25 SE fuel tank

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My only option now is to have one locally fabricated. Most places are a week to 10 days out. My whole thing was if Parker had a unit in stock it would save me time and back in the water quicker.
I did call Parker direct. They are nice enough people and I do feel the boats are for the most part well constructed. A few stress cracks in the deck is all I can see for blemishes.
They only are given a year warranty on the tanks they buy. Parker gives 5 years.
One thing I found interesting was from 2003/4 to now Parker has changed fabricators for the fuel tanks.

I am waiting for a proposal from the boat yard. It will hopefully begin Wednesday. The sooner they rip the tank out the sooner I will get back to fishing.


Thanks guys. I still love my boat. Just annoyed.
 
My whole thing was if Parker had a unit in stock it would save me time and back in the water quicker.
Click to expand...


Tanks are being constructed differently in late model boats now...The new tanks take up more room and or offer less volume. It's a EPA Thing.

I personally have not seen one of these "New" tanks yet. It was some checking I did a while back for a Twin Vee.


I knew your outcome would be as it happened. Fuel tank installs are not cheap and I've done a bunch of them. I work with a local welder for the ones I've replaced. He and I have made improvements in the original designs to them. This was learned when redoing the 3 tanks in a SeaVee, but we took what they did and ran with it improving it even more.

Things we improved.

Step up from original 1/8in wall material to 3/16in

Improve the fuel fill fitting, by making it a sweep and not a welded together 90.

Improved the way a sending unit fastens into a tank, by building a drilled and tapped billet that is welded to the tank.

Improved the way fuel flows in the tank by venting both ends of the tank. A vent in each end is "Y" into 1 thru hull vent. This stops the problem of slow filling and gas spitting back on you.


Tanks are cleaned, sanded, cleaned again and then Coal Tar Epoxied.


With boats that the deck needs to be cut.....as opposed to a removable hatch.....You can figure double the cost. This is because it has to be put back together and I usually make it a removable hatch.

This is Heavy, strenuous, dirty work. All fuel fill hoses,vent hoses, fuel lines and clamps are replaced at the same time this stuff is apart.

FYI - 1 1/2in fuel hose is easily $10ft. Fuel tanks...Yes $10gal is average for what you have...The tanks I describe run $11.50 -$12gal. But think about it....There is 1/3 MORE material. Speaking of material [alum] Alum is a commodity...I've seen a alum order change a easy $25 overnight due to this.

Your boat is and has been out of warranty. I don't understand why you think Parker should do something? Hey....You have a weld that failed on a piece that lasted a long time that was built by someone else.

It's not like just changing a defective pump....This is a very invasive job. The last one I did that had to have the deck cut, build a new hatch using Coosa and using the original non skid skin with a tank that was 120gal and all the improvements that I listed above was almost $5K
 
Warthog,
You make all valid points. My only justification is I don't want to spend the money.....Your recommendations on the tank fabrications are all noted and I think I will follow that advice. I have to ask for the fuel at half throttle when filling due to the back ups.

Where else to vent then to fellow Parker owners! no pun intended! I will have some photo's during the project and will post some in the projects section when we get the before, during and after.....

Talk Soon,


Nick
 
Why can't you replace the pick-up tube and leave the baffle in the tank? Any way to tuck the corner of it under another baffle to hold it in place? Seems a shame to go to all that work and expense when the tank is OK otherwise....
 
Good Question. The tank is a "V" shape and the baffle isn't resting clean on the bottom. Also, it's rough welds are scratching on the bottom of the tank. In rough seas it could easily happen again smashing against the Pick up tube. For me, I fish 20-30 miles off shore, I don't want to have any doubt about the shape of the boat. It's to short of a season in the north east to risk it in my opinion.
 
This is probably a dumb question but could your repair facility...

1. Drain the tank and store the fuel.
2. Cut a hole in the deck for a large aftermarket hatch.
3. Cut a big hole in the tank and extract the baffle.
4. Seal up the hole in the tank. This is really the big ????.
5. Put a hatch in the deck.
 
Honestly... I would not put a tank hatch in the deck.
You're only asking for leaks and trouble down the road.

Yes, it makes it easier to remove the tank.
No, once it's fixed right and the deck is sealed properly, you should never have to worry about it again.
 
The plan is to pump the fuel to re-use yes.

Other than that. New tank, new deck, fresh glass and gel-coat. All new fasteners. They did a little damage getting console up and also noticed around the T-Top flanges were damp in the deck. Maybe a small blessing in disguise to get it all fixed.

Even with a hatch, all the main rigging and console etc would have to be removed. Safe to say I won't have the boat if she ever needs another repair of this magnitude. 2 small hatches. One over the fill and vent. Another over the pick up.
 
For anyone interested, here is the first phase of the project. Hoping to have the tank removed today for a new one to be built.
 

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Here is the tank out. I feel that foaming these tanks in is the easy way out and I wish they used a better system to fasten them in. I think they would last much longer.
 

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Seems like foaming tanks in is a pretty common practice, but it can cause issues if moisture gets between the foam and bare aluminum.......

Are you planning to install the new tank in a different way?
 
The boat yard doing the work hasn't decided on how they will install the new tank. They did say there was 3-4 gallons of water in the sealed compartment....I guess it's sealed in case of a fuel leak it wont travel to the bilge? I just think there has to be a better way....
 
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