Crack on top of transom

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MikeF

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Hi Guys,

I have been looking at boats for months and can not seem to find the right boat. One boat that I did like had a crack about a 1/16 of an inch across the top of the notched part where the motor mounts. The boat in question is a 21SE.

Is something structurally wrong? Seller said it just crack and he puts gel coat in it from time to time. What are your thoughts?
 
Is the crack just along the top of the 1/2" thick 'lip' of the transom notch on either side of the motor? If so, I have had that problem on both sides of my transom and have read a couple of others have the same problem.

As long as it is treated promptly and sealed off so that no water can get into the transom, I don't think its a problem.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the fact that a crack appeared there. However, if the crack has been there a while and the owner hasn't done anything about it, I'd be concerned that the owner hasn't really taken care of the boat and who knows what other problems they have ignored.

-- Tom
 
I have similar cracking to what yall describe on mine. Take a pic and send it to the factory and post it on here for the best answer.

These are the transom cracks on my '91 1700 that Eric at Parker said were not a big deal...just seal and gel coat up.
 

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Sure would be good to have pix's with questions like this. Usually a notched transom has fillers along the top. That is where the hull and top cap mate.
 
The pictures posted above are exactly what it looks like. Cracks like that on both sides of motor. I was told gelcoat had been put in a couple times but crack re appears. As it sits now it is not sealed. Can that cause the transom to rot? Can it be fixed permanently?
 
Boat is a 05 that was used by a guide. 1400 hours on boat and motor.

What do you guys think a boat like that is worth.

leaning post
VHF and antenna
fishfinder chartplotter
with a trailer
 
I'd fix it one time and be done with it. Gelcoat isn't a sealant nor is it flexible. Repair that crack permanently by Dremmeling crevice end to end with a 1/8 bit. Fill the remaining void with a good quality beige sealant. I get the beige stuff used to seal deck joints on GWs from a local Grady White dealer.
 
grouperjim":1rfzn777 said:
Gelcoat isn't a sealant nor is it flexible.
So true! It is a brittle as can be, like 2-3x the tensile strength of the underlying layup.

I get the beige stuff used to seal deck joints on GWs from a local Grady White dealer.
That sounds like a great tip. Do you know offhand if it is a poly product like 3M 5200?
 
DaleH":285wtxzb said:
I get the beige stuff used to seal deck joints on GWs from a local Grady White dealer.
That sounds like a great tip. Do you know offhand if it is a poly product like 3M 5200?

I still had this tube laying around..........this is the product Grady uses. It's silicone. I redid my pulpit when the factory caulk deteriorated. This has held up for 5 years so far.
 

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Would a crack like that discourage any of you guys from purchasing the boat?
 
That's a tough question.

The responses here by others with the same boat seem to indicate that this is a design issue that results in more or less a cosmetic crack due to flexing where the true transom meets the cap. If this is the hull you have your heart set on and they are all the same then make your best deal and go for it.

But on the other hand if this design issue makes you uncomfortable then you might want to expand your search to other model boats. Clear as mud.......i know.
 
MikeF":1591cpzx said:
Would a crack like that discourage any of you guys from purchasing the boat?

It would certainly dampen my enthusiasm.
 
I have my mind made on a parker 21 or 23 se. Two things I don't want are any kind of rails or bottom paint. Those are also the two things all the boats I have found seem to have. ...
 
Bow rails are easy enough to remove, don't let that stop you. When I bought mine it had the high bow rail which really got in the way with fly fishing. They are just mounted with bolts from underneath and easy to take off. I was even able to sell mine for a couple hundred bucks.

-- Tom
 
FWIW my 2004 23 had the low rails. Small but easy enough to remove and get rid of the holes.
 

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I would caution against using silicone sealant on the transom. Silicone is a nice, soft water proof filler, but it has limited adhesion and no structural effect. If I were simply filling the space I would use thickened epoxy.

I have a 99 with a big DF 250 on the transom and there are no such cracks. To me it looks like your glass lay-up is separating from the plywood core. Looks like it needs attention, perhaps injection with epoxy/polyester and maybe some tabbing.

While the boat is out of the water, stand on your cavitation plate and bounce up and down. If you see movement in that crack.... then you've confirmed you need repair

Good luck
 
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