Lenco how to?

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johnsw

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Mar 30, 2006
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Location
Seaside Heights NJ
'04 2120SC

After 9 seasons, I finally have my first Lenco actuator failure. I have a replacement on order, so now looking for experiences of what worked well, and what mabe didn't, on snaking the cable of the new actuator into the boat.

After removing the screws holding the upper bracket to the transom, it's still on there solid. Not sure what they used, but it's bedded in something. Not to mention no room to access (pull) the cable from inside the boat except from in the battery compartment where it splits off of the harness for 4" and goes down to the bildge area under the deck. So there's not much there to grab on to, and seems like no real good leverage.

I know I'll need to attach a line to pull the new cable through with, but my dilema is how to bust the original cable free so that it can be pulled - either in to or out of the transom.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks
 
Thanks. Read through the post. Figured since inside is so tight, the cable would have to be pushed through from the outside. I tried pulling from the outside and it was pretty well fixed in place and didn't seem to want to give.

But even so, it's going to be tight getting that cable pushed through the bracket mount with a screwdriver or rod of some kind. That's why I tried to remove the mount, but gave up before I mangled something and made more work for myself. I want to splash this weekend if I can, so the fewer things I need to fix (and fewer parts I'll need to be waiting on) right now the better off I like it. But, I'll give it a go.

What's the deal with the Lift Off?
 
Once I removed the triangular bracket from the transom, I sprayed the Motsenbocker's Lift Off and gave it a minute or two to settle in...I used a tiny screwdriver and to carefully help the wire and Motsenbocker's Lift Off work itself through. Honestly speaking, it took 5 minutes of some careful maneuvering and the wire allowed me to pull through the excess (10-12 inches). The new actuators came with life locks, I connected and pushed them through with a generous amount of 5200.
 
OK. Parts are in. Old actuator is off cutting the wire at the actuator, so I've got a couple inches of cable coming from the bracket.

Now, how did you manage to get the upper bracket off the transom? I tried to twist and pry mine off but it doesn't want to move. I didn't exactly goe ape on it but figured, I'd better ask first before going medieval on it and possibly wrecking the gel coat or cracking the bracket. Maybe there's a trick to this, and maybe not.

If I need to find an easier way, I figure I've already got a nearby hole in the transom with one of those clam shell covers where the paddlewheel speed sensor wire feeds into the battery compartment and goes to the harness. If the risk of damage trying to run the wire like it is now it too high, I'll just run the actuator cable up through there and try to splice into the correct cable in the battery compartment. The challenge then will be identifying which cable in the harness goes to the stbd. actuator because it's all hidden once it turns down into the bilge. But that might still be easier than wrestling with the bracket if it's that immovable.
 
johnsw":257uxvul said:
Now, how did you manage to get the upper bracket off the transom? I tried to twist and pry mine off but it doesn't want to move. I didn't exactly goe ape on it but figured, I'd better ask first before going medieval on it and possibly wrecking the gel coat or cracking the bracket. Maybe there's a trick to this, and maybe not.

The bracket had 5200 holding it to the transom as well as the three screws. Once I removed the screws, I actually used a old (but amazing) duct knife, I simply tapped it down the side (away from the middle where the cable runs through the transom) and was able to pull it away without harming the gel coat.
 
Yes, screws were out and found what looked to be 5200 on the threads. I'll try tapping a putty knife behind it to see if that cuts the bond. Thanks again.
 
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