Yamaha waterpump failure rate

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johnsw

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Has anyone actually had a waterpump impellor failure and if so, about how many hours/seasons were on it when it failed?

Part of my 100hr maintenance routine is rebuild the water pump, but just curious how long these things have actually lasted given the 'modern' materials available today, and seeing that this is my first experience with Yamaha. My last boat had a Mercruiser Alpha outdrive, and the impellor on that one would easily go past 200 hours, 4+ seasons.

John S.
 
I would imagine that you should be able to get 3 seasons out of a pump provided you dont touch bottom or pull some sand into you lower unit. I thought it was to be done every other year but my dealer (Merc dealer) said 3 years or 300 hours. I have had my boat 3 seasons and am on my original pump with over 360 hours. My water pressure is reading fine. I plan on having the pump done before the spring season though.
 
The service manager at my Parker/Yamaha dealer changes impellers every three years.
 
The overheat alarm on my '97 Yamaha '90 sounded while on an extended idle, fly fishing close to the rocky shore of Maine. We shut it right down, set the anchor and waited for things to cool. Fortunately, the surf was light. We theorized that the long period at idle meant that not enough cold water was making it through the cooling system. The head was not quite too hot to touch. When we started it again, the alarm stayed off but the telltale water was warm. As the engine ran at higher rpm's, the exiting water and the head cooled off, so our theory seemed right When inspected, the impeller had lost a few fins, so it was on its way.
 
johnsw":3hg46bqo said:
... just curious how long these things have actually lasted given the 'modern' materials available today ...
I haven't heard of any 'uninitiated' one in many years. Now, what I mean by that is, I've heard of 1 or 2 guys who admittedly 'beached' the boat on sandbars or ran through shallows and then had a water pump failure. Well ... duh :shock: !

I bet you that if not subject to abuse like above, then a good impeller could last maybe 5 seasons and many hours. It is tough to put an actual year or hour figure on them. I have taken impellers out of V6 motors when the owner couldn't remember when or if it was ever done (but clearly not in the last 3 or more years) and they were pliable and perfectly sound.

Now don't just worry about the impeller, as you inquired about, as that is just one of the critical parts crucial to a working cooling water system. The other key parts are the:

* Waterpump housing itself
* Thermostats
* Lower unit bolts

I perform a full waterpump and thermostat replacement every 3 seasons, which would be ~300 hours. Now if I was well over 200 hours in 2 seasons, then I'd most likely do it before the 3rd season. Conversely, let's say I didn't use it too much and my hours didn't clock over 160 hours for those 3 seasons (... now not that AIN'T gonna happen ;) ), what I could do is 'skip' that year and do it after the 4th year. But ... what I would darn well do is to remove, clean and replace the lower unit bolts! I replace the t-stats anytime the waterpump gets a service and I would NEVER replace just the impeller on any V4 or V6 motor. I do, however, do this on smaller OBs. It is a judgement call, but only on small puppies.

Even when I repair old used OBs that have never had a waterpump or impleller replacement, when I get it out, the impeller is fine and the housing, specially the bottom plate the impeller runs against, is flat and not scored. But I have to drill out 1 or more lower unit bolts just to get the lower leg apart. I hate that - arrgghhhh! When I price out such a job (if doing for a friend) then I'll warn them beforehand that the 'estimated' price is subject to getting it apart and many times that 'heat hammer' (torch) and machine work will cost them twice as much or MORE to have the broken bolts drilled out and replaced than it did for the parts and service cost just to get to the waterpump.

If you get the chance, learn to do so yourself, as it takes me but ~30-minutes now to do so on most any of my brothers' motors or those of mine (I think we'll be running 12 or 13 OBs for the 2008 season). Not too bad for $50 for the kit and $2 coffee to consume during this work. And it sure beats the $90-$100 per hour fee the area shops are getting and I bet they rate it as a minimum 2-hour job.

There used to be an on-line DIY tutorial of 'how to' perform a waterpump service ... but I just checked it and the picture links are dead :( . Oh well, if I do a service this season I'll try to take photos of the process.
 
I'm another one who doesn't just do the impeller.
I do the pump, the t-stats, and the poppits all at the same time.
 
Thanks for the responses. It was mostly a curiosity thing. I'm out of warranty now on my '04, so I'll be taking on more of the routine maintenance myself. Having done older (ca. 1964) Mercury I once owned, figured this one would probably be basically the same, but maybe in some ways easier. I should be good for a couple more seasons on the pump now (manual recommendation is 200 hrs., but I won't wait that long), since it was done last season. Thermostat's a good point, and I'll be sure to remember it when I give it a try.

John S.
 
Two words: Woodruff Key! I have the hardest time driving that stupid thing out. It is the only difficult thing I ran into with the impeller replacement.

Be sure to buy the kit with the plastic housing. Mine was glazed and some areas beginning to melt/soften, but the impeller was fine. Replace it all. Find a non-conductive anti-seize compound before you start. Don't use the copper stuff.
 
Yamaha FS pump housings are notorious for warping. Then they leak. Then you have no water pressure. $250 job incl. parts and labor in my neck of the woods...
 
If you have a lower unit bolt (or any bolt for that matter) seize up, here is a fool-proof way to get her unstuck.

  • Obtain a large brass drift (3/4" or so in dia.).
    Obtain a heavy hammer (3 lb hand sledge does nicely)
    Put the brass drift on the head of the bolt, and smack the other end of the drift about as hard as you can with the hand sledge.

The impact will loosen the corrosion between the dissimilar metals and allow you to remove the bolt. If one smack doesn't do it, try one or two more before bringing out the heat hammer.

Dave

aka
 
pro mechanics just get the torch...if you try that stunt with the crappy Jap stainless bolts and round off the heads you are f*&ked
 
Ranger Tim":1z41thek said:
Find a non-conductive anti-seize compound before you start. Don't use the copper stuff.

Can you recommend a non-conductive anti-seize compound? I just have the copper stuff. I actually used it on the impeller bolts. Should I clean it all out before I get back in the water? I still have the lower unit in my garage.

Thanks.
 
Permatex Anti-Seize #133A. Conforms to Mil Spec: Mil-A-907E. Especially good on Aluminum and Stainless. Service operation temp.: -65F to 2000F intermittent.
 
bajadude":2fk1rp8t said:
Permatex Anti-Seize #133A. Conforms to Mil Spec: Mil-A-907E. Especially good on Aluminum and Stainless. Service operation temp.: -65F to 2000F intermittent.

Should I clean off the copper stuff? How should I clean inside the threads? Thanks.
 
Bajadude, will any of these work? I'm having trouble finding #133A online. I like to order from McMaster anyway. Thanks.
 

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I just bought a can of anti-seize that appears to be nickel based and it says that it is excellent for resisting corrosion and prevents electrolysis. I'll pick it up and bring it here to post more details next time I'm in the shop. A pint can and about $24 - Oughtta last the rest of my life. I found it at our local old-time family run hardware store in the city. Killer store, they have everything and even help you find it and tell you how to fix it. A rarity in this day and age.
 
bajadude":13q0xg5j said:
Yamaha FS pump housings are notorious for warping. Then they leak. Then you have no water pressure. $250 job incl. parts and labor in my neck of the woods...

That's a decent price,I have been charged 350-400 for water pump,thermostats.
 
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