No indicator stream (overheating alarm) ..........thoughts?

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Hannibal

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Throwing this out there for a hopeful easy solution .............

Anyhow, about 3 months ago I had to have my water pump replaced due to a failure on the water. Engine was producing low indicator stream (basically a dribble) and the alarm went off before I noticed it. Limped to the ramp with no worries. Upon replacement of the pump - everything worked perfectly fine.

Since the replacement, I've had the boat out two times (been a busy summer for me) and it performed flawlessly. However, the last time out was easily 6 weeks ago if not more. Since then, the boat has been sitting on the trailer in the driveway.

With the winter approaching, I am determined to go out AT LEAST one more time in order to hunt some big stripers. As such, I took advantage of the nice weather this weekend to check out the boat (charged batteries, organized a bit, greased bearings, etc). Basically, I did what I could so I could simply hook up and go when I got the chance.

Part of that process for me was to hook up the rabbit/flushing ears and let the motor run for a bit. She started just fine and ran smooth on the ears. So I went about my business for a bit. After 3-4 minutes, I noticed no indicator stream but given my last issue - I convinced myself I was being paranoid and decided to pay it little mind. At idle ont the ears, I had convinced myself the motor was seeing little load and that warm-up would take a bit.

Anyhow, after about 8-10 minutes, my overheating alarm went off. I immediately killed the motor and went around back to check things out. Still no water! Everything was hooked up correctly and she should have been getting enough water. However, the indicator port was dry and even had some hot air blowing out. I ran a soft wire through the intake ports in an attempt to clear any debris but I didn't notice anything. I removed the indicator port and tried to use the wire to push through but had no luck (couldn't really get the right angle).

I am a bit lost. I can't fathom that the brand new water pump is damaged/bad. It's been used twice since installed. I also worked perfectly fine the last time I was on the water. The only thing it's done since then is sit in my driveway. It was stored with the motor down to drain, etc. So I can't imagine water sat in there and froze. Heck, while we've had a couple below freezing nights - they've been few and very brief.

My father in law who is a master mechanic suggested hooking up a shop vacuum to the indicator port (water exit) and apply suction while pushing water through the ears (motor off). See if that will move any potential blockage. I can't that hurting but it seems like a long shot.

Really haven't spent too much time trouble shooting this (was on limited time). But I figured I'd post here to hopefully point me in the right direction so I have an educated approach when I get back to it.

Thanks in advance. Sorry for the novel.

Will
 
I have a HPDI 200 and have never been able to run off the muffs without over heating
Just not enough flow for this engine
I had a HPDI 150 and it was fine
Also if you have your boat trailed there is stories of ants and wasps making nest up the pee hole
But most likely just not enough flow due to pressure
Although if she dos it underway I would have it checked for sure
 
It's that V6 Yams in particular, for some reason, tend to overheat or suffer from low cooling water whilst running on the hose. First off, one should NEVER diagnose anything whilst running out-of-water less the motor starts/runs.

Also, make sure to use a DUAL FEED muff water feed gizmo w/ Yam motors. Your town/city water supply is probably really low pressure ...
 
My Yamaha does the same thing when running on the muffs is they aren't seated on the intake just right she will over heat.

However hannibal if I recall you have an Evinrude correct?
 
You don't mention the size of the motor, but I'm with Sully... my guess is not enough flow with the ears.
If you are going to use ears, use one with a dual feed and plenty of water flow (or two hoses).

Big-block Yamahas will overheat if allowed to run at less than 800 rpm.
I've had it happen to my OX66 on the water while trolling and creek crawling.
RPM's need to be 800 or greater for proper cooling.
Down around 600 (especially while in gear) she will alarm after 5 to 8 minutes if you don't throttle up a little to 7 - 800.

You might try dropping her in the water at the ramp and see if she flows with the foot immersed.
If she does, your problem is the ears and lack of flow. If not...
 
If the original pump ate itself while running you may have pieces of the vanes lodged in the cooling passages. If it was whole when it came out, then no need to worry about that.

When was the last time the thermostats and pressure control valve was replaced?
 
It's a 225 Evinrude ('93).

But, to clear it up, it's worked perfectly fine in the past on the ears (dual feed setup). It would push water fine and produce a strong stream. Anytime the motor is run on the trailer (flushing after use, maintenence/trouble shooting), it's always hooked up. In the past, it's resulted in a good stream.

