Engine flush

[rwp48]

Three month and we will back on Maine. Last summer kept our Parker on mooring, but this summer we will be keeping it in a marina slip. Im looking forward to being able to do chores like wash the boat. But perhaps the most important thing...being able to flush the engine (250hp Yammi) with fresh water. Since I was unable to do that last year and since I doubt the PO ever did (he didn't do anything else so why flush the engine) I'm wondering if there is anything I should do before we launch to make up for sins of the past. Is there a special flushing solution I should consider? Salt Away? Vinegar? If so, what method do I use?

Or am I worrying about nothing? Run the boat and flush it out while it's still warm?

 

[The pew]

Pull your thermostat and take a look at them or just go ahead and replace them.

Run salt away through the system now and going forward.


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[warthog5]

Along with the above.... I'd be replacing the anodes. I suspect they haven't been touched?

There also may be anodes that are inside the motor.

 

[slammer2]

Depending on year of motors,the earlier yamahas the anodes where right between the spark plugs and defenatly inspect and change them they are as easy as the plug to Change there should be 2 per cylinder 4 total on those motors,as for the newer dive by wire motors such as my 2012 motors there r some under the valve covers and also some in the heads located between the valve covers not to bad to do but a lot more involved than the older motors if you have the yamaha Manuel,but as warthog5 and the pew said check all and flush.

 

[Brent]

Post a pic of the removed thermostats

 

[Brent]

Does OB fully retract out of the water?

 

[rwp48]

I should have been a bit more clear.
My motor is a 2012 250hp Yamaha 4-stroke w/ 250 hrs.
Bracket mounted.
It is tilted clear of the water when not running.

 

[slammer2]

Same motor and year as mine,year I believe eight-twelve anodes in the heads if u remove the computed and bracket between the heads there r a couple u can access there just to check and see how they look,I monotor mine seasonaly every year all you need is a 10-12 millimeter socket to check but if your not certain again the yamaha Manuel is a bible to the motor with the proper torques otherwise the dealer will and can do it$$$But defiantly check them the ones under the valve covers are a lot more involved,GOOD LUCK

 

[sydngoose]

To answer your initial question about flushing: Yes, I am a firm believer in "salt away". Follow their directions on the bottle to a T. You will be pleased with the results. I use it EVERY time I am done with ANY of our boats for the day...takes 30 seconds/ motor to flush. Then, use the extra in the dispenser to rinse the hull sides and trim / tilt motor/ hydraulic steering ram, etc...

Great product. Not cheap, but neither is corrosion issues.

PS: I am from Camden, Maine...just down the way from you: now I live in Jacksonville, Florida.
I still have most of my family in Damariscotta, Warren and Hope, Maine.

 

[shawnee83]

As I trailer mine to storage near the ramp, I'm able to flush the engine after every use. I've read many on here talk about using the Salt-Away and I have thought about it many times but never tried it as of yet. Maybe this season? When back to the storage yard, which is only 5 minutes after hauling out, the first thing I do is connect the flush out to the motor. My yard has 2 hoses at the wash station just for this and I let the engine flush while washing the boat. As far as the rest of the cooling system goes, I agree with the others here on replacing all of the related components if you don't have records of it being done and especially the thermostats. I replace my water pump every other season. That's all I do.