More Winter Projects Completed - 2006 2320 DV

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heylouie00

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I've been lurking here for a while and since I used some of the ideas here for inspiration I thought I would post some pics of the projects that you guys helped me with.

Sorry for the long post, but here goes...

I bought a 4x8 sheet of Seafoam starboard from TAP plastics, which was little over $300 plus tax. So, the starboard, plus misc fasteners, the piano hinge, etc. and all of the projects below were probably a bit over $400 total.

First order of business was to try to clean up the mess that was behind the bench seat. I've seen various rod mounts, but I had two criteria: must hold at least 6 rods and should not alter the boat in any way (in case I wanted to remove it or a future owner hated it or whatever)

I disassembled the seat and removed the back from the bench. Other than matching the angle(s) of the hull, this has probably been the most challenging part. I did not want to drill anything to mount the seat back and right now it is attached with industrial strength velcro, which is less than ideal. So, please suggest alternatives to mount the seat back to the pilot house or convince me its OK to drill into the pilot house to mount it.

Anyway, the rod locker is essentially two side plates that go between the seat base and the hull. There are stringers, so to speak to make a box structure top and bottom on both the seat and hull sides. The box structure then mounts to the seat base with qty 3 - 1/4-20 fasteners at each end. It would be easy to drill down into the floor as well as attach the stringers to the seat base, but I did not and it does not seem necessary. We'll see.

Next, I added a lid, because - out of sight=out of mind. The lid has rails on the underside that locate it within the box. The lid is held down by simple bungee loops over cleats that are fastened to the side plates.

The next project was a tackle locker to make use of the dead space above the stock box below the captains chair. Again, simple box structure that slid over the box, screwed down onto the box and can hold 10 large plano boxes and 5 (or 6) of the smaller plano boxes (on the left). It is a little unfinished, as the door is just a piece of starboard that hinges with a piano hinge and has slam latches, but no pull handle. It looks clean, but you have to grab the upper edge to open it, seems OK for now.

The box comes out almost flush with the throttle controls so, I'm effectively using previously wasted space and it is not even noticeable from the captains chair, i.e it doesn't stick out enough to rub against your leg or anything. Although, If I had it to do over again, I would change the dimensions slightly, because the captains seat has to be rotated for the door to open fully (the seat is removed for the pictures below)

The front of the stock storage box was modified to open up the access since the top is now blocked. The scraps from the cut-outs were cleaned up and used as fire extinguisher mounts. The plates were attached to the pilothouse by using longer fasteners for the external pilothouse grab bars.

I'm pretty happy with the results for now, but I'm looking forward to getting your feedback, so fire away. I'm also planning on putting them to the test as our salmon season just opened for the first time in several years. We'll see what works and what doesn't.

More to come...
 

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Here is the other project that I did previously.

I wanted to mount the EPIRB to the pilothouse door, but wasn't happy about drilling random holes, in case I change my mind or whatever.

So, I took a plate of 1/2" white starboard (before I knew f the seafoam color), and cut it to fit roughly the size of the inside of the door.

I laid things out and then mounted them on the plate and then mounted the plate on the door. I'm not sure what they are called, but the nuts are hollow and push into a through hole and have spikes that dig into the starboard.

At the top of the plate, I used a handle from west marine which had studs welded into it. So, the fastener used on the outside of the door is like a pan head screw that is hollow and threaded on the inside. I had to cut a little bit of the stud of to get things to tighten down. I added a little silicone sealant in the holes before final tightening.

We used this (thankfully not the EPIRB) all year and it was a great place to stash the things used during a trip like gloves, crab gauge, misc. weights, etc.
 

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Looks like a great job. I love what happens to Parker owners when they have a little free time on their hands. Is the seat backrest still comfortable?
 
It is ok, It is ok, It is ok, It is ok to drill into the the walls, and ceiling of your pilot house. Just remember 5200 is your best friend!!!!! Don't be skeered. We all have done it. Good work so far.
 
heylouie...

y is the satfind 406 you have mounted on inside of door?

If your boat ever goes down with the cabin door closed how will it escape cabin and transpond if its stuck in the cabin?

Is the signal that strong that it will transmit under the sea???

I have the same one and its mounted on cabin roof top....???

How often do you test it?
Battery Change???
 
Is the seat backrest still comfortable?
I guess. I don't spend much time there, LOL, but it is in a similar to the stock back rests. If anything, it could use a slight angle backwards (top to bottom), which the cabin obviously does not have.

I had the boat out on SF Bay yesterday for a shakedown run after having the motors serviced and everything worked great. Except, I will definitely do something different with the seat back. The velcro attachment to the carpet is cheesy and does not seem like it will work long term.
It is ok to drill into the the walls, and ceiling of your pilot house
Thanks for the encouragement to drill holes, that would open up a ton of possibilities for mounting the seat back. How have others done it?
y is the satfind 406 you have mounted on inside of door?
If your boat ever goes down with the cabin door closed how will it escape cabin and transpond if its stuck in the cabin?
There are a few reasons the EPIRB is mounted on the inside of the door. The biggest reason for me is that I never run offshore with the door closed. I'm paranoid of being trapped inside, I suppose.
Also, since I usually fish with several other guys and with the cabin so small, if we are running, the door is open, and if we are fishing the door is open to look at or use FF/GPS/VHF, so it just works out that it is essentially on the outside while we are under way anyway.
Is the signal that strong that it will transmit under the sea???
Well, with the door open, it should be the same as an external mount, and with the hydrostatic release, should it get submerged, it should release and then float to the surface.

As for how often I change the batteries, it is only a few months old, so I have not had to cross that bridge yet. I think it is spec'd for 3 years, though I should commit that number to memory.
 
the batteries on them are date stamped... and have a replace date (similar to an AED unit), as well as the hydrostatic release has a replace date.

Personally I think this placement is great - since epirbs can easily be stolen and arent cheap. Most people who carry epirbs in smaller boats don't even have the hydrostatic release - they just carry it in a ditch bag, so I think he's well ahead of the game.

Nice rod rack idea - i like it a lot..
 
The id numbers on all epirbs are unique, and if stolen cannot be reactivated IF !!!!!!! you report it to NOAA ....!!!!


The form requires you to list model, and UNIQUE ID as well as serial number so im not sure id worry about theft.

To each his own as far as placement I see that a lot of guys leave door open so it does make sense, but i fish all winter too cold to leave it open and the AC on on an offshore requires the door to be closed.

Does anyone know the average life of the release systems....??
 
Looks great. We're getting ready to install a bench that we found on Greatlakes skipper. Its an original from Parker with two big stainless steel posts for legs. Wondering if we should have it follow the shape of the hull (therefore angled slightly) or if we should do it linear and leave it a bit uneven behind the bench. Does my question make sense
Thanks guys
 
Well, with the door open, it should be the same as an external mount, and with the hydrostatic release, should it get submerged, it should release and then float to the surface.

Just a thought, if the boat goes down, its going to sink stern first with the majority of the weight being the engines, plus an air pocket in the bow.

If the EPIRB releases it will float free and probably end up in the cabin.
Also Parkers are supposed to have foam floatation in the hull that will keep the boat afloat and I believe a hydrostatic release needs 12ft submersion to release so it looks like that EPIRB will have to be deployed manually if needed.

Just my .02.
 
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