Need Parker 18 information - Just Purchased!

[Silversides]

Hi,
I'm new to the board.
I purchased a 1996 Parker 18 Commercial Notch about a week ago and love the boat.
Can anyone tell me about this boat? I understand its a commercial model with no inboard gas tank.
How is this boat different than the standard 18 during that year?
Any information or experiences would be a great help.

Silversides
Strasburg, PA

 

[Silversides]

Wow, I cant believe there is not one person who can provide any information.

 

[Megabyte]

Well... I would bet that that while there are a number of 18 owners out there, not a lot of them own one one of the commercial hulls.
Perhaps you could take some detailed photos of your boat, and 18 owners could tell tell you how theirs differ.

Photos here are always welcome.

 

[Silversides]

Thanks for the response. Here are some additional pictures.
Can some of the 18 owners comment on the differences of your boat to mine?
Much appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

 

[Megabyte]

Will you be re-using that same console when you relocate it to the center?

If so, I think I would put a deck hatch under the console so you have access to the rigging, and then use some 3 or 4" PVC as a pass-through the deck.
Make the PVC rise about 8 to 12" above the deck and seal the area around it so water doesn't enter.
Maybe put a couple of 45 degree elbows below the deck to ease the cable transition so as not to kink them?
The battery could be re-located under the console as well.

That 18 is so simple I'm sure it can be done.

 

[Silversides]

Kevin,
I may use the same console. To do what you have suggested would mean taking the floor up and installing the rigging tube.
Correct me if I am mistaken but it would mean re-doing the deck as well. Am I correct?

Thanks,
Nick

 

[Megabyte]

To do what you have suggested would mean taking the floor up and installing the rigging tube.
Correct me if I am mistaken but it would mean re-doing the deck as well. Am I correct?

Not really.

If the area between the stringers is open and not foamed, you could put a partial rigging tube under the console, and another in the transom, then use the interstitial space to run your rigging.
You would need to pull several pull cords through the area to get cables and wiring through tho.

If you cut the floor, then yes... I would do a full rigging tube. and make it as big (4") as you can.

 

[Silversides]

Kevin,
Where near the transom would I run the cables? Currently the battery is in the rear starboard box and the outboard and steering run into this box and out the same box along the gunnel. (See pic)

I have the stringer design from parker (attached) and I can see your point of not tearing up the deck. I have one stringer to cut a hole in and I should be clear to the console where I would need a tube entry.

I also have another issue that I may want to address; this hull has no inboard gas tank to I am currently using 2 portable 6 gallon tanks. If I decide to run a 4" diameter cable tube, I may as well install a 40 gallon inboard gas tank since the entire deck would need refinishing. If I decide to do this, I am not sure that I want to handle the job myself.

When I purchased this boat, I didn't think that I would want to make all of these changes as mentioned.

I originally just wanted to repower this boat with a 90 Yamaha-4 Stroke. It currently has a 50 Johnson 4-Stroke and is underpowered. But I can see that there is more to do before the re-power. Moving the console is the first order of business due to the uneven ride with two anglers.
Your thoughts?

Thanks,
Nick

 

[Gobbler66]

I own a 2120 and my dad owns a 18 CC so here it goes. The differences that I can see are that your boat was designed and built for the commercial fishing/crabbing/etc guys. They moved a small bare bones console to the side to open up the floor for fish/nets/pots/etc. The motor is small in power and easily maintained. No internal gas tank as commercial guys do not want anything pretty or full of bells and whistles. They want to fish without spending a lot on fuel and they want all the deck space possible. Your boat was designed and built for a hard working group of commercial watermen who need a solid boat with lots of deck space and a small economical motor.
I think it is very nice just like it sits. I would keep it just like it was intended. It is not seen everyday and if very clean.

 

[Silversides]

Gobbler66,
Thanks for the input and you are spot on. It was intended to be simple and economical. I purchased this boat as a fly fishing type boat. A Chesapeake "Flat Boat" so to speak that can withstand a little snotty weather if needed. I sold my 96 17' Boston Whaler with a 60HP Mariner 2 Stroke and replaced it with this boat. As far as ride there is no comparison. Plenty of freeboard and about twice the weight as the whaler. I want to keep the open deck feeling of this boat with a simple console but with some bells and whistles of a flats boat. The major reason for moving the console is the ride with two anglers. the boat leans to the starboard while underway does not make me comfortable operating the boat. In addition the rear hatch on the starboard side is taking on some water due to the drain that is right next to the scupper that allow water to enter when leaning to that side. I am told that on newer 1801 models, these drains have been removed and redesigned to empty into the bilge area which would solve my problem that way.