As for peices of vane, I guess that is a possibility. But would seem odd to me as it's been run 2-3 times (for good distances) after the replacement. I believe the thermostat was replaced, not sure about the PCV.

I did pull the plastic peice out where the indicator stream originates. It unscrews. I didn't see any debris (looked perfectly clean ........ and dry). I tried to find the passage way in order to run a wire through it but had no luck. Lighting was poor as well. Can't imagine anything got nested up in there as they would have had to gone through the very small opening but ants have been in the area. I would have just thought I'd have noticed though as I am around that area quite a bit.

Aside from continuing to put water on it (while NOT running) - what other means do I have to ensure the passageway is clear?
 
Do Evinrude motors still have a flush port on the back of the motor, just under the cowl?
My 2000 model year Johnson did.

If the `Rude has a flush port, try running water through there (motor not running) to see if anything comes out of the telltale.
That will at least tell if a passage is blocked or not.
 
Megabyte":31snz04i said:
Do Evinrude motors still have a flush port on the back of the motor, just under the cowl?
My 2000 model year Johnson did.

If the `Rude has a flush port, try running water through there (motor not running) to see if anything comes out of the telltale.
That will at least tell if a passage is blocked or not.
Click to expand...

To be honest, I am not sure. The boat didn't come with specific documentation. I have a service manual that I bought online (generic) but it covers a range of Evinrude engines (variables sizes and a small range of years). In the past, I've always just hooked the ears up to the intake and gone about things that way.

That being said, where the indicator stream comes out (telltale), you can unscrew the surrounding plastic nipple peice (it's set up to be removed with a socket). So I am left with a female threaded opening. But to introduce water, it would be forcing it backwards through the cooling system - not that I think it would matter is not turned on but with the motor running - I can't imagine it would be prudent. I am trying to find a suitable picture of what mine looks like but I am not having any luck.

But at best, I would have to screw in the hose end into this port if it would fit.
 
Im pretty sure you can buy an adapter that screws into the exhaust port on that motor. My friend had a 96 rude and he bought one that fit int here to allow him to flush the motor
 
Sorry, one MAJOR correction ................... it's a 2003 ............. not a 1993. Don't know where that came from.


2011-05-30_17-16-20_490.jpg

IMG00036-20110514-1127.jpg


Bad pictures but they weren't taken for the purpose of showing the telltale.
 
Can't tell from your photo, but if you look at mine, the flush port is directly center of the larger black rectangle below the cowl release.
At least, that is where it was on mine.
 

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See picture ... clean out that passage AND the plastic parts you remove. When re-installing, "aim" the pee stream so you can dee it from the side of the motor. You need to hold the inside part in place while you tighten the plastic nut.
 

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Guys - that you all for the information. It's helping me make sense of it all.

As I was hoping, you all have confirmed that the screw in peice that houses the tell tale is the port that is utilized for the flush kit. I've orderd the flush kit through my local Evinrude dealer and will pick it up Saturday morning.

In talking with him, I am hopeful the problem is minimal. I've already unscrewed the plastic peice to confirm that there is no blockage in that void. I've also utilized a small peice of wire and ran it thought the tubing (from the bottom intake up) as far as it would easily go. I didn't notice any blockages and I aven't tried to run it again though.

My dealer/new mechanic (because of his willingness to help me out) said that given the long down time since it's last use - it's quite possible that if I didn't THOROUGHLY flush the motor (not sure), the salt that was running through it (Ches Bay) could have caused the thermostat(s) to stick closed. Basically - almost like a minimal corrosion issue. He said that can sometimes happen which won't allow the water to circulate through. He said that if you hook up the rabbit ears and get the motor on - if you bump the throttle hard a couple of times, the added pressure of the water against the thermostat can 'release' it. He thought that seemed the most likely scenerio given that the pump was brand new and worked fawlessly since it's replacement.

So, prior to that, I am going to hook up the flush kit and try to flush it this way. Then I will put the tell-tale back in and push water through the rabbit ears. Start the motor and give the throttle a few hard blips to see if she breaks free. If not, back to the drawing board and I will put the boat up for the winter.

Keeping fingers crossed.
 
Why not just pull the t-stats out and take a look at them? Simple enough to do and all you need is some gasket sealer to reseal the juncture and whereas your dealer is so helpful, he could porbably give you the torque value or a wrench-arc value. I have the factory service manuals for OMC/Bomb manuals for a '96 V6 and a '06 DI V6 but the t-stat torque value could be different for a V4, not sure, so I would prefer not to give you wrong data.
 
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