Replace Batteries?

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SeaLand

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I purchased a 23SE new back in 2016. I haven't had any issues but one (discussed below) however curious to see when people switch out the batteries considering I am passing the 4yr mark.

I would rather be proactive than being stuck with dead batteries but is 4 years too early? I haven't seen my volts drop below 12V; usually around 14V but will hover around 12/13 if I am anchored and have electronics on but usually pops back to 14.1V when i crank the engine and the batteries are able to charge back up.

The only issue I have had is the Garmin GPS/finder will "reboot" when I crank the motor back on after being at anchor. It's as if the power was cut off to the Garmin unit and it cycles as if being turned on when starting the boat cold. Never had this issue before but started just last year hence the reason I am thinking the batteries are getting weak.

In the past, I kept the boat high and dry at a dry rack marina but now I have it trailered at the house; I don't want to arrive at the ramp only to find out my batteries are dead or worse, won't crank when out on the water.

Let me know what you guys think, TIA!
 
Your at the "Normal" time period to swap them out if you have lead acid batteries.

But still....I'd charge them and have them load tested.

Your readings of 14V - 14.1 have nothing to do with the battery, except they are being charged.
You are NOT reading battery voltage there.....You are reading alt. output voltage.


The only issue I have had is the Garmin GPS/finder will "reboot" when I crank the motor back on after being at anchor.

And this is why I push the BEP battery Cluster switches. Your spiking your electronics.

I have installed 41 of them so far and fixing to be 2 more.

Why is it Spiking the electronics and what causes it, you ask?

Because you do not have a dedicated House battery.

You have a Perko switch.....Which ever battery you select....becomes the Starting battery. When you hit the key to Start.....The mad rush of current to spin the Starter motor drops the Voltage below the requirement for the electronics's and the electronics's drop out.


BEP Cluster Switch.

You start your day by turning the Start switch and the House switch to ON.
At the end of the day you turn them both OFF.

It doesn't get any simpler than that. You don't have to remember to turn from Batt 1 when going out and switch to Batt 2 on the way back in. Just something else that you have to remember.

OK so what goes on with it is done all automatically thru the VSR [Voltage Sensitive Relay]

The Relay is in a closed position. As soon as you hit the key to crank the motor the relay opens, due to sensing a large surge of current.

Ok the motor is cranked and running now. The relay is still open. The Alt is charging the Start battery until it reaches a set voltage and charge.

Then the relay closes and is back charging Both the Start & House Battery.

Now another feature that happened when you hit the key is your electronics were ON and wired from the House battery. This will stop any spiking of the Electronics. They don't like to be spiked!

OK...Now your out sitting on the beach. The motor is OFF, but you have the Radio playing for hours. The Relay senses the drop and opens the relay again. The radio is still playing, but the relay just disconnected the Start battery out of the circuit so that it stays at Full charge to start the motor.

When you get ready to leave the beach and crank the motor the alt will charge the Start battery first and when it's back up, the relay will close and charge the House battery.

There is one more switch on the Cluster. It is the Combine switch. Think of that as Jumper Cables without having to dig them out and hook them up. This switch would normally be in the OFF position, until you need a boost on the start battery. Then turn it to ON. After the motor is running turn it back OFF.

Everything is all Automatic. No thinking about it. Your batteries will have a much better charge in them.
 
Thanks Warthog! Stupid question, how do you load test them?

Also I run with both batteries on; why would it spike my GPS?
 
Well.....If you don't have a Load Tester and know how to use it.......Then take the batteries out of the boat....Charge the batteries.......You can't Load Test a weak battery....It will give a false reading.

Then take them to a place like Auto Zone or Orillies auto parts and they can Load Test them for you.


I run with both batteries on; why would it spike my GPS?

Because you still have No dedicated House battery... Refer back to what I said in the first post.

By putting that switch in BOTH.....You have paralleled 2 batteries making it in essence 1 Big battery.

Now......It's done all the time.....But here is why it is Bad to do that.

If you have one of the batteries getting weak...or has a bad cell....Thats the bad battery...Right? Well when paralleled The good battery will discharge into the Bad battery to try and keep it up.

This results in 2 dead batteries and now your dead in the water.
 
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