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school skipper

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Just finishing up with my first season in my 2320 and can't say enough how happy I am with this boat!!!
A couple questions as I get ready to put her away for a few months?

1) Recommendation for easiest way to remove yellow water stains below the water line? I trailer but the unpainted bottom does have a light tinge to it.. I've used Y-10 in the past and it works well however, wondering if there's anything else comparable that is easier to apply by spraying on?

2) Winterizing 2006 Yamaha 250 four stroke? Have always done my own service on the yamaha 150 two stroke the past 14 years without an issue. From what I've researched, looks like a little easier and less intensive..
Stabilize fuel for last few trips
Flush with fresh water
change Lower gear oil
pull prop inspect and grease spindle
grease all fittings
coat with silicone corrosion prevention spray
engine oil change ( I did one 20 hours ago so skipping)
Pull Batteries check fluid store indoors and trickle charge monthly
Anything else??

3) Sinker chips in Deck gel coat..?


Happy Holidays to all!
Already counting the days till spring!
 
school skipper":8xb0uo5v said:
Just finishing up with my first season in my 2320 and can't say enough how happy I am with this boat!!!
A couple questions as I get ready to put her away for a few months?

1) Recommendation for easiest way to remove yellow water stains below the water line? I trailer but the unpainted bottom does have a light tinge to it.. I've used Y-10 in the past and it works well however, wondering if there's anything else comparable that is easier to apply by spraying on?

2) Winterizing 2006 Yamaha 250 four stroke? Have always done my own service on the yamaha 150 two stroke the past 14 years without an issue. From what I've researched, looks like a little easier and less intensive..
Stabilize fuel for last few trips
Flush with fresh water
change Lower gear oil
pull prop inspect and grease spindle
grease all fittings
coat with silicone corrosion prevention spray
engine oil change ( I did one 20 hours ago so skipping)
Pull Batteries check fluid store indoors and trickle charge monthly
Anything else??

3) Sinker chips in Deck gel coat..?


Happy Holidays to all!
Already counting the days till spring!
Click to expand...

Congrats on a successful first season!

1) Very easy to get off.
expensive solution: starbrite instant hull cleaner
Less expensive solution: WestMarine brand instant hull cleaner
Cheap solution: The Works toilet bowl cleaner
All three of these options are wipe/spray on and immediately spray off. They work like magic.

2) can't really comment on 4S winterizing but it looks like you're spot on.

3) any Parker dealer can sell you a small container of Parker gel coat. Use small brush to dab gel into chipped spots. Make sure to get the Parker Interior gel coat WITH WAX for easier use. You won't have to put PVA over your touch ups for the gel to fully cure.

Happy holidays!
 
FSR.. fiberglass stain remover. Great product no scrubbing needed.. just apply wait for stain to disappear and hose off.
 
I've used Marykates On-Off for hull stains... BUT... if you are on a trailer protect the trailer from any hull cleaner.
Cover the trailer rails with plastic and/or have a garden hose ready.
Some hull cleaners can damage the finish on galvanized and aluminum if left on too long.
 
I've used Marykates On-Off for hull stains... BUT... if you are on a trailer protect the trailer from any hull cleaner.
Cover the trailer rails with plastic and/or have a garden hose ready.
Some hull cleaners can damage the finish on galvanized and aluminum if left on too long.
Click to expand...

yup. the stuff works great on the "scuzz line".

winterizing. we keep our boats with outboards in a climate controlled warehouse over the winter but do everything you mention nonetheless - i actually keep battery maintainers attached. not sure if there are additional precautions needed for your 4s if leaving out in the cold. i do add a little extra sta-bil to my last fuel up and engine flush run before putting her way for the winter. not sure where you are, but where we are (Cape Cod / S New England / NY) its typically a 5 month over winter sit, so the extra sta-bil (as i was told) is a good idea and something you'll be happy about come spring. other than this and "normal" periodic maintenance - many may years with great spring results and no issues related to winter storage...:)

deck dings...depends on what you call a ding. just gelcoat chips, like stated above - call parker, get some matching gelcoat etc.
 

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I have been using a product called slimy grimy for about 15 years. its disolves stains with little or no rubbing and it is not an acid like on off. No gloves no fumes. It comes in spray bottles or you can order a container of crystals and mix up what you need with water. Great stuff
 
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the feedback! Looks like I have a few options for the stain removal that appear to be a bit less labor intensive then the Y-10 I've been using. It worked great on my old boat that was bottom painted when I only had a small area above the water line but cleaning the entire hull of the Parker seems like a daunting task! Sounds like I'm on the right track with the 4S winterizing..

One more Question... Looking for some feed back on dual battery set ups others have on there boats?
My Batteries are on a two switch set up with a circuit breaker tied in. One switch is a on/off house for all electronics and the other is a battery selector (1-2-BOTH) for starting Motor. When I purchased the boat last spring I replaced one battery. During the course of the season, my older battery seemed to have gotten to the point of not holding a charge and the new one now seems to be starting to do the same.. After a trip I will trailer home clean boat and turn both switches to off.. Within 5-7 days, when I switch on battery selector switch, my voltage on older battery is drained and the new battery is reading about 11.2-11.5 volts. The Motor will only crank if switch set to BOTH. Obviously with the colder weather setting in, the drain has been quicker during down time... I have been told that I need to eliminate the two switch system and go with the single Blue Sea Switch. My old Seaswirl had a single selector switch and I never had one issue with battery drainage when switch was off.. Matter of fact, I went an unheard of 11 years before having to replace a battery!.. There were even times where I left the switch on and didn't have a issue with drained batteries when heading out on the boat a week later..
 
