23 SE electronics box Cylinder

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seacrets

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Does anybody have a source for the hydraulic cylinder for the electronics box lid for a 2004 23 SE? Currently I have to use a bungy cord to keep it open. Thanks is advance for your help. I also need to replace the glass, however it sells as a complete unit (glass, frame and cylinder) for over $225 plus freight.
 
I bought a heavier, longer cylinder from West Marine right off the shelf years ago. I bought the boat used and the window would never stay open especially during a choppy ride. To make it work, I had to remount the anchor block a little lower because the new ram was longer. As far as the window goes, perhaps you can retrace and mount a new piece from a Lowe's or HD but finding a thick enough piece will be the challenge. I painted mine black from the inside to stop window shopping of my electronics down at the marina. Good luck. :)
 
FWIW I just bought a 2' by 4' sheet of clear Leaxn (polycarbonate) for $55 delivered. You can also get it tinted (smoke or bronze tints) and cut to size by many on-line vendors.
 
They had them at West Marine 4 years ago or so I believe in the section where the hatches and hardware are. Bring your old one with you so tou have a reference point. You need a heavier one with more resistance. 8)
 
Same thing happened to mine. So I had the dealer replace mine in 2009. Here is the information from my Parker dealer receipt.
-----
Replace Lift Piston

Part number SL31

7.5" gas Spring lift

List - $34.99 - Price paid $29.99
 
Mine came brand new not holding up the door. Is mine defective or do I need a stronger one?
It stays up while at the dock, the second I hit a wake from a kayak it slams down...it really stinks when I am making adjustments to my chart/heading/radar/sonar while underway...it slams down on my wrist...

You can barely see my 2 lowrance screens in this picture....
 

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And since I never post pictures and I'm on here with the appropriate zip drive...here's one from last weekend.

We hit the blackfish, got back...then decided it was time for a night of bass fishing. This is 4am off Fisher's Island. Clearly I need to fix the dating issue on my camera haha.
 

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I replaced the orginal clinder on my 23SE with a hydraulic clinder off a 25ft Parker this past summer. It mounted in the same holes, however, it is about 3 or 4 times stronger and has worked great so far.
Good luck
LLT
 
I also need to replace the gas strut on my electronics door. My current strut has the number SL31-20-1 printed on it and a quick Google search shows this is an Attwood part and the “20” represents 20 lbs of force. There is also an SL31-30 and an SL31-40 with 30 lbs and 40 lbs of force, respectively. Any opinions on bumping up the force? I don’t want so much force it breaks something.

I also found that West Marine sells the same size strut from Taylor for $27 and the choices are either 20 lbs of force or 40 lbs of force. My gut tells me doubling the force is not a good idea, but it’s just a gut feeling. Any opinions or does anyone know if they have larger than 20 lbs?

Thanks,
Gary
 
Same problem, same boat. West Marine shows a stainless spring that you bend to close. Works very well on my neighbor's box and is listed at $15 or so on the website.

haven't bought it yet but will try it.
 
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