Bottom Paint Questions

[TimeFlies]

Last year I bought a new Parker 23SE from my local dealer (TriState) which was bottom painted. They told me they used an ablative paint that was not a multi-season paint. The paint looks great, but they recommend I re-paint it again. It's on a trailer (bunk) and I don't have blocks, so what would you recommend I do this year? All of the paint looks to be in good shape with the exception of my trim tabs, transducer and the very bottom of my lower unit (which sits in the water) so I'm wondering what is the easiest way to re-paint (or not). They said the paint goes "dormant" and won't work unless I re-paint. Thanks

 

[pelagic2530]

without knowing what paint was used, its hard to tell. personally, i was of the opinion that "ablative" paint worked until it "ablated" away, exposing new paint as it went. but i could be wrong. We use Interlux Trilux paint, and were on our 3rd season with minor touch ups each year. there was a bit of a slime coat this last season, but certainly nothing more frequent use wouldnt have taken care of if you have the ability to pull the boat whenever, i would touch it up where needed, splash for another season, and check it mid season and haul if necessary.

 

[DaleH]

They said the paint goes "dormant" and won't work unless I re-paint.

They are 100% correct! The biocide in the paint leeches out over the year, leaving the color pigments intact. Only true multi-season ablatives, costing upwards from $250/gallon, would allow you to skip a year.

You are best served to sand and re-paint. What I do around bunks is to paint all of the hull I can first. Then I raise the hull off the bunk on 1-side only, but a bottle jack from the frame cross member or supports of suitable blocks, but pressing against a 2"x12" by 4-6' long piece of wood with another smaller hardwood block where the jack part presses against. I also put wax paper or freezer waxed paper against the painted hull part where the board sits against. At no time put your hand or body between the bunks and the hull! Safety first! Also use a safety block. Paint, let dry for an hour or two, then do the other side.

I find the CPP ablative from West Marine or the Sea Bowld from Boater's WOrld, both around $100/gallon on sale work pretty darn well, less the repainting required annually. You should be using around 1/3rd to 1/2/gallon per year for the new coat. I typically hit the waterline-to-down-around2' area (the 'wear' area) with 2 coats.

 

[pelagic2530]

They said the paint goes "dormant" and won't work unless I re-paint.

They are 100% correct! The biocide in the paint leeches out over the year, leaving the color pigments intact. Only true multi-season ablatives, costing upwards from $250/gallon, would allow you to skip a year.

You are best served to sand and re-paint. What I do around bunks is to paint all of the hull I can first. Then I raise the hull off the bunk on 1-side only, but a bottle jack from the frame cross member or supports of suitable blocks, but pressing against a 2"x12" by 4-6' long piece of wood with another smaller hardwood block where the jack part presses against. I also put wax paper or freezer waxed paper against the painted hull part where the board sits against. At no time put your hand or body between the bunks and the hull! Safety first! Also use a safety block. Paint, let dry for an hour or two, then do the other side.

I find the CPP ablative from West Marine or the Sea Bowld from Boater's WOrld, both around $100/gallon on sale work pretty darn well, less the repainting required annually. You should be using around 1/3rd to 1/2/gallon per year for the new coat. I typically hit the waterline-to-down-around2' area (the 'wear' area) with 2 coats.

i do stand corrected. i just checked the price of trilux, and its about what Dale said. adding to what Dale said, i would definately look at the higher end paints when repainting, as, like i said, they last alot longer, and you dont have to repaint each year. just make sure you clean the bottom well beforehand

 

[TimeFlies]

Thanks guys. DaleH - I can't visualize your explanation. Are you suggesting to use a bottle jack to lift one side of the boat? I have a 3/4 ton floor jack, but I'm not sure what to put between the top of the jack and the hull so it won't put a hole in the boat (maybe that's were your 2 X 12 come into play)? If I could get my trailer onto a flat hard surface (like our community marina parking lot), I could use the floor jack pretty easily but I'm confused were to place the jack. Thanks for the help.

 

[Jersey Jim]

There are great do-it-yourself tips on yachtpaint's website (link below). They have a section on antifouling compatibility for when mixing brands. I particularly like their "Boat Painting Guide" section on the left of their homepage. Once in the section, the individual topic headings are not clickable, but the tiny arrows to the right of each. There is a wealth of knowledge under the the 12 topics listed in the "antifouling" section of the Boat Painting Guide.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/default.asp

Jim