Oil Change Conundrum!

[Photoguy]

So I managed to hit my 20 hour mark on my new Suzuki a few weeks ago which means it's time for my first oil change. Hmmm...it's not lost on me that it's soon to be September and then in quick order October. I haven't yet done the math, but there are a couple of scenarios that come to mind.

1. Have the boat hauled at my local marina and have the yard (Yamaha dealer) perform the oil change. Pluses are that it would be simple to arrange. I wouldn't even need to be there. Minuses are that it would cost a few hundred for the haul on top of what I expect to be 2-300 for the service (maybe I'm way off I haven't looked into it yet.

2. Haul the boat myself, but this typically means calling in a favor or two from a friend and is far less convenient than above. The plus is that I save the haul out fee, everything else would be roughly the same (with the exception that I could bring it to the Suzuki dealer).

In both cases however, I'm seeing the conundrum...If I get this done in the next week or so I will probably have only a few weeks of use until it's time for me to start planning/thinking about putting her up for the winter, and then presumably I'll need another oil change before winter storage to be ready to go for next season

If that's the case, my questions are:

1. If I get the oil change now, and only manage a few hours use in the rest of the season, will I (should I) plan on another oil change before putting her away?

2. (and I think I already know the answer, but I should ask anyway since you've read this far...) how critical is the 20 hour mark? is there any room to extend that for a few more trips on the 'old' oil? One hour, 2? 5? 10? I imagine that if *any* oil change is critical, it'd be the first to get rid of any junk from the new parts...but what do I know? :evil:

As always, appreciate the input!

 

[DaleH]

The 20-hour is THE most critical, as it flushes anything from the machining process and engine break-in!

I faced SAME issue and changed the oil. I went 20-more and did not change the oil at end of season. Why not? .... cuz' it was still fresh oil.

BTW, I did it on the launch ramp, with the LU oil too and I was one in less than an hour ...but I was fully prepared, then it was NASCAR-like baby!

 

[POGE]

For the break in I would also suggest you drain via the drain plug vs. sucking out the dip stick to remove as Dale stated any materials. Additionally, please check and read the warranty carefully on what this legal document states how, what and by whom this procedure should be done and is considered agreeable to the terms of maintaining the agreement. Remember they can hook most new OBs/ engines up to a computer to see if they can detect any areas that can be determined a voided action under the warranty.
On a much happier note:
I just got a suck up through the dip stick Big Boy Top Sider oil changer . Funny how the Yamaha manual actually recomends this ( I prefer to drain to get any junk out) However, easy for at-the-dock-in-the-water change AND the mannual states this method. I save oil receipts as proof, although pushing 900 hours still under warranty extension period.

 

[DaleH]

Good point. Note the Suzi is far easier to drain, so no vacuum pump is needed. Most 4-stroke makers advise against their use ...

 

[Photoguy]

Thanks Dale!
Kind of what I was expecting, but just wanted to erase my doubts.

Fwiw, the ramp I haul at is unlikely to let me do an oil change there (harbormaster's office is right next to the ramp). Maybe I'll simply bite the bullet and have the yard do it ( I have a $175 credit I could put towards it), keep the new(er) oil in the motor over the winter and be good to go in the spring.

My first experience with a 4 stroke injected engine...anything to winterizing other than making sure all the water is out of it and running some stabilized fuel through? If nothing else that might be an area to re-coup some costs.

 

[Photoguy]

Thanks for the tip POGE. When I bought the engine the dealer did say that they didn't need to be the ones to service, but you're right...I should check the paperwork just to be sure.

This would be a non issue other than the time of the season. My biggest concern was having to do the change twice. Once now and then again in a matter of weeks (weather depending).

 

[warthog5]

The New DF-300AP I have is easier to change than the '03 DF-140's I had.

You can get to the filter with just the upper cowl off on the 300..... The 140's you had to pull the STB side lower cowl.


Hint........ Drain the oil first..... Then remove the filter you will only spill a couple of drops doing it that way.

It's a simple job.... DO NOT overtighten the drain plug! 14ftlbs is all it calls for.

My dealer supplies the first filter and oil for the change.... They would do it for free, but It's more of a pain to get it to them than for me to do it.

I use a 5gal bucket to drain the 300 into.....It holds OVER 8qts.

 

[DaleH]

It's a simple job.... DO NOT overtighten the drain plug! 14ftlbs is all it calls for.

NOTE - Per the book you MUST put a new washer on each time this bolt is removed, it works like a 'crush' washer and that is why the torque spec is what it is ...

I use a 5gal bucket to drain the 300 into..... it holds OVER 8qts.

I use this container to not only catch it, but store it until I can get to the recycling center. I made a small shelf of plywood, "L"-shaped, bungeed to the lower unit (piece against motor covered with 1/2" foam) and it works slick! Look ma' ... no hands! Where Suzi put the drain bolt is ideal, the used oil comes out in a neat flow as thick as your index finger, dropping out and away from the motor. Zero spillage, even at the fuel filter, on my DF250.

This motor could not be easier to take care of. I like it so much that I looked into upgrading to a DF300, but besides co$ting me a chunk of change, I'll lose fuel economy, so forget it ...