little over an idle have oil run out of the dip stick. I think it is all BS, the industry should be able to build a 4 Stroke w/o this issue. The 4 stroke is the same thing that's under the hood of your vehicle and that motor does not make oil. All Yamaha wants to tell you is, that you did not break it in properly so they can void warranty on a faulty engine.
 
As someone stated could be thermostat related. If the engine is running too cold unturned gas can leak past the rings and into the crankcase. Happened to me on my Zuke running in cold water and low rpms.
 
I have gone through this with a 2005 F250 on a 2320. It is unburned fuel leaking back into the crank case. If you google "making oil " you will learn that it is not only Yamaha, It is an issue with 4 strokes. I have spoken w/ Yamaha reps and their advice was running at higher rpm's. I have bumped my cruising speed from 4800 to 5000. I had been cheating some on fuel w/ regular gas. I now run no less than 90 octane . I also run WOT for 5 minutes or so on each trip when the seas allow, which was another suggestion from Yamaha rep. This solved my engine from making oil. I did the above mentioned checks of thermostats, injectors, etc. I live and fish on Delaware Bay in Jersey. I have seen commercial crabbers who run all day at little over an idle have oil run out of the dip stick. I think it is all BS, the industry should be able to build a 4 Stroke w/o this issue. The 4 stroke is the same thing that's under the hood of your vehicle and that motor does not make oil. All Yamaha wants to tell you is, that you did not break it in properly so they can void warranty on a faulty engine.
Many car engine models make oil.
 
My 2000 f115 has 650 hours after 21 years, and doesn’t make oil. I ran it 67 miles yesterday and 8 of them were at 5800 rpm wot behind key largo. Bottom line here is to keep running it hard and eventually it will break in. And run it hard during the warranty period!
 
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There are dozens of threads of this issue, yamaha outboards "making oil" on THT.
None leading to an engine failure.

Collectively, it seems those new 4.2 V6 Yamaha motors like to be ridden hard. That seems to be the cure.

I can live with that!

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My 300 just hit 660 hours and has ran perfect from day 1.
I still do the WOT thing every-so-often just because in my mind they were built to work hard.
 
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Brad's 300 made oil from day one, he talked to Yamaha so much I think they thought about blocking his number (sorry Brad), but at the end of the day they said don't worry many 300s make oil, and the owners don't know. They also said you should run it harder during the break-in, I did with my 300 and no problems, Brad babied his and had issues. As I remember the advice was to run the engine hard for the rings to finally seal correctly, but don't quote me.
 
If the "break-in" is so critical, why not sell them broken in. For the money we pay for outboards, you should be able to turn the key and go. Again this is the industry's excuse for not honoring a warranty on a motor that is leaking unburned fuel back past the rings. I agree, they need to be ran hard but, you can only run as hard as the seas allow. For the past three weeks I have been running into a two foot short chop to get to fishing grounds. As everyone knows on this site you can't run hard in those seas w/a Parker DV hull
 
If the "break-in" is so critical, why not sell them broken in. For the money we pay for outboards, you should be able to turn the key and go. Again this is the industry's excuse for not honoring a warranty on a motor that is leaking unburned fuel back past the rings. I agree, they need to be ran hard but, you can only run as hard as the seas allow. For the past three weeks I have been running into a two foot short chop to get to fishing grounds. As everyone knows on this site you can't run hard in those seas w/a Parker DV hull

I’ll start a business breaking in fish boats…lol
 
If the "break-in" is so critical, why not sell them broken in. For the money we pay for outboards, you should be able to turn the key and go. Again this is the industry's excuse for not honoring a warranty on a motor that is leaking unburned fuel back past the rings. I agree, they need to be ran hard but, you can only run as hard as the seas allow. For the past three weeks I have been running into a two foot short chop to get to fishing grounds. As everyone knows on this site you can't run hard in those seas w/a Parker DV hull
I think the key is the choice of a prop.
I hear you. But we have choices. Yamaha can not predict your sea conditions.

Just sayin.

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