does anyone have a answer please

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bikerronzo

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so ive bin tying to figure out what was the second positive wire coming from my engine i believe i found out what it is isolator lead now im tying to add a blueseas acr relay kit so do i remove the wire or can i possibly just leave it not connected to anything
 
I placed the auxiliary positive feed along with the main feed on the battery switch for my Blue Seas add a battery acr kit. This allows the acr to do its thing. It's been running fine for me. I do know someone who eliminated the auxiliary power feed altogether in their Blue Seas ACR setup and have also had fine results too.
 
thanks for responce id just like to add the main reason im adding the acr is because i keep gettin a voltage drop in my gps and im trying to stop it from `shutin off when i restart the boat i need to isolate the two batterys upon starting just dont know whats the best way to go with the yamaha isolator wire
 
I installed a Blue Sea VSR on my 2013 Parker 23 DVCC. The boat has two batteries, a house and a starting battery. I connected the main charging lead to the start battery and connected the auxiliary charging lead to the house battery.

The ACR will combine the batteries once the starting battery reaches a high enough voltage, but both will charge independently. My understanding is that the auxiliary charging lead puts out less charging current.

With a two battery setup and a motor with the auxiliary charging lead having an VSR is somewhat redundant. But I feel that redundant is good! The switch that comes with the VSR is also useful to be able to combine the batteries if needed.

When starting the engine there can be a voltage drop, but it will be much more pronounced if you have any corroded connections or if the wire is too small for the amperage over the wire length. I would start by systematically examining all of the wire connections and terminals you have to make sure they are tight and free of corrosion.

Is the battery good?
 
thanks matt i just finally got it done i left the isolater wire off but i will put it on the house battery now can i ask u if connected the optional wire from the start/key they say that will isolate the batterys while starting this was my first wire job was pretty easy but im just not to sure about hooking up that connection
 
The Blue Sea VSR has an option to hold open (no current flow) when powered by the starting relay.

I did not hook up the hold open feature and have no trouble with my electronics shutting down when I start the engine. But my electronics are all powered by the house battery and none by the starting battery.

Most people do not power the hold open feature on the few VSR installs I have seen.

If your electronics are are powered by the house battery and the engine is started from a separate battery, I really do not think your electronics should shut down on starting unless something else is wrong.
 
thanks again matt i just dropped the boat in yesterday havent tested out the gps out yet will try it out tomm. i just hope when i restart the boat that my gps will not shut off anymore thats the main reason i installed the new switch and relay have a good one.
 
Could this be explained a little more simpler?
I too have a condition that causes my gps to re power up upon starting my engine.
But it only happens sporadically and I would love to fix it.
I thought it was a problem related to having the battery switch on either one or the other battery.
I still haven't figured out which.

What is the vsr and the ace you guys are talking about?
 
i keep gettin a voltage drop in my gps and im trying to stop it from `shutin off when i restart the boat i need to isolate the two batterys upon starting just dont know whats the best way to go with the yamaha isolator wire

Yes The GPS is shutting off because your Spiking it. This happens when you start the motor with GPS ON and the Start battery is shared by the House loads.

This is a typical setup ...But it's Wrong.

You actually do not need the Add a Battery. I prefer the BEP setup, as it is a cleaner setup..... But you don't need that either.

You already have the AUX. Charge wire to charge the House Battery.

What you need is some rewiring with your batteries.

A Perko switch and others like them is really a screwy thing. You have 2 batteries..... So in your mind you have a Start & a House.

But the way the switch is, is that No matter which battery you select.....It's a Start battery because it feeds the motor.

You have to make the Start battery feed the motor and the House battery be independent of the Start and just feed the House.

The AUX. wire from the motor will charge the House battery.


Thats the best I can explain it here.

But this is what the BEP Cluster does. We eliminate the Aux. wire, because the relay decides which battery or batteries get the charge.





BEP Cluster Switch.

You start your day by turning the Start switch and the House switch to ON.
At the end of the day you turn them both OFF.

It doesn't get any simpler than that. You don't have to remember to turn from Batt 1 when going out and switch to Batt 2 on the way back in. Just something else that you have to remember.

OK so what goes on with it is done all automatically thru the VSR [Voltage Sensitive Relay]

The Relay is in a closed position. As soon as you hit the key to crank the motor the relay opens, due to sensing a large surge of current.

Ok the motor is cranked and running now. The relay is still open. The Alt is charging the Start battery until it reaches a set voltage and charge.

Then the relay closes and is back charging Both the Start & House Battery.

Now another feature that happened when you hit the key is your electronics were ON and wired from the House battery. This will stop any spiking of the Electronics. They don't like to be spiked!

OK...Now your out sitting on the beach. The motor is OFF, but you have the Radio playing for hours. The Relay senses the drop and opens the relay again. The radio is still playing, but the relay just disconnected the Start battery out of the circuit so that it stays at Full charge to start the motor.

When you get ready to leave the beach and crank the motor the alt will charge the Start battery first and when it's back up, the relay will close and charge the House battery.

There is one more switch on the Cluster. It is the Combine switch. Think of that as Jumper Cables without having to dig them out and hook them up. This switch would normally be in the OFF position, until you need a boost on the start battery. Then turn it to ON. After the motor is running turn it back OFF.

Everything is all Automatic. No thinking about it. Your batteries will have a much better charge in them.

The unit pictured below is just slightly larger than a Perko switch. So it doesn't take up much room and takes a LOT less room than the Blue Seas version. It looks cleaner too, due to the cables that are needed on the Blue Seas version.

100_2497.jpg
 
capt matt said,
When starting the engine there can be a voltage drop, but it will be much more pronounced if you have any corroded connections or if the wire is too small for the amperage over the wire length. I would start by systematically examining all of the wire connections and terminals you have to make sure they are tight and free of corrosion.

Is the battery good?


I Agree.

No need to change factory Parker/Yamaha wiring if batteries/wiring is in good shape.
My electronics never shut off while starting moter, and livewell is running.

Might remove selector switch and clean connections on back.
 
Some of this depends on how much you want to learn to do this yourself vs. someone installing for you. An ACR (Auto Charging Relay) will keep the batteries connected if they are charged up to a certain voltage. I installed the BlueSea eSeries Dual Circuit Plus on my 2520, with a Lifeline 3100T for starting and 3100 for house loads. The switch isolates the 2 circuits, so without the ACR you'd be fine as far as isolation is concerned. But to get the benefits of having the engines charge the house when running, enter the ACR which, after the start battery reaches that voltage, connects them and starts charging the house battery.

All fine when running, but if you stop for a drift and then start the engines, you have the possibility of the ACR acting as a bridge and browning out some of your electronics. The solution for this is either a manual control at the helm which sends a voltage to the ACR's "start isolation" terminal, or a wire from the outboards' starting relay that does the same thing during startup.

Mine was complicated by the twin engines, so I installed a diode bridge which prevents one starting switch from trying to send voltage to the other engine. BTW BlueSea has that setup nicely illustrated here: https://www.bluesea.com/support/article ... wo_Engines

Hope that helps :)
 
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