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The link I sent was generic. Definitely chose the appropriate switch to replace your current one(s). What are you going to do with your discarded battery switch? I would be interested in it if your not using it. I have a generator project for a remote cabin that I will need one for.


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Haha, I’ve been in attack mode before. Absolutely no pressure though. I’ll pm my address. And I’ll cover any expenses of course.


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Were your original switches On Off On ?

With these switches can you have only one item ON at a time so wiring items to a switch is important. It probably is no brainer after removing all junk attached to them


To date only need 8 switches but could change.


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Brent":17nmubc6 said:
Were your original switches On Off On ?

With these switches can you have only one item ON at a time so wiring items to a switch is important. It probably is no brainer after removing all junk attached to them


To date only need 8 switches but could change.


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The only ON OFF On should be your Nav/ANC switch
 
fannin":rj78khrg said:
Brent":rj78khrg said:
Were your original switches On Off On ?

With these switches can you have only one item ON at a time so wiring items to a switch is important. It probably is no brainer after removing all junk attached to them


To date only need 8 switches but could change.


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The only ON OFF On should be your Nav/ANC switch

Agreed. The rest should be a standard on/off variety unless you decide to use a momentary for your horn (which I did).


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Brent":2eyb9s8a said:
Really?. All of mine are 3 position except one and agrees with panel switch labels. Since my boat is a 94, maybe the code was changed. I been trying my best to get electrical system up to date.


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Perhaps an expert will jump in and correct me but I cannot think where a 3 position switch would be needed with the exception of the nav/anchor lights.


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mheltunen":22b3ln1o said:
Brent":22b3ln1o said:
Really?. All of mine are 3 position except one and agrees with panel switch labels. Since my boat is a 94, maybe the code was changed. I been trying my best to get electrical system up to date.


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Perhaps an expert will jump in and correct me but I cannot think where a 3 position switch would be needed with the exception of the nav/anchor lights.


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Possibly bilge. Manual off auto


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fannin":23fyb3wg said:
mheltunen":23fyb3wg said:
Brent":23fyb3wg said:
Really?. All of mine are 3 position except one and agrees with panel switch labels. Since my boat is a 94, maybe the code was changed. I been trying my best to get electrical system up to date.


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Perhaps an expert will jump in and correct me but I cannot think where a 3 position switch would be needed with the exception of the nav/anchor lights