Need Help with Water-Pump Replacement

[Bucktail]

Hey Guys,

I decided it was time to do some preventive maintenance on my Yamaha 200 hp Saltwater series motor. Replaced T-Stats, Engine mounted fuel filter, lower unit oil, and removed and greased the prop then reinstalled.

Next, I removed the lower unit, and started the disassembly of the water pump.

I removed the 4 bolts for the plastic water pump housing and removed the plastic assembly. So far so good...

Next, I removed the stainless steel cup that contains the impeller inside it.
So far so good...

Here is where the problem begins.
There is a metal collar that slides down the shaft and is pressed into placed. The metal collar is being stubborn and I can't seem to get it loose.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get this collar off? Has anyone else had the same trouble with theirs?

I tried prying it up, but it doesn't seem to want to move at all.


Thanks,
Bucktail

 

[gw204]

I was always able to get them up by sticking a flat head screw driver in between the bottom edge of the metal sleeve and the lip on the plastic bushing that is under it. Then I would just twist the screw driver a bit. Remove the screw driver, turn the driveshaft 90 degrees, reinsert it and twist again. Keep doing that until it pops up.

Or you could just cut it off with a Dremel and get a new sleeve and plastic bushing.

 

[TomS]

Just to add to the above, try using two screwdrivers 180* from one another and slowly twisting them.

That being said, I've had one come off the easy way and one require the dremel

-- Tom

 

[Bucktail]

Sorry that I have not posted a reply sooner.

GW204, I tried prying up on that thing for about an hour with no luck.
TomS, I also tried the 2 screwderiver tactic as well with no luck.

By that point I was really starting to get frustrated, so I tried taking a small drill bit, and ever so carefully drilled a hole just through the collar, being carfeful not to hit the driveshaft.

After the hole was drilled the collar weaked some, and I eventually was able to get it off.

*** Getting the Woodrift Key off Proved to be Harder***

This was the first time changing the water pump after 4 1/2 years of service, so it was on there to stay.

Frustrated, I put the lower unit in the back of the truck and headed off to Beacon Light Marina, who specialize in Yamaha, and he had off in 10 minutes.

So, eventaully I got everthing back together, and took it out for spin Saturday afternoon and everything worked out fine.

Thanks for taking the time to post some advice, it was appreciated.


Bucktail

 

[TimC2520]

Heat it....
I struggled with mine for an hour, the mechanic walked by with a benzo-matic....hit it for probably 1/10 of one second and the thing popped right off.
You usually have to destroy it anyway to get it off and I do not understand why Yammie doesn't include that in their water pump replacement "kit". But please, don't leave the heat on it for more than 1/2 second, that's all it takes and the local Yam mechanics in my area all told me that's how they get it off.

 

[Bucktail]

Heat it....
I struggled with mine for an hour, the mechanic walked by with a benzo-matic....hit it for probably 1/10 of one second and the thing popped right off.
You usually have to destroy it anyway to get it off and I do not understand why Yammie doesn't include that in their water pump replacement "kit". But please, don't leave the heat on it for more than 1/2 second, that's all it takes and the local Yam mechanics in my area all told me that's how they get it off.

Maybe next time I will just do what you suggested. As you said, I ended up replacing the collar and retaining ring with new parts anyway.

Thanks for the tip Tim.

Bucktail

 

[TimC2520]

Glad I could help Bucktail.

This past spring was the first time I tried mine by myself also but I was
fortunate to watch a friend do his first and learned that way. Another tip a Yam mechanic shared with me.....It sometimes is a pain in the butt, especially if you are by yourself, to get the metal cup that slides over the rubber impeller down into place while getting those stiff "fins" pointed in the proper direction. He told me to spray the inside of that metal housing with CRC or WD-40 so I did.....I then turned the shaft with one hand and the impeller and housing both slid together like I had been doing it for 30 years that way. It was a breeze.

Tim

 

[skipperhub]

Bucktail

My 115 yama's have two flat and one warped spacer in place of the metal ring you had so much trouble getting off. On top of them is a slotted plastic sleve with a metal cap holding it down and tight against the shaft. The purpose of those pieces seems to be to stop the impeller from even a fraction of movement up the shaft.
It was necessary for me to pry the metal cap up with two screwdrivers. These parts, which stand a good chance of being damaged in removal, were not in the kit and were purchased separately. They are a couple of stamped out items that probably have a value of around 25 cents apiece. I paid over $7 for each piece. So goes the world of boating.

My Seloc repair manuel made no mention of the best way to remove the woodruff key. I assumed it would fall out with the impeller removed or that I could work it out with a pair of vice grips. No such luck.

My woodruff key is a half moon shape with the rounded part inserted into the slot in the driveshaft. Some motors have a barrel shaped key that plugs into the shaft. As per a mechanic's instructions, I took a chisel, not a screwdriver, as he cautioned, laid the point on top of the woodruff with the flat side of the chisel against the shaft. One sharp blow with the hammer and the key popped out. My water pump kit did come with a replacement.

This was the first time I serviced my motors myself. I invested in a torque wrench and a pump for the lower unit lub. I also purchased a repair manuel on line. It is sort of generic but I got the impression that you could not buy a factory edition.

I would not start to service my engines without a repair manuel. With the cost of servicing my engines being what they are in this area, I saved about $600 overall. It will be more of a savings next time because I will have less equipment expense.

Of course I don't allow for the hours I spent reading and re reading the manuel. I also don't account for the many hours I spent staring at the engines hoping they would fall apart by themselves. Nor did I account for my strained back I acquired from working the lower units back into position without any assistance.

Kind of wordy but I was thinking my relating the experience might help someone else save a few bucks and a few skinned knuckles. Or at least raise a quesion.

Skipper Hub