Rubrail repair

[johnsw]

Some recent stormy weather, rough water and a too loose dock line caused me to hammer a piling pretty good. My rubrail took the brunt of the blow and a small section, about 15", pulled free. I've got a few broken screws and a couple pulled right out of the hull.

What's a good way to repair those gaping holes left in the hull? I'm thinking a snug dowel with epoxy should do the trick and also be drillable if need be when I replace that section of rub rail. Is there a better way? My plan is to cut out the damaged section of rub rail up to where it's still secure, and fit in a new piece. Luckily, only visible gel coat damage is a small 1" gouge in one spot that didn't go through to the glass.

John S.

 

[Megabyte]

Never done this type of repair before, but I will be interested in hearing of anyone who has.

 

[DaleH]

Not too sure a 'splice' will work over the long haul, as that rubber expands/contracts with temps, so you could end up with the possibility of a gap in cool temperatures. Best bet thus might be to effect the repair during cooler weather. I think if it were me and I was going to attempt a splice, I'd 'paint' the hull area behind with the splice would go in black, in case a small gap develops. I also would not do a 90-degree or straight cut splice, but would try to do a scarf joint of some angle, at least 45-degrees, perhaps greater.

Scarf Joint:

Thing is ... you won't have any practice material, less new stock you buy. Once you cut the hull-side piece ... you're done.

You could plug the holes with that 2-part epoxy stick (green on outside, gray on inside) as my 1st choice ... or you could use marine-tex.

I for one, don't use or advise marine-tex use anymore as their mix schedule S#$KS for making up small amounts. With that epoxy stick, you cut off what you need, kneed it together until it forms one color and you're good to go!

Also if needed, you could add a backing plate to that section of the hull so other thru-bolts have an extra piece of material to hold thru/to, even a piece of 1/8" aluminum or composite would help, though the epoxy stick should do it. GREAT stuff! And even cures UNDERwater so I advise all boaters to keep a stick (< $10) on board.

 

[johnsw]

Thanks for the tips. Didn't think of the epoxy stick. The fishing is picking up and I patched it back together well enough with some new screws in the places between the originals and crazy glue to keep the insert in place, so I'll wait a bit unless I have to haul out for some other reason.

Splices can be tricky because of the gap on both ends. I did this once before on my prior boat, but that one had an alumium rubrail with large rubber insert so the gap wasn't visible unless you stood right next to it. In this case, I think a small gap could be a good thing as it will act as an expansion joint because like you said, the pieces will expand and contract differently. Figured I'd butter both ends with some black RTV silicone when I attempt this to fill the gap and provide some give. Something for the 'to do' list for my next haulout.

JS

 

[dcunniff]

No big deal, but if the impacts were hard enough you might get some crazing in the gelcoat near the rail with time.

Dana

 

[atlanticbeach]

Don't cut the rubrail at 45 degrees. The best way to do it is to use a mitre saw to cut the replacement piece at 90 degrees and then bolt or screw the rubrail down within 4 inches of the end of each piece. Overlap the new piece about 1/8 of an inch beyond the other section. Pull both of them out and align them and you can apply some heat if necessary and then take a rubber hammer and slam them to the gunwale and use a clamp to hold them if possible to make it easier to get them adjusted perfectly in alignment. Then screw or bolt the two pieces close to the join and in cold weather the joint will not separate.

This is how you install the Taco hard plastic rubrail that has the stainless insert. i just put one on my 18 Parker and it is awesome looking. Changes the entire profile of the boat.