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Wart, As you have been explaining the cluster switch set up for us I would like to pick your brain on the fuses. As I mentioned, I'm going to be installing a battery charger soon and then eventually an inverter. All of these require inline fuses. The Battery DC to inverter fuse looks to me like it must be the fuse block type as I don't see the thermal style that goes to 300amp? My question to you is, can I use the thermal type fuse like you used on the cluster set up on the battery charger DC to battery cables? Or do I need to use a fuse block type and if so can you elaborate on why which type etc...? I'll be installing the Promariner Pronautic 1220P (20Amp) charger and it requires the fuse to be 10 amp higher than output (so 30amp). Thanks
 

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The Battery DC to inverter fuse looks to me like it must be the fuse block type as I don't see the thermal style that goes to 300amp?

Type " 12V surface mount circuit Breaker - 300amp" in Google [By the way......I don't use Google...... I use Dogpile.] It searchers 7 different search engines including Google and is easier to read.....To me anyway.



My question to you is, can I use the thermal type fuse like you used on the cluster set up on the battery charger DC to battery cables? Or do I need to use a fuse block type and if so can you elaborate on why which type etc...? I'll be installing the Promariner Pronautic 1220P (20Amp) charger and it requires the fuse to be 10 amp higher than output (so 30amp). Thanks

I don't understand your question...... Look at page 26 in owners manual to see wiring schematic.

It just has inline fuses to each battery.
 
Sorry for my confusing ramblings Wart. What I was trying to ask you was, can I use the Thermal type fuse on the lines that go from a battery charger to the battery or should I use a fuse block fuse? Other than being able to reset the thermal style, are there reasons to use one style vs the other? Also, as related to the fuse that I will need to instal on the line(cable) from the battery to the inverter, I didn't see on the Blue Sea Systems site that they had a thermal type fuse that went to 300A so I was figuring that I would need to use a fuse block type as they did go to 300amp. I was just looking for some of you insight on fuses etc..? Thanks.
 
Well after doing some research myself today, I think I found my answers. It appears that the fuse block style fuses as in the pic below are what should be used for the lines running from a battery charger to a battery and also for the line running from a battery to an inverter.
 

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A Lot of chargers come with fuses inline to hook to the battery/batteries.

Do they work? yes...... But they look like crap and for sure chang out the Damn Automotive ends on them.


But if the charger is some distance form the batteries and it's a high end charger [as it appears what you have] Then I'd use This fuse panel.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5037/S ... t_Circuits


It's a straight thru design for each leg IN & OUT. It can be mounted right next to the charger.
 
Maybe I'm missing something.
If the reason for a fuse is to protect the wire rather than the device, I'm at a loss why you would want something rated for 300 amps.
 
I've created a similar 2 switch setup in my 2520, but for specific reasons. (I have a starting battery and 2 house batteries, and wanted to isolate the spare house battery) I have the BEP cluster smart switch that has an on/off switch for the house battery, an on/off switch for the starting battery, and a third switch to put them in parallel for emergency. The BEP protects both my starting battery from running down, and the house electronics from spikes via built in relay. The second switch that I installed is a standard guest (1, 2, or both) that is connected to the house batteries. This way I can run on only 1 house battery, with a second completely isolated, and fully charged for long stays on the anchor running livewell, electronics, etc.. I could set to both and use/charge both at the same time, but I also have a dual bank charger installed that maintains both of my deep cycles.

It took me a long time to get my battery consumption under control. Long story short: Buy good batteries!!!
 
Megabyte":13r7li8r said:
Maybe I'm missing something.
If the reason for a fuse is to protect the wire rather than the device, I'm at a loss why you would want something rated for 300 amps.

Kevin, I'm just going by what is in the installation instructions for the xantrex 1800 12V Inverter. That is the one that calls for a 300Amp fuse. See pics. The battery charger calls for a 30A inline fuses on each positive line running from the charger to the battery. Both of these units call for the fuse to be installed close to the battery (6" to 12" or so I think?). I'm going to do the batteries and the battery charger instal first and hope to get to the inverter by June or so. While I'm doing the charger and battery project I did want to go ahead and run the wires etc for the inverter just not connect them to battery of course but at least have them done. There is a remote for the inverter also that I'm going to pre-run just so I can have everything ready when I do the inverter. Not doing it all at once so I can spread out the $'s. Stage 1 is about $1K and stage 2 just for the inverter is another $1K. Need to keep my wife happy if you know what I mean, lol.
 

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school skipper,

Both batteries do NOT get charged together unless you have the three position switch turned to the BOTH position. I rarely use this position but alternate between one battery and the other. Doing things this way always leaves me with a fully charged battery if have a problem with the charging system or with the other battery. :)
 
Hope all enjoyed Christmas!..
To update on my battery situation.. Recharged batteries back to full charge (which they both did) and put them back in boat. I left the auto float disconnected and both battery switches in off position while the boat sat on trailer in driveway for the past few weeks. Checked both batteries with ohm meter yesterday before putting in storage and pulling batteries out and found that both held charge without dropping voltage... Will replace auto float in spring and hope that this may have been problem all along.
As far as switch set up, I do like the Blue Sea set up that Warthog 5 posted and think this is the system I'll install if I end up replacing my current set up.
 

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LOL... Yeah I pulled the lights out of the garage and looked up at the house then turned and looked at the boat...
Ladders and roofs or a little bonus time playing with the boat?? Seeing as though the wife was out shopping, I had no choice but to make the decision by my self! Truth by told, it stayed that way because she actually liked it..
Wishing you all a Safe, Healthy and successful 2017 on the water!
 
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