2520 Electronics Overhaul

[Rayman]

I'm doing a complete electronics package on my 2520 bought a couple of weeks ago (BTW I now know the answer to my cable run question about where every wire goes and how it gets there). The boat had some minimalist equipment that was fine for the previous owners use, but my ocean fishing needed a bit more. I'll post things as they move forward if it's of interest (or not).

The wiring from Parker was done well; the work from the dealer was horrible (boat was purchased in Tarrytown, NY). Auto wire, spade terminals (some doubled up), AC panel was wired with one wire to the refrigerator and battery charger on the same (battery charger) breaker. Charger was installed on the ceiling of the starboard box over the refrigerator, and was clearly fried by heat.

Here are a few pics of the starting, and removal, state!

I'm maintaining all of the wiring in case someone is interested in the equipment.

 

[miketheserviceguy]

I'm doing a complete electronics package on my 2520 bought a couple of weeks ago (BTW I now know the answer to my cable run question about where every wire goes and how it gets there). The boat had some minimalist equipment that was fine for the previous owners use, but my ocean fishing needed a bit more. I'll post things as they move forward if it's of interest (or not).

The wiring from Parker was done well; the work from the dealer was horrible (boat was purchased in Tarrytown, NY). Auto wire, spade terminals (some doubled up), AC panel was wired with one wire to the refrigerator and battery charger on the same (battery charger) breaker. Charger was installed on the ceiling of the starboard box over the refrigerator, and was clearly fried by heat.

Here are a few pics of the starting, and removal, state!

I'm maintaining all of the wiring in case someone is interested in the equipment.

Those pictures just made me throw up in my mouth a little bit. I especially like the red side of the duplex wire that changes to black on the other side of a non heat shrink but connector. Good luck!

 

[Reel Addiction]

Where did u get the fridge set up?

 

[Megabyte]

We *love* projects here at CP.

 

[TWOBOATER]

That red to black is a fuse holder, and you don't really need heat-shrink connectors unless the wires are wet like on a bilge pump.

 

[warthog5]

and you don't really need heat-shrink connectors unless the wires are wet like on a bilge pump.

TOTALLY Disagree... A boat is in a wet environment. Moisture will get into the barrels of automotive connectors. This causes resistance.

Boats have moisture in them just sitting in the yard from temp changes.

Using Automotive connectors is "Dropping the dollar to pick up a nickel."

I had a Anchor light to install last week. It came with a bunch of Automotive connectors. I didn't even open the bag they were in.

Just threw them in the trash.

 

[TWOBOATER]

It's odd that not even the top-end builders use heat-shrink connectors. you must know something they don't. I work in the industry and have NEVER had a problem with regular crimp connectors in a properly enclosed electrical panel. The cost for mfg'rs would be prohibitive as well.

 

[Rayman]

I have to confess I haven't been keeping up with CP viewing, so here's a belated response and update

Whether it's a fuse holder or not, changing colors is not my idea of a good install

Whether it needs a shrink or crimp, a twist with funky electrical tape doesn't make it

Things have changed a LOT, and maybe I can find the discipline to file some more pics, but now its:

All Raymarine:
24" HD Color Radome
HS5 Network Switch
AIS 350
CP300 Depth Finder w/ 1000W transducer
e125 MFD at helm for chart / fish finder
e95 MFD at helm for radar, engine data, fusion 700 iPod control
e95 MFD in cockpit for fish finder, waypoints on the fly

Electrical redone with 2 Lifeline group 31 batteries, Bluesea Circuit Plus switch, ACR, and new BlueSea panel at the helm.

More to follow

 

[Rayman]

One other reply: the fridge was done by the same people who did the bad wiring, but they did it by turning the pedestal around and cutting the opening. I'll show you in some pics how it looks now. I'm not going to use that seat and will build a utility cabinet on top.

 

[kidfreediver]

On the ruling of electrical connectors it is always recommended to use crimped connectors with electrical inhibitor " grease". Where water gathers (like the bilge) heat shrinks are a must to cover the insulation of the cable so water penetration doesn't happen. U have to options use a lot of grease or soder " tinning" the cable strains then applying grease into the crimped connector. All of my battery connections are like this which make finding trouble easier.

 

[shawnee83]

I'm no expert by any means, but everytime I wire anything on my boat I use nothing but heat shrink connections. Maybe overkill in some cases but like Warthog said, a boat is a wet environment and when compounded by salt water/air it makes corrosion even more of an issue. I'm not familiar with the grease, as I said no expert, so I've just found it easier to use to heat shrink connectors and I've never had an issue with wiring afterwards. I understand manufactures not doing it but for me, it's worth the extra money to not have issues later.