lift motor replacment

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sam3

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salisbury ma
I need to replace lift motor on ox225 it looks easy any advise and any one ever use sierra motor its a lot cheaper than yamaha
 
I cannot give any helpful advice other than to say that I had mine replaced last spring.
Mine wasn't the motor, it was a leaking lift cyl assembly.
The work was done by a local Yamaha mechanic.
1997 Yamaha OX66.

$702.00
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=13079&p=91688&hilit=spring+2012+commissioning#p91688
 
You will need a acetylene torch. You will need a way to lift the motor. The motor has to be unbolted from the transom.

Do NOT even think about trying to loosen the bolts without heating the heck out of them with the acetylene torch.

All you will do is snap the bolts off and create a mess that will cause you to spend MORE money.

You will not be able to drill the bolts out if you snap one off..You can't get the angle right unless the whole Tilt & Trim unit is removed from the motor....More PITA.

By the way...It's called a Tilt &Trim motor.
 
Sierras are good units. Have used torches or heat hammers to aid removal, but always were able to do them w/ the OB up on the mooring locks, plus a few safety blocks for good measure.

First thing I do when I buy a new-to-me motor is to remove service bolts I may need to get to, 1 at a time, then clean/grease and re-torque w/ triple guard grease.
 
but always were able to do them w/ the OB up on the mooring locks,


Hmmmmmm? The T&T motor stays stationary when the motor tilts. There is a 10mm headed bolt on the backside of the T&T motor [1 of 3 bolts]
That the ONLY access is dismount the motor from the bracket or hull.

This is what the one I had originally looked like.

100_3942_zps459b3c89.jpg



This was the replacement.

The bolt I'm talking about is back behind where that wiring comes in, but at the base. A 1/4in drive will not get in there. AND as I said....You want to heat the bolts to break down the corrosion on the threads.



100_4028.jpg


100_4029.jpg
 
that's what mine looks like it still works fine but I don't trust that rusted casing
 
When they crack like that it allows water into the hyd. unit.....Not Good. I just kept filling and flushing it.


Oh....And the #1 Biggest pain was the Bypass screw was Frozen. I literately forced the motor to tilt using the Come-along and A-Frame.
 
it still works good so I think I should do it before it fails and costs even more
 
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