Floatation foam or Not?

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MDP

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Hi all,

Reworking a 1989 Parker CCDV and wanted to get imput on wether to put new floatation foam under the new deck. I have heard that even the new foam will eventually get waterlogged. Also wondering if anyone has tried this and the noise level if no foam is put back. Planning on using 3/4in Penske board for the new deck and heard that this gives some soundproofing. Thoughts please?
 
I don't trust the pourfoam either. I would pack the area tight with styrofoam block / sheets. I took styrofoam out of seat tanks on a 35 yr old sailboat I owned. It looked like the day it was put in there.
 
Thanks for the reply. Where is the best place to purchase the foam? Also, any issues with degredation due to resin or any other chemicals getting on the foam. I have heard that the styrofoam with disolve when exposed to various chemicals.
 
I've purchased styrofoam from a local freezer company that services the fishing ind. in New Bedford. Google it, maybe mcmaster carr.
You do need to keep wet fiberglass resin off the styrofoam. Styrene, acetone etc will dissolve it. to glass your deck back down just tack a pc clear plastic over top of the foam before you lay-up.
 
Thanks for the help. Trying to get all of the info I can before getting boat back together and wishing I had done something different. I have spent a number of hours getting the boat apart and digging out foam. Want to avoid mistakes.
 
Run away from the styrofoam. If you want to make blocks, make you a small mold and use the poured foam and even encapsulate it at the extreme and place it in place, of course planning for the expansion. If you use sheet Styrofoam, unless you crumble it, you still end up with voids and dead spaces in which to enjoy the greenhouse affect in any sealed area.
 
MDP":3cz8jz0k said:
Reworking a 1989 Parker CCDV and wanted to get imput on wether to put new floatation foam under the new deck. I have heard that even the new foam will eventually get waterlogged.
Personally I think that happened with foam from boats made in the early days (70s or so), but doesn't happen with the newer 2-part foam. See this info below from US Composites, as that is what I would use, http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html. I'd have no reservations against using it.

Link = http://www.uscomposites.com/faq_foam.html#14
14. Is this foam water resistant?

Yes, but with the following caveat. The foams that we sell are considered closed-cell, which means that each cell that makes up the foam structure is completely closed off from surrounding cells which prevents it from acting like a sponge. It is completely safe for this foam to be in contact with water for hours/days/weeks and even months with no adverse effects. However, it should never be submerged in contact with water permanently. Over a period of years the water contact can begin to soften the foam and cause it to lose its closed-cell status. This foam is designed primarily to be used as an insurance policy in case of damage/holes that could cause a vessel to lose buoyancy. Pinhole sized openings would essentially have no effect on the foam since the amount of exposure is so minimal but you should always make repairs as soon as possible to keep the foam effectiveness as good as possible. This will be the case with all after market closed-cell polyurethane foams and even manufacturer installed foams.
 
Thanks for all of the info. When the weather gets back to where I can work on the boat I will try to post some pics of the project. I have some good pics of the stringer system and will take more as the project progresses.
 
For what it is worth... if I was doing this job on my boat, I would first coat the tank with coal tar epoxy, and then use a modern 2-part foam pour.
 
MDP":1yc972ik said:
Thanks for all of the info. When the weather gets back to where I can work on the boat I will try to post some pics of the project. I have some good pics of the stringer system and will take more as the project progresses.
Hey the weather is great today, nice and cool, which also helps to reduce the itching from any grinding. :roll: :lol: But anyway along the lines of coal tar epoxy, its pretty hard to get around the area. So as a substitute for the tank coatings, go over to Barbours in Beaufort and pick up some Interprotect 2000E in the gallon kit. They also have much of what you need to do all of your updates, and has created a mini retail store with semi wholesale prices and a friendly bunch if you are not aware of them. If they do not carry anything that you may need, normally they can order it in for delivery in day or so.
 
In an old thread Dale questioned the use of rino liner to encapsulate a fuel tank suspecting it had carbon in it, (corrossive with aluminum)
I did a little research on coal tar. If what Dale stated is true, coal tar is about the worst thing you could coat a tank with. It is predominantly carbon! Coat your tank with the interlux epoxy to be on the safe side.
 
Oyster, I am familiar with Barbour Marine. I have already been there and priced out much of the materials needed. They carry the Airex PXC board and I am thinking of using it for the new deck. Anyone here use this material and how do you like it for deck replacement? I haven't used the PXC board and was wondering the steps for installing it. Any advise appreciated.
 
warthog5":3md81r3r said:
But anyway along the lines of coal tar epoxy, its pretty hard to get around the area.

Got a Grainger store near you?
Oh its accessible, but not without several additional steps from getting Interprotect from Barbours . I also use it for several other applications and keep it hanging around. The stuff has proven to be some pretty rugged stuff over the years since I began using it in the 80s.

As a side note Barbours is family run and has been around since Noah built the ark, and still giving personal service like few other outlets these days.
 
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