Raised outboard

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jcmcclellan

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North Andover Massachusetts
Raised outboard up two holes. Can't go any higher as there is only four holes. It was in second hole from the factory. Probably be next week till I can run it. What can I expect to see? An increase in fuel economy? Speed? Will it handle any better? Don't need rpm's. I already run up to 6000 no problem
Boat is a 23' DVCC, F250, Rev 4 19".
Before moving, never had a problem blowing out and could trim up to nine bars.
 
jcmcclellan":36vkpoik said:
What can I expect to see?

An increase in fuel economy?
Speed?
Will it handle any better?
Don't need rpm's.

All 4 I'd bet, as one thing you always get is more RPMs ...
 
Can i ask why you raised it if you had no problems to begin with?
 
You may have to come down one. I lost speed but better in all 3. I am looking to see how you do. I also put a shim on the back, I never use my trim tabs anymore. Best $50 I ever spent.
2320 DV PH -full transom
Marty D.
 
I have a feeling it will be OK all the way up. With the Rev4 prop, it wouldn't ventilate till I trimmed up to nine + bars. I'm going to try to get out Friday for a test run.
 
i raised mine yesterday 2 holes. seemed better. didnt get a chance to test in a sea put so far it seems like the right move. better fuel economy by a little better top end by a little more rpm by 200. didnt blow out in turns. so far so good. i wrote a little more in depth report on the projects section.
 
How come Parker boat don't set the motors up this way ? I know some dealers put the motors on. When I first did this, it worked out so good that I call Parker and told them.
I went a step more and put a shim behine the motor and now I donot have to use my trim tabs. It helps keep the bow down. The only time I use the tabs is for side ways. I would burn over 80 galls. when I when offshore. Now 49 gallons. Thats a BIG-Big -- jump !!!!
If you have a C.C. parker will see the diff. but a Full transom Parker -Big Diff. The way gas is today -this means one more trip a week for me.
Getting back to that shim --the cost was $50. Its cheaper than going with biger tabs. . If you need any picture of that shim--e-mail me at
[email protected]
 
Not sure if parker does it from the factory or expects the dealers to put them on. I looked and it seemed as if the motors were at one time in the holes that i have them in now which is moving the motor 2 holes up. I called and talked to the dealer and they said they never really tested it or anything. I would imagine that a majority of people who own boats would never notice the difference? either that or it is the safest way to make sure people dont run with the motors out of the water too much causing damage?
 
alright talked to a local dealer and asked why they dont try the motors out in the different mounting heights and its because the manufacturers dont pay for it. so they stick them all the way down and hand over the keys.
 
Is the formula with a bracket mounted engine supposed to be the same as a transom mount; cavitation plate even with the keel, or is their another thinking on this. I thought I read somewhere mounting it higher on a bracket mount is actually better for boat persformance. Thanks. :roll:
 
Yes--You don't see alot of C.C. with a full transom. I went up because I had a 2320 full transom P.H.-with only a 200 HPDI. Need More Power !!
 
i was thinking the same thing but i ended up measuring from the underside of the bracket even with where the cavitation plates are and its almost 5 feet. but definately no real formula move it run it try it again.
 
i was thinking the same thing but i ended up measuring from the underside of the bracket even with where the cavitation plates are and its almost 5 feet. but definately no real formula move it run it try it again.
 
Move it -adj. it - try it- THATS it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Thats a real nice C.C. I miss mine. I donot think anyone here has a fulltransom C.C. NICE !!!!!! When I want to inlet fish I go on my buddys Parker C.C. Its makes fishing enjoyable. Wish you lived near me.
Lots of luck
 
going down one hole today. With engine raised all the way boat planed out really quick, mpg was 3.7 at 4200. Boat just didn't feel "right" though. Had to tuck it in when cornering. Also seemed to take more effort to turn the wheel. If I was going to run straight lines on glass smooth days I'd probably leave it alone. It was in the second hole from the factory with the black Yamaha prop. So it should be spot on with the Rev 4.
 
optimaxfish":bllio1kl said:
jcmcclellan":bllio1kl said:
going down one hole today. With engine raised all the way boat planed out really quick, mpg was 3.7 at 4200. Boat just didn't feel "right" though. . Also seemed to take more effort to turn the wheel. 4.

if you trim the motor out, boat will steer just fine, it'll feel right.

So you are now 2nd hole up from the bottom?

Any 2520 MV's with a bracket have any comments on where they have their motor mounted?

I think mine is too low. I have mine 2nd hole from the top.
 

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TOL,

You are one plate too high. That is a spray plate, not the anti-ventilation plate. The next plate down (just above the prop), should be right at the waterline when at WOT. Will be varying degree of depth below the waterline when at lower speeds.

Dave
 
After reading all of these replies, I decided this weekend - after using the boat for 4 seasons - to check and see what hole the engine was mounted in. The bolt is in the top hole. Several open holes below the bolt. Does this mean that the engine is as low as it can go? The engine is
on a bracket. I also leaned way back while the boat was a criuse to see if I could see the A/V plate. Lots of spray there. Looks like a lot of the
lower unit is in the water making lots of spray. It appears that the plate that I can just barely see is the one above the A/V plate. I can't see that one at all. Too much spray. I'm running a SWS2 15.5" x 17 prop.
So the question is - Do you think I shoud have Don's Marine mount the engine one hole higher? I am pulling the boat from the slip in 2 weeks, and at that time, I'll run a straight edge from the hull bottom to the A/V plate as confirmation. Also, as most could guess, the boat is transom heavy. We never use all of the up trim, just 3-4 bars max, and that is to help the reverse with this prop. So please explain about this shim.
When the engine is tucked in all the way, I'd like to get more "up-thrust" from the engine, or I guess you could call it "bow-down" thrust. Sort
of like using some of the engine thrust to do what down trim tabs do.

Thanks and regards,
Paul

2005 2310 / F250
Pt Judith Salt Pond
Pt Judith, RI
 
I'd go up 2 holes, maybe 3 (which should be ALL the way up) if running a premium SS prop that would stay hooked up.

I also would never add a shim to have the engine aid THAT much to getting on plane, minimum 12" by 18" or 9"or 12" by 24" trim tabs would be my 1st choice. If you read my other posts on tabs, where I run a fuel computer, I can dial in a 10% to 20% fuel economy improvement by use of the tabs.

Like the other days, seas were on a guartering to on the bow, at about 10 o'c position. I added ONLY tab to the left tab (lowered starboard side of the boat). Now, yes, I was heeling a bit, but it was safe as I wasn't in serious seas. But more importantly, it raised the weather-side of the boat out of the chop and I gained a full 20% mpg improvement over where I'd be if I had no trim tabs.

I, for one, will never run a boat like this again without Bennett trim tabs, radar, and a fuel computer ... in that order.
 
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