'Ducers

[jeffnick]

Here's the results of a couple transducer experiments.

1) We'd been having trouble keeping a lock on the bottom and couldn't seem to get rid of a rooster tail so I thought I'd try putting the 'ducer inside the boat. Not wanting to get all fancy, I simply used 5200 to stick a piece of PVC pipe to the hull after I had jerry rigged a way to fix the transom mounted 'ducer to the pipe. I filled the pipe with antifreeze because the weather was going to get cold before I could test it, then put a cap on the pipe. Result = perfectly operating depth sounder down to a couple feet that doesn't lose lock at WOT and no rooster tail. These pics were taken after a Fl cruise which included some pretty enthusiastic offshore runs, and the fluid level is still fine. I should replace the antifreeze with mineral oil and seal it all up, but probably won't.

2) I've been looking for a way to attach/glue a starboard plate to the transom so I don't have to drill holes in the boat to attach a transducer directly to the transom...I'd attach the 'ducer to the plate. You may be aware that even 5200 will not stick to starboard - 'gluing' Starboard to the transom seemed like an impossibility. Then one day I noticed that Doug had put up some hooks on the door frame; they came with those 3M Command Strips, and were holding up unbelievably well on the Starboard door frame.

I got some water resistant Command Strips at WalMart and used them to stick a piece of Starboard to the transom. I mounted the Starboard as if it were a transducer, having it protrude about 1" below the bottom of the boat (that's 1" on the high side...it was considerably deeper on the low side). I then took the boat to the lake and ran it 35 mph. The rooster tail was awesome and the Command Strip mounted Starboard stayed put for 2 outings, until I removed it. I can't guarantee you'll have the same results but if the inside the hull experiment above hadn't panned out, this is the way I'd test 'ducer positions on the transom. It also shows that the Command Strips are a good way to attach other stuff to Starboard.

Here we see the Starboard 'glued' to the transom w/ the Command Strips protruding for easy removal.

Side view.

I'm in the process of removing the Starboard here...you pull the tab gently and the stickum lets loose.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Check this out for gluing starboard to stuff.

http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB2/vie ... php?t=3721

The command strips look promising.

 

[jeffnick]

I don't have any way to cut that V groove


What do you do for water temp, finding temp breaks etc for fishing?

We don't fish.

 

[pelagic2530]

jeffnick- im kinda confused as to exactly what the inside mount is doing???? you say its a transom mount transducer, and its inside the hull? so the ducer is shooting through the hull? im also confused as to the purpose of the antifreeze. what is the transducer reading, just depth or is it actually giving a bottom profile? if you could explain the situation and method a bit more that would be great . sorry for my incompetancy, i just cant figure out whats going on here :lol:

 

[Bryan 2530]

I don't have any way to cut that V groove

Router with dovetail bit.

We don't fish.

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[jeffnick]

jeffnick- im kinda confused as to exactly what the inside mount is doing???? you say its a transom mount transducer, and its inside the hull? so the ducer is shooting through the hull? im also confused as to the purpose of the antifreeze. what is the transducer reading, just depth or is it actually giving a bottom profile? if you could explain the situation and method a bit more that would be great . sorry for my incompetancy, i just cant figure out whats going on here :lol:

The inside mount is an alternative to the transom mount, even using the same transom mount transducer. With the transducer mounted inside, shooting through the hull, the unit performs exactly as it would with the transducer mounted on the transom (except for water temp and speed readings if it's so equipped) meaning you don't have to put any holes in your transom. A shoot through the hull installation generally works better at higher speeds and does not subject the transducer to potential strikes from stuff in the water.

My system mimics a standard shoot through the hull installation, except I used the transom mount transducer and hardware store plumbing instead of a 'shoot thru' puck transducer and associated specialized mounting hardware. Water would work as a means to 'connect' the transducer to the hull, but standard installations call for mineral oil because it isn't subject to evaporation and will not freeze. My installation was to be temporary so I didn't want to bother with the mess of mineral oil cleanup if it didn't work. I used antifreeze because I didn't want water to freeze and distort my plumbing. An alternative to the immersion method is to just epoxy the transducer directly to the hull, but this doesn't lend itself to adjustments if the DS doesn't work as expected.

Bottom line = if you're not happy with your transom mounted transducer performance or installation requirements, for under $10 you can move it inside and have it shoot thru the hull and get the the same performance. Note however, that if your transducer includes temp and speed functions, you will lose these features if it's mounted inside.

 

[jeffnick]

Well, I tried the dovetail thing. It's a mess and it didn't work for me.

Borrow a bit, or buy one for $15. Cut the groove w/ a router (if you have one). Fill the groove w/ 5200, leaving it a little high. Slap the starboard on the gelcoat, then use tape to secure it (or it will slide). It's hard to know how much to push on the starboard for a good fit; make sure to tape the openings of the V or 5200 will dribble out there. Let it sit for 3 days, and the starboard comes off with the tape.

3M says the 5200 needs moisture and heat to cure. The 5200 in the dovetail groove evidently still thought it was in the tube, because it never set up.

Of course, YMMV.

 

[johnsw]

Interesting experiment. How did you mount the transducer to the inside of the pipe? Is the transducer angle adjustable in any way? How did you secure the pipe to the hull, and how much physical contact between the pipe and the hull?

John S.

 

[Bryan 2530]

Interesting......

Just FYI, regular 5200 takes 7 days to fully cure.
Fast cure =24-48 hrs.

 

[jeffnick]

Just FYI, regular 5200 takes 7 days to fully cure.
Fast cure =24-48 hrs.
There you go!

It's been a slow day for this retired fellow, I got the trash out and the new drapes up so I grabbed a beer and pulled the 'ducer out of it's (temporary) home for a couple pics.

I mounted the 'ducer in the pipe with an oak bracket fashioned to mimic the original bracket, only contoured to fit the inside of the pipe instead of the transom. Two screws fix the bracket to the pipe, then the original hardware is used to mount the 'ducer to the bracket. It was supposed to be temporary so I didn't even run the nut on the 'hinge' all the way - it's a self locker and a pain to get off. My stock of Starboard is depleted, or I might have used it for the bracket...but I doubt the oak will rot in the antifreeze?

The 'ducer is probably over an inch from touching the hull, that's why we use the fluid in the pipe. The 'ducer can be adjusted fore and aft or laterally, but it ended up being close enough for us on the first try.

I could have cut the pipe at an angle to have it perpendicular when mounted to thull (the pipe is attached to the hull by a bead of 5200) but for some reason I had a piece of 30° PVC that had been cut at about the right angle, so I used it.

and as luck would have it (I'm a very lucky guy), this allowed a container for the antifreeze so I could take the pipe mounted ducer in/out without worrying about sealing everything up. The only seal is the pipe to the hull, everything else is 'open'.

As a ragbagger (sailboater), I learned to 'just make it work and call it temporary until it fails, then fix it right' so this jerry rigged thru the hull 'ducer, although temporary, will undoubtedly end up (just as it is) being permanent, unless it fails.