Front eye hook for trailing.

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Marty D

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If you trailer your parker boat you use the front eye to pull your boat out of the water. If you look in the anchor compartment you will see how the front eye is mounted. There is only a plate that’s 5 inches X 2 inches. How can that be strong enough? I float my boat on the roller trailer because pulling up a 8,000 lb boat I’m afraid that the eye will rip out hitting me in the head.
 
How much effort it takes steepness on the ramp.....It's steepness and how deep you have the trailer.

I don't have a Roller trailer.....We Power Load and assist the winch.

Change the plate if your really worried about it.
 
Someone please correct me if I’m incorrect but I was under the impression there was reinforcement glassed into the bow in that area to spread out the load. I recently removed and bedded that eye and can confirm that it’s quite thick in that area. In the areas that I use my boat, power loading is prohibited and I’ve become accustomed to “cranking” on the trailer and never had any issues in 20 years of using this technique.


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mheltunen":2uo31byn said:
Someone please correct me if I’m incorrect but I was under the impression there was reinforcement glassed into the bow in that area to spread out the load. I recently removed and bedded that eye and can confirm that it’s quite thick in that area. In the areas that I use my boat, power loading is prohibited and I’ve become accustomed to “cranking” on the trailer and never had any issues in 20 years of using this technique.


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Power loading is prohibited? That’s interesting. What’s up with that? Obviously there is a good reason, just curious. I’ve always drove on bunks except my first boat which I started out with on a lake. I can be loaded and out in probably a minute if I have someone driving the trailer in for me and they jump out and hook the strap and crank the winch tight. By myself I can still do it in a few minutes. When I had a roller trailer on my first boat years ago, keeping up with the pins and rollers with salt water corrosion was a PIA.
 
One other trick for peace of mind is to hang a towel or jacket ect.... over the winch line. It’s an old off-road trick. If the cable ( or strap)snaps or pulls thru it will drop vs flying towards the winch. Granted when you get close that’s not an option.


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shawnee83":1tn4d481 said:
mheltunen":1tn4d481 said:
Someone please correct me if I’m incorrect but I was under the impression there was reinforcement glassed into the bow in that area to spread out the load. I recently removed and bedded that eye and can confirm that it’s quite thick in that area. In the areas that I use my boat, power loading is prohibited and I’ve become accustomed to “cranking” on the trailer and never had any issues in 20 years of using this technique.


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Power loading is prohibited? That’s interesting. What’s up with that? Obviously there is a good reason, just curious. I’ve always drove on bunks except my first boat which I started out with on a lake. I can be loaded and out in probably a minute if I have someone driving the trailer in for me and they jump out and hook the strap and crank the winch tight. By myself I can still do it in a few minutes. When I had a roller trailer on my first boat years ago, keeping up with the pins and rollers with salt water corrosion was a PIA.

Due to power loading eroding the launches they all have “no power loading” signs now. Most of our launches have cement pads that extend down into the water and just rest on the lake bottom. They have had some issues with the prop wash undercutting the material under the cement and having it lose its support and breaking. That is my understanding why they do not allow it anymore. I confess on a couple launches I use if not busy I may help it on to the trailer a bit [emoji15]


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The launch at ponguogue is bad. Your car is on a 30 degree angle. There is no way your pulling a 8000 lb boat with a hand winch or even a power winch knowing if that eye will hold. So I put the hole trailer in the water and float the boat on trailer. All I can do is pack those wheel bearings with grease.
 
Most of our launches I need to back the trailer in deep as well. Often it’s a coordinated effort between the driver and the guy on the crank. If I start with the trailer too deep it’s difficult to center the boat on the trailer and too shallow the strap is under heavy load. It’s always a balancing act. The bearing and seals get changed every other year.


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mheltunen":1wu23o0q said:
Most of our launches I need to back the trailer in deep as well. Often it’s a coordinated effort between the driver and the guy on the crank. If I start with the trailer too deep it’s difficult to center the boat on the trailer and too shallow the strap is under heavy load. It’s always a balancing act. The bearing and seals get changed every other year.


