10 micron vs 14 micron

[Mike Paul]

I have an older Yamaha 175 Saltwater Series 2 stroke on the back of my 21 Parker. I know everyone has always said with ethanol in our fuel we need to run a 10 micron fuel filter - which I have done using a Racor filter with the collection bulb in the bottom. I have yet to see any visible water in my buld - which is a good thing. However this filter runs about $30 give or take a few dollars. I have cross refferenced the number to a standard WIX filter which will fit my fuel filter block. This filter is only $11 but it is also 14 micron.

Here is my question. How improtant are those 4 microns ? I do all my own maitnenance work on my boat. I change filters frequently - I shoot for every 30 days but it probably works out to more to about every 45 days or so from May thru Oct. Not try to be shoot myself in the foot for a few dollars but every little bit helps if you save it wisely. Any thoughts ?

 

[Brent]

here is a size chart

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKE ... extfmt=EN#

Does the WIX fuel filter have a spec sheet?
Which filter are you using now? Is it a straight fuel filter or fuel and water filter?

I dont know if we are comparing apples to applies or pizza

 

[Mike Paul]

This is apples to apples.


I am currently using a Racor S3213. Which is a fuel filter. it has the bowl on the bottom where you can see if any water or trash has been colltected.

The WIX filter that cross refference over to that numer is a fuel filter also. Wix 33225 - this is a canister filter without the bowl on the bottom.

 

[Brent]

Ok thanks I have not used WIX filters

For piece of mind, I prefer RACOR or Yamaha which is longer and does accept a bowl to see water but can be removed and pour contents into a glass container to check.

I attached a fuel filter article from 2004

 

[Brent]

I bought filters from Sim Yamaha. They have low prices and $9.95 shipping on the entire order which is a good deal when ordering several items in one order...parts, oil, oil and fuel filters, Ringfree etc. They have Yamaha filters for a little $17 plus shipping

I bought 3 Racor 2 micron filters for $80.32 or $26.74 each with free shipping from Gander Mountain.

I dont know your price point but I am staying with RACOR

 

[Mike Paul]

From what I have read with ethanol you need to change filters very frequently. I don't mind doing that but I was thinking that if I changed filters often I am going to buy a cheaper filter.

From what I have been told WIX and Baldwin are like MTD lawn mowers. The make all the filters and then just paint them a different color and write someone elses name on the side.

 

[Brent]

I use e zero gas

Filter is changed every season or 100 hours, whatever comes first.

I check the bowl for water and debris. I dont have water issues but if I see a lot of debris then replace again ....only one time to see it and cut the filter apart. Earlier I siphoned out the tank and there was not a lot of debris

 

[Robert Cibran]

If you use the Wix # 33769, you can still use the clear bowl, it states on their web page that 33769 is opened at bottom, so I assume its to place plastic bowl, if you do not want plastic bowl, then its #33225, I would keep the clear bowl just to be able to see and clear if any water or debri is present

 

[Brent]

It is interesting the racor costs more than than OEM
Often it is the reverse

 

[Mike Paul]

I appreciate the feed back gentlemen but I am still left wondering about my first and basic question and that is

Will using a 14 micron filter harm my engine when using an ethanol based fuel that has been treated with Starbright ethanol fuel treatment and ring free ?

 

[Megabyte]

Mike... If you haven't had an issue with water or trash in your fuel, you are probably fine with the Wix 14 micron filter.
Your SWS motor is a bit more tolerant than the HPDI and other direct injection motors when it comes to fuel.

Also, if you haven't noticed, you have another filter under the cowl (2 if you count the VST) which is after that primary filter, and before the fuel pumps.
At least my 225 OX66 is so equipped. If I remember right, that one under the cowl is a 5 micron filter, but it could be different on your motor.
Check your shop manual to be sure.

I used to use the Racor filters with the clear bowl, but like you I never found any water or trash.
So... I switched to the blue Yamaha 10 micron filter (no clear bowl) and change it once at the beginning of the season, then again 1/2 way through.
Unless you go through a LOT of fuel, changing every 30 to 45 days is overkill.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mike Paul]

I do have the small filter under the cowling. I am glad you mentioned that. I had no idea it was a 5 micron filter.

You make a good point about my SWS being more tolerant of weaker fuels that the HPDI motors an other direct injection engines. I guess that is why some of my friends have had issues with their engines and I just keep plugging along.

I do use my boat a lot during the season but I really don't burn a tremendous amount of fuel just because I am not running way offshore. I will stretch out the time between filter changes - you are right I am probably changing way to frequently. This whole ethanol thing has just made me over cautious. As my dad used to tell me " Son this boat ain't no lawn mower - when it breaks down you are not going to be able to walk back to the shop ". He taught me to be prepare for the worse and thus I am all about preventative maintenance.

 

[Megabyte]

Mike... The ethanol laced fuels did their most 'damage' when they were first introduced into your fuel system.
Non-E10 fuels would leave a varnish coating on the inside of the tank over time.
Ethanol itself is a 'cleaning agent' that would remove that varnish when first introduced into your tank.
That is where most folks had their issues with it. At first use.
The fuel would clean the tank and fuel system, and if the filter(s) did not isolate the crud, fuel related issues happened.

Since most of us have been using E10 laced fuels for years now, the crud issue is now largely past us.
We still want to be proactive and use good filters, replace fuel system hoses with E10 friendly items when indicated, and use fuel amendments to counteract the less than perfect fuel generally found these days.

Since I wet slip, I buy my fuel on the water, so I try to buy at a busy dock that sells a lot of fuel. That way I know the fuel is generally a fresher product.
I also add amendments when I fuel up. I use Sta-Bil, Star-Tron, and RingFree at every fill-up.
Sta-Bil at the recommended amount found on the label... Star-Tron and RingFree at the maintenance amount of 1 oz per 10 gals of fuel.

So far, I've never had a fuel related issue with this regimen.