Gel coat cracks around drain plug

[big_tuna]

This weekend I was working on touching up some bottom paint and I noticed gel coat cracks around the drain plug. I'm having an expert come take a look and repair it next weekend but I was wondering if y'all had seen anything similar? It's a 2005 2310. I know there is no wood in the area so I am not stressing out. I'm guessing at one point the drain plug was over tightened?

 

[A-K]

Looks like 1 of the screws is different then the other 2. Maybe that’s a indication?

I bet a good or decent glass guy could fix it in an afternoon.

 

[Antidote]

The cracks appear to continue under the bottom paint (especially to the port side). If you want to save the fiberglass guy some time which equals saving yourself some money, I suggest you sand the bottom paint off to expose the entire area you want him to look at.

 

[Bodick93]

I would bet that that drain plug seized, and the fixture was twisted out. I would start by removing what is there like Antidote suggested, including the drain fixture. Then you know what's going on for yourself.

 

[big_tuna]

Looks like drain plug has been rotated a few times!!! What a mess. Really annoying. I just bought the boat 2 years ago and I'm just noticing this now. Clearly someone effed it up. The cracks come from the holes that are sealed up. Wish My surveyor would have noticed this. Anyway my fiberglass guy is going to grind it all down and cover with some new layers of glass

 

[Antidote]

At least they look superficial.

 

[Bodick93]

Wow. 9 Holes. Sucks, but now you know.

 

[big_tuna]

Did some work on the drain plug. I grinded out the cracks on the outside, they are okay, fiberglass is in very good shape. The inside is where we have more work to do. Annoying

 

[A-K]

Way to get after it!

Man you chased the cracks a long way.

How are you fixing the inside?

 

[Efx]

Never seen anyone go that far for some gelcoat cracks. The inside looks like it chipped out. I would definitely build that up with multiple layers and then epoxy paint to gel coat it. Heavily.

 

[Fischer Flyer]

Did some work on the drain plug. I grinded out the cracks on the outside, they are okay, fiberglass is in very good shape. The inside is where we have more work to do. Annoying

Looking better! I have used Thixo epoxy for filling and bonding the gelcoat stress crack areas you ground out; it is a flexible epoxy made by TotalBoat/Jamestown. Thanks!

 

[big_tuna]

Thanks, yeah for the inside I am not sure I will need to grind out the cracks and pealing gel coat, but there is so little room, I can barely get one arm in there....I have the snake attachment on my dremel

 

[big_tuna]

 

[Bodick93]

Man, I know it is not standard, but when you reinstall the drain, what if you use an exact fit SS, aluminum or fiberglass backing plate and through bolt/5200 the new plug in there to avoid the splitting force of the new screws? Maybe make it bottomless (inverted U shape) so as not to inhibit draining or trapping water.

 

[big_tuna]

Man, I know it is not standard, but when you reinstall the drain, what if you use an exact fit SS, aluminum or fiberglass backing plate and through bolt/5200 the new plug in there to avoid the splitting force of the new screws? Maybe make it bottomless (inverted U shape) so as not to inhibit draining or trapping water.

Yeah so I thought about that and perko has a plug with a backing plate, but then the problem is the bottom, it would have to be a U like you mention.

 

[big_tuna]

easy peasy. done and done. can't see it obviously but we used a bronze drain plug housing with bronze screws both from a marine shop. I expect very little corrosion. I have no clue why people insist on using stainless screws to mount their garboard drain!!!!

Did need tape thread on the plug!!! Was a very small drop every 15minutes otherwise and I am a bit of a perfectionist ;-)

 

[big_tuna]

Man, I know it is not standard, but when you reinstall the drain, what if you use an exact fit SS, aluminum or fiberglass backing plate and through bolt/5200 the new plug in there to avoid the splitting force of the new screws? Maybe make it bottomless (inverted U shape) so as not to inhibit draining or trapping water.

I overdrilled the holes, filled with epoxy, then attached screws...

 

[A-K]

Nice work!