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Bearings buddy help. Keeps the water out with pressure. To keep boat center on trailer use the side tubes that mount on trailer.
 
Bearing buddy’s do help but I still like to repack them every other year. This is the first trailer Ive had with upright guide posts and I can already see how they will be helpful.


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I put guide post on my last boat trailer and was fairly happy with them. It’s was an 18’ Henry O CC. When I bought the Parker one of my first thoughts was to add them eventually to that trailer. Then I realized one flaw I had with them which was that when driving on and brushing/bumping them with the bow it would bounce you to much off course sometimes. When approaching the trailer, at times I may enter the rear of the trailer crabbing some to compensate for the wind etc... but know she/I will target the front keel between the front bunks which is all I need to do. As soon as I get the front on I just power up and she will straighten up the stern as she slide up the bunks. Anyway, after loading the Parker for awhile, I decided not to add them for this reason, so far so good 4 years in. If you are winching with rollers I think guides would be even more beneficial?
Oh, I’ve had buddy bearing before and not. I did have one pop off after redoing bearings. I was told that they are prone to that if you remove them and put them back on again? I don’t know if I buy that but I have a little mixed feelings on them. If you do an annual on the barrings and they have a good solid cap maybe it’s better? Tomato tomato?
 
PKS1801":3odagkpe said:
Power loading is why most short ramps have drop offs at the end. If you use more that one ramp, and start looking, I'll bet that you will see signs that say no power loading.

I put in at the Town Creek ramp off of the new 70 bridge and hwy 101. I’ve put in quite a few times over the years at the Taylor’s Creek ramp also. Maybe because both of these ramps are newer or ...? but even putting in at dead low, I’ve never hit the drop off. It makes sense though about how that happens but I’ve never thought about it prior to this thread. If there is a sign, I’ve never noticed it. I can tell you that probably 70% of everybody using them powers on to their bunk trailers. I’m going to look for any signs about it next time I put in though.
 
shawnee83":mhhwfiak said:
I put guide post on my last boat trailer and was fairly happy with them. It’s was an 18’ Henry O CC. When I bought the Parker one of my first thoughts was to add them eventually to that trailer. Then I realized one flaw I had with them which was that when driving on and brushing/bumping them with the bow it would bounce you to much off course sometimes. When approaching the trailer, at times I may enter the rear of the trailer crabbing some to compensate for the wind etc... but know she/I will target the front keel between the front bunks which is all I need to do. As soon as I get the front on I just power up and she will straighten up the stern as she slide up the bunks. Anyway, after loading the Parker for awhile, I decided not to add them for this reason, so far so good 4 years in. If you are winching with rollers I think guides would be even more beneficial?
Oh, I’ve had buddy bearing before and not. I did have one pop off after redoing bearings. I was told that they are prone to that if you remove them and put them back on again? I don’t know if I buy that but I have a little mixed feelings on them. If you do an annual on the barrings and they have a good solid cap maybe it’s better? Tomato tomato?
What popped off, the dust cover or the bearing buddy? You need not to pump to much grease into them. Two things will happen 1. You will pop the rear grease seal or pop the bearing buddy out. Less is better.
 
PKS1801":21txh4yu said:
I've seen guys drill a small hole in the lip of the hub, and put a set screw in to keep them from popping off.
I never had any pop off. I been using them since 2005. I trailered the boat from Long Island to Maryland 2 times and back. I did buy the original bearing buddy’s. No knock offs.
 
The buddy bearing itself popped off. I’m sure it’s because I put to much grease in it and the pressure did it. That’s when someone told me that it could have been from reusing them when I put it back on a new hub?
 
shawnee83":1vu5vn33 said:
The buddy bearing itself popped off. I’m sure it’s because I put to much grease in it and the pressure did it. That’s when someone told me that it could have been from reusing them when I put it back on a new hub?
I had to replaced the the grease seal because I put to much in. Be real careful. Like I said less is better. Once you see it push out water. Stop!! It’s been 5 years since I pulled and repacked the bearings. Let me get back to waxing the boat. I been working on the boat for 5 days now. I’m getting to old for this. Lol.
 
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