Here are my current plans for the vessel:

a) Reposition the console to center and / or replace console with one that has a seat that can open up for storage. As far a size, I want to keep it close to the same as I have. That way I will have plenty of deck space.

b) Hide the steering and electrical cables and free them from lying on the deck.

c) Replace Steering: currently very stiff; and if the console is replaced and moved, it will require a new cable and helm. (Teleflex currently, maybe hydraulic?)

d) Thought about adding inboard fuel tank but after reading all of the problems associated with fuel tanks, I may leave well enough alone and just use portable tanks. I am used to it with owning the Boston Whaler for 18 years!

e) Remove the pedestal helm seat and replace with a Leaning Post with room for a cooler and fuel tank underneath!

f) Change all cleats to pop-up SS cleats. These would be especially helpful at the bow when crawling in and out of the boat at the boat ramp at the end of the day. The pop-ups are a little easier on the knees!

g) Currently I am adding gunnel fly rod holders on both sides of the boat to hold 8 fly rods and one upright on the console.

h) Bilge Pump and Navigation Lights (fore and aft)

I) Re-Power with a used 75 or 90 4 Stroke to give this boat a little more kick. Currently (2003 50 HP Johnson 4 Stroke) with one person, throttle down completely, 26 mph. With two and gear, less. I have seen on classic Parker that folks on a similar boat want a 115 - 150 HP 4 Stroke on this boat. I personally thinks its too heavy for this hull since there is no 40-60 gallon tanks and the absence of a heavy center console which would counterbalance the heavier engine. Thoughts.......? This hull jumps up on plane easily with a 50HP Outboard.

The list is long but that's about it other than small minor gelcoat hole fill in's in the interior and a few small dings on the exterior.

I believe with these changes, the boat will keeps its simplicity and seaworthiness with the Fly Fisherman in mind!

Comments and suggestions appreciated!

Thanks,
Nick

 

[Megabyte]

Nick... I'm probably not the best one to advise you, but I can point you to some projects from our members that will help get you started.

One of the first projects I followed was Warthog5's X-Shark project over on ClassicMako.com before ClassicParker was even born.
The post is still over there, and here is the link: http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/

Next would be Bobby's 2530 project here on CP: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=12419

Here is another 25 refurb by member GoodChance: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9962

A little closer to your 18 project is this 21 refurb by member windknotnc:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10079

Each of those major projects contain tools, tips, and techniques you need to employ in order to make your project a success.
What you are looking to do is much simpler than the projects above, but before you begin cutting, you might want to see what is involved.
As always, the search tool in the Projects section is your friend.

Having said all of that, this is what I would do:

1.) If your plan is to add a below deck fuel tank to your boat, you are going to have to cut the deck at least enough to expose the area where you want to install the tank.
I would center it in the hull if practical.

2.) Since you need to cut the deck for the tank anyway, that would be the perfect time to install a proper rigging tube.
If it were me, I would run it from the box were the cables are now, except I would fabricate a PVC tube from inside that box forward.
Since you will need to take that rigging tube over to the re-located console, you will need to go through a stringer (or two).
This is where you want to look at the other projects closely to see how that is done so as not to comprimise the integrity of the stringer(s).

When you fabricate that tube make it as large in diameter as practical because you are certain to want to run something through there in the future.
I have never see PVC for sale with a radius like you see metal pipe, Though if you can find some, that would be ideal for your transitions.
Otherwise go with 30 or 45 degree elbows to make the transitions as gentle as possible. You want to keep snags to an absolute minimum.
Make sure that the rigging tube comes above the deck floor inside that rear box to keep water out of the hull.
Do the same inside the console.
Finally, before the rigging tube is finished, make sure that you have at least two pieces of parachute cord inside to use as pull cords for when the time comes to start pulling wire.

3.) Since you are doing this much work, now would be the perfect time to re-locate that battery from the rear, and mount it under your console.
That would move weight forward for better balance, and make it easier to wire the console.

4.) Make your camera part of your 'toolbox', and document everything here.
Start a new thread in the Projects section and we might just make it a sticky. :wink:

Good luck!

 

[Megabyte]

Nick... To give you a few ideas, here are some photos of the 17 Dusky that I sold in 2004 after buying my Parker.
This boat did not have a below deck fuel tank.
The tank was in front of the console, above deck, and had a seat cushion on top of the fiberglass enclosure.
You can see the tank in photo #2.
It's an option...

Also note the rod holders on either side of the center console, and the leaning post with a cooler underneath.
I used to use that cooler as dry storage. :wink:

Hope this gives you a few ideas.

 

[Mike S]

I have a Parker 1801 that is set up for light tackle and fly fishing.

Here is a close up of the flyrod racks that replace the standard Parker rings…

It has a low profile bow rail and a salt water trolling motor - extremely help flu when fishing. The iPilot function will "anchor" the boat for hands free fishing. Also, notice the Parker pop up front running light.

The console is about 6" wider than really needed - a narrower console would add useful space.

The factory pilot's seat was replaced with a leaning post that is really a 30 gallon live bait well for chumming. It's 30" wide and saves space. The drains are through the transom in the transom well, which you can see in the bottom center of the transom.

Here's my buddy, Stan, fighting a 25 lb. albacore off Monterey, CA.

Nice fish!

This is a nearly perfect light tackle boat.

 

[Silversides]

Thanks Capt. Kevin and Mike for your reply and suggestions!
I will keep you posted.

Thanks,
Nick