Solar Mount

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jersey Jim

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 9, 2007
Messages
310
Reaction score
0
Location
South Jersey. Port: Bree-Zee-Lee m
Shawnee, Here is some info you were asking about. I didn't want to put it in Vince's pedestal thread. The panel is mounted on a 15x16" piece of 1/2" starboard I cut out, then drilled and tapped the corners to 1/4-20 threads. Panel has 4 brass grommets in corners, with 1/2" holes for mounting, bungies, etc. The panel is flexible to a degree, 20 degrees actually (they claim), so will follow contoured roofs, etc. It is a 15-watt model. It came with a polarized connector that separates from another cable with battery clamps. This allows you to separate the 2 cables and insert their charge controller in between. The controller handles 8 amps, and switches on at 13.0 volts, and off at 14.1 volts. The optional controller box is tiny (cigarette pack size) and cost 19.95. They claim any panel above 12-watts needs one. I highly recommend it if you don't want to boil your batteries, even lightly. Panel itself generates 85% of an amp (850mA) in directs sunlight. I was amazed at how the output current doubled by aiming it directly at sun, opposed to just lying flat on my cooler. I keep battery switch selected to "Both" so they both charge together, and more importantly, that the bilge pump that is hard-wired directly to one battery, now has the capacity of both batteries. I kept running the washdown hose, that I know draws more than the bilge pump, and after shutting of hose, voltage would immediately climb back up in the 13's (voltage). A convenient volt meter is the voltage display on the chart plotter/FF. Just toggle the power button briefly (if Garmin) to go from full brightness to selected dim setting, or blank. This allows you to see how the charge builds without bright display pulling it down. End of season and all solar products went on sale at West Marine for 20% off. They had a 5-watt size but too small to maintain 2 batteries. 1 amp (almost) is more than enough to maintain batteries once coming in to dock charging both on alternator. Otherwise, could several days to bring them both up from low. Hey, 7 or so free amp-hours a day is somewhere around 50 amps of charging a week for not having any loads on, is more than enough. I see the voltage climb immediately. Think the company is Nature Power or something like that.
The rod mount I bought separately, and is same one that came with my 31" Magma bait/fillet table. Is fully tiltable due to a ball mount and lever lock. I chose the opposing 30-degree angle to offset the rod-holder's 30-degree tilt. The inserted end of the rod has many notches, so can rotate entire assembly if swivel range not aiming where you want it. That company make MANY sizes of panels. This was 2nd or 3rd from smallest, but like I said, 50 amps a week is more than enough. If you don't want to have any minute parasitic loads, like stereo antenna, electronics that draw a few milliamps when off, just shut off your breaker feeding the helm, just keep the 2 batteries joined on "both". Some will probably argue that 2 parallel batteries will pull each other down when not charging (dark), but I somewhat disagree. If both batteries were purchased at same time, I bet is negligible. I plan on lifting a battery lead to measure interaction current between the 2 when not charging. Will post results. Initially before making the panel mount, and using windshield to aim at sun, I back-fed cigarette lighter socket (power socket) out of laziness and a quick way to make battery connections.

A battery is fully charged at 12.65 volts, and every time I measured at the end of a night, the joined pair was always 12.8 v or higher (before sun came up). Then climbed higher from there. I've always liked this coincidence... specific gravity of acid for fully charged battery is 1.265 and the corresponding voltage for that SG is 12.65 volt. Merely a coincidence, just move the decimal place. Only data point that will occur.
 

Attachments

  • Solar Mount 1.jpg
    Solar Mount 1.jpg
    87.8 KB · Views: 387
  • Solar Mount 2.jpg
    Solar Mount 2.jpg
    81.9 KB · Views: 387
  • Solar Mount 3.jpg
    Solar Mount 3.jpg
    209.8 KB · Views: 387
I like it :)...... Glad to see you involved a charge controller, or AKA as a regulator.

If you don't.....it will overcharge the battery and cook the water out.
 
warthog5":rop7k8m2 said:
I like it :)...... Glad to see you involved a charge controller, or AKA as a regulator.