Without seeing your setup, I cannot comment on the switch arrangement.
As for batteries, my suggestion would be to always replace them in pairs. Never one at a time.
 
I have 2011 2320 with 225 I have one switch and a circuit breaker 2 batts. I talked to Eric from Parker he told me to leave my switch on 1, I have sat for 8hrs with electronics on and never had a problem. I don't remove my batteries from boat only charge in the spring never ever had a problem. I have another boat with 2 switches one cranking one house 1 switch set on 1 the other on both. I fully charged both batteries this spring took them to a marine batt dealer tested both 1 was just a hare low replaced it, he said would leave it. I would say if going to 1 switch I would look at BEP.
 
I have to agree w/ Megabyte about replacing batteries as a "matched set. It's the old "weak link" idea. Once a battery starts to go south it draws the good battery. Then, when the charger or alternator tries to recharge, it cooks the new battery in its effort to recharge the old, defective battery, effectively killing you new battery.

At 11.5v your battery is completely discharged. Batteries should never be discharged below 50%...12.2v. These readings should be taken "at rest".

Google State of Charge 12 volt batteries and you will learn more about batteries than you want.
 
Hmmm..
Makes sense about weakest link theory but been dealing with this battery issue since I first purchased the boat and had my local dealer go through it.. At that time they recommended replacing one battery as the other was only a year old and strong .. From the start was having problems with draining and after much aggravation and my trouble shooting through process of elimination it was determined that the new battery had a bad cell.. Thought my problem was solved but these ghost issues have continued.. Very puzzled.. I had my old boat for 14 years without any issues at all (even when I replaced one battery at a time.. Only difference I'm seeing is the battery switch set up??.. I'll try and post a few pictures of my set up for a clearing understanding of what I have.. Also, the local dealer that serviced the boat for me is the same dealer who sold it when it was new and did the battery set up..
Thanks Guys
 
what about checking out the impeller and change out the fuel/water separator ?
 
Yup.. On that..
Water pump new last fall and I usually change fuel separator and fill with fresh gas prior to spring start up...
The only other thing I've heard but not on my list is to disassemble steering linkage (also brand new past spring) at motor and clean and lube? Thoughts on that one?
Thanks,
ViperTom
 
School, I'm a little confused on your battery set up so looking forward to your pics of that. Anyway, on mine I have a single switch with a battery in each jump seat. In my starboard side jump seat where my switch is located is my start battery and that also has several smaller wires connected directly to it. I don't know what they all are yet but I will as I'm getting ready to dig into that side while doing a project involving moving that battery. If I leave my battery selector switched on to numbe 1 battery for the periods of time while I'm not using the boat, it will drain down my battery. The remote spot has a small power indicator light that stays on for example. Perhaps the point to my story that may apply to your situation is that you may have some similar items drawing small amounts of power with the battery switched on and or some items are directly wired to one of your battery's that therefore are bypassing the switch? I just replaced one of my battery's back in May or so with a blue top Optima AGM and my other is a regular lead acid. I've not had any issues. With respect to winter storage, I do many of the thing mentioned already. I heavily treat my last amount fuel with Stabil and Seafoam along with decent amount of Yamalube. I run my tank down as low as possible (I shoot for less than 20gals in tank). Other than that, I just flush the engine as I do every time I use the boat but I do make sure I store the motor all the way down so it drains and also so water doesn't have a chance to sit in the foot of the lower where it can freeze and crack the housing. That's all I have to do here in NC as the winter weather is not that harsh and it only sits up for about 3 months. I always save the lower unit oil change, water pump(every other season on pump), engine oil change, new plugs and fuel filters for the spring before use. That way any condensation etc from sitting over the winter gets out before use. That's my routine that has served me well here. Lastly, I have used the hull on off cleaner in the pic above and it does a good job of getting stain out. As mention, it's not good for the galvanized trailer so yes be careful about keeping it off of it. I learned that one the hard way, lol. Years ago I used Snow-bowl toilet bowl cleaner but can't find it anymore probably because it was not EPA friendly? I think it's the muratic acid that cleans the stain? Good luck.
 
Thanks Shawnee..
Here is a set up for my boat.. Yes there is a stereo that draws for the clock if the battery switch is left on. In a nut shell the one year old battery started to show signs of weakness half way through the season and the newly installed battery is now showing signs of failing to hold a charge as well... Ran boat last Sunday (6 days ago) battery switch to off as soon as I got home.. Just checked and its at 11.9 volts.....[I have to agree w/ Megabyte about replacing batteries as a "matched set. It's the old "weak link" idea. Once a battery starts to go south it draws the good battery. Then, when the charger or alternator tries to recharge, it cooks the new battery in its effort to recharge the old, defective battery, effectively killing you new battery. Working on adding pix's
 
I always thought that the charge only went to the battery that the selector switch was set on? As in, each battery was isolated via the switch? I need to figure all this out for general knowledge and as part of my project on moving a battery and installing an inverter.
 
Some guys use Tap Talk. If you have an iPhone as I do, I take a pic with the iPhone and then select the pics I want to post and email them to myself. When you do this from the iPhone it should ask you what size file you want the pics sent and if you select "medium" it should allow you to post them after re saving those pics to whatever devise you use posting to this site.
 
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