blfuller123":21d0244g said:We got to run the boat for several awesome trips this fall before I got busy at work. The last trip of the season I broke a leaf spring on the trailer on the way to Freeport. I got the boat back home and got that swapped out.
About a month ago I brought her back home to replace all the leaf springs on the trailer and to do some updating. I started with redoing the battery wiring. I hated how the battery switches were mounted (switches were mounted under different panels). I decided to add voltage sensing relays and new battery switches. Now, all three battery banks are always isolated. The voltage sensing relays are tied to the engine batteries. Once the engine batteries reach 13.2 volts, the charge swaps over to the house batteries. There is also an emergency parallel switch in the event that a cranking battery goes dead. I replaced the batteries, all of the battery cables and I made a box out of starboard to mount the switches to that fits behind one of the transom panels. I also added voltage gauges that light up when the switches are turned on. I am really happy how they turned out.
The counter lower unit on had some kind of epoxy repair. It looked bad but seemed to do the job. I went to change the fluid in the lowers and the counter unit was full of water. I guess the epoxy repair didn't work so well. I ordered another lower and got it swapped out.
The Seastar steering helm pump was leaking when I first got the boat. I rebuilt the pump but by the end of the summer it was leaking again. I decided to replace it with a Uflex helm pump.
I gathered up all the pieces to remove the analog gauges and put the engine data on the Simrad. I got all of the wiring installed, and I could not get the gateway to power up on the Can bus or the NMEA side. Long story short, the Can power connectors on both engines had pins in the plugs that were corroded to the point the pin would not protrude into the female connector. I replaced those pins and solved that problem.
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