If you don't.....it will overcharge the battery and cook the water out.
Yeah, that open-circuit peak voltage of 21 volts in the specs made me nervous. If the battery were smaller and a single battery, and fully fully charged, the voltage could climb higher more easily without a regulator. I was right on the edge of needing a controller, especially with 2 batteries, but just for the fact that it prevents back-flow of current into the batteries at night. I could have easily just used a 1 amp diode for that (1N4001), to use as an electrical "check-valve", but that doesn't keep the voltage regulated. The diode would, however, drop 0.6 volts across itself, as a silicon junction will not conduct as well as a piece of wire. That in itself robs some charging voltage (but luckily not current). I have yet to see my two batteries paralleled together, climb higher than 13.5 volts. Of course I didn't stick around too many hours to check on it. Like I said, a 15-watt panel is right on the edge of needing a controller, but if only 1 battery was selected, it may then have climbed to the shut-off voltage of 14.2 volts. I kind of like it better hovering in mid 13's.

Hey, 40 free amps a week is enough to replenish half of a group-24 deep cycle battery's entire capacity! I know my couple of little parasitic loads are not depleting that much. I got too lazy to remove the cushion's 6 snaps to re-engage the house breaker in the battery compartment, so I just let the little stereo antenna's active amplified antenna with LED, glow all day. I plan to tie that antenna and the stereo (that glows a dim red LED too), into one of the panel's rocker switches. The very bottom switch is labeled "GPS", although it is not needed to power the chart plotter. It powers the plotter's network bus, that is needed to get my DSC/MMSI function on the radio to read the plotter's Lat/Lon. What a waste of a switch. so are 2 wiper switches. I don't suspect more than 20 or 30 continuous mA's, but it still bugs me, especially over these past several rainy days. A small 25 mA continuous load would have to run a day and a half (34 hours) to consume what that little panel replaces in just 1 hour (850 mA). Hardly a concern.
 
Thanks for posting this information on the solar charger Jim. You did a great job on this project. I'm sure others will also appreciate it as well and be able use your set up on their Parker.
 
shawnee83":5yu3ci69 said:
Thanks for posting this information on the solar charger Jim. You did a great job on this project. I'm sure others will also appreciate it as well and be able use your set up on their Parker.
You're welcome. I've gained plenty of knowledge from this board, and can only hope to return a fraction of it.

Was really all "off the shelf" parts, other than cutting the starboard. Got tired of worrying about the thin solar panel blowing off the cooler as light as it is, which wasn't an optimum angle anyway for sun exposure and rain drainage. Sometimes it's the simple projects that are the most practical.

Am trying not to use shore power, as electrolysis & ground loops make me worry. I have a real sweet "end spot" on the dock, but the power is between my neighbor and his neighbor. He lets me run a cord & hose. I'd rather be on the end and not have people crashing into me. Plus, very close to the car. My cord reaches ok, but only pull it out to run a tiny electric heater when sleeping aboard. Had a few cool nights so far. Use the low 700 watt setting cuz only a 14-ga cord.

Got a great dock neighbor who shares the same finger dock as me. He bought his 2120 out from under me this summer. Spent enough time on it deciding if I could make cockpit work. I'm glad he did though, because the dealer picked out a few options for the boat before even meeting the eventual owner. I got to pick out my own options, actually over half of them on the list. Only took 6 weeks and 1 day from order to arrival. Plus, didn't have to settle on the 2016, but got 2016 price on a '17, right before factory increased them mid-July. He has the Horizon blue hull and I opted for the Ice blue hull. He did end up with a 200hp too though.
 
Sounds like you have a great situation at your boat home. I think your solar charger is the way to go for all the reasons you stated. I was in more of a need to add a solar charger for mine until last month. I previously stored my boat in a secure but open yard and I wanted to use one to keep the batteries top off between use which during the season would be 2 or 3 weeks apart or so. Obviously in the off season as well which for my area is from mid/late Dec until about mid/late March. Anyway, last month I picked up a spot in what I call, an inclosed Boat Barn? Now I can't use the solar charger though unless I can run long cables out the back of the building or something? I'm thinking that cable length would be an issue with the charger and not work? I'm planning on adding a hard wired battery charger however over the off season. I planned to do it last winter but didn't get to it. When I'm in Beaufort I rent a slip from the town docks which have full facilities and I plug up the shore power. As I'm only ever there for 2 or 3 days at a time I don't worry to much about the loose current etc.. I do want to use that time to have my batteries at a full charge however.

No offense to you boat neighbor but I think your color is the better of the two. I really like that Ice Blue(don't dislike the darker but like yours better). I've always wanted a boat that color or Seafoam Green. I've only ever ordered one boat brand new and optioned it. It's nice to be able to do that. I'm sure your are like a kid on Christmas morning everytime your on it. Enjoy!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6117.JPG
    IMG_6117.JPG
    171.4 KB · Views: 302
shawnee83":17tscgut said:
..... Now I can't use the solar charger though unless I can run long cables out the back of the building or something? I'm thinking that cable length would be an issue with the charger and not work?...

Shawnee, don't rule out solar yet, here's why. A 16-ga extension cord, 100-feet long has 200 feet of conductor. This comes out to be 0.8 ohms. This resistance only becomes a problem with higher currents. Luckily solar chargers needed to top off batteries need only be low current. My panel only generates .850 amps. That amount of current running through 0.8 ohms of cable only loses 0.68 volts. At half an amp, the same 100-foot cable only drops a voltage across it of 0.4 volts. I would test it first without a charge controller, and if you are lucky enough to build up a voltage higher than you need, then inserting a controller may work well enough. I can simulate the cord resistance on my setup, by simply inserting a resistor inline with my panel and monitor the peak voltage achieved.

The way I came up with the cords resistance is as follows. The AWG system assumes 1 ohm of resistance for every 1000 feet of #10 ga. wire. For every 3 gauge sizes smaller (opposite for larger), you double the resistance. 13 ga. is 2 ohms/thousand, 16 ga. is 4 ohms per thousand. Our 100 foot cord has 2 conductors, therefore 200 feet. This is 20% of our 4 ohms. (0.8 ohms). Even more favorable lower resistance for that cord if you double up the green ground wire with either the white or black. This way half your cable (100') is 0.4 ohm, and the double up pair is only 0.2 ohms, resulting in 0.6 ohms. Now that equates to a voltage drop/loss of only a 0.51 volt loss at .85 amps. So don't rule it out yet, especially if you are permitted to run a cord, and especially if you can get by shorter, or even use a 14-ga cord (still affordable). All these factors improve the situation. Let me know if I can help test something out.
 
I finally got a chance to measure how bad the parasitic loads of my stereo and powered antenna was robbing from my batteries at night and from my solar charger by day. I only have 0.85 amps of solar charging. For some reason, Parker decided to leave the Jensen MS3A stereo, and powered antenna, powered directly and not through a switch. The tag hanging on the power wire of the stereo even states not to wire to a continuous source, but to use an ignition switch, or accessory switch. I measured a whopping 0.165 amp draw when stereo was off. 0.016 amps was from the antenna, which I can live with. Needless to say, I re-wired that stereo to the Nema power rocker switch.

While I was at it, and had a meter inserted between battery and lifted cable, I measure all loads individually. There are many times I wonder just how long I should leave a load running before starting the motor, or charging. Without knowing the draws, it's all guesswork and needless worry. Especially when it comes to run-times on bilge pumps vs battery capacity. Below is a chart of those current draws.

Another disappointment I encountered, was with the 40-amp helm breaker mounted right next to the battery switch. It did not have a manual trip to interrupt the helm power. It requires an overload only, in order to trip the lever out sideways. However, on the other side of the battery switch, is a similar breaker, only 60 amps, and it has the manual-trip button. I think the dealer put this in to power the windlass. So while at it, I got a similar 40-amp breaker a mile away at West Marine and swapped it out. The associate assured me the bolt pattern was the same, but sure enough, I could only use one mounting hole and had to drill the other. I removed a Sea Choice 184 series, and replaced it with a 285 series. Pics attached below. Does anyone know if there are any differing attributes such as inrush current to trip, etc.? Both are 40 amp and no helm loads have any surges except maybe trim-tab motors, but they are so small, I somehow doubt it.
 

Attachments

  • 2120 Load Amps.jpg
    2120 Load Amps.jpg
    94.3 KB · Views: 278
  • Breakers 1.jpg
    Breakers 1.jpg
    75.5 KB · Views: 278
The associate assured me the bolt pattern was the same, but sure enough, I could only use one mounting hole and had to drill the other. I removed a Sea Choice 184 series, and replaced it with a 285 series.

I recently did this on my Hot Rod...... I usually buy the Blue Seas surface mount CB'ers.

But I needed a 200amp unit for the car due to installing a 150alt on it.

So I went to Fleabay and bought a waterproof unit. It looked just like the Blue Seas units, but when I got it the bolt pattern was swapped.
 
warthog5":3kmkeul5 said:
The associate assured me the bolt pattern was the same, but sure enough, I could only use one mounting hole and had to drill the other. I removed a Sea Choice 184 series, and replaced it with a 285 series.

I recently did this on my Hot Rod...... I usually buy the Blue Seas surface mount CB'ers.

Those are handy breakers, and a hefty alternator you have there. My motor home had that style breaker too. I meant to say "Blue Sea", not sea choice.
 
20160830_122514_zpsmy0vnztt.jpg
 
Back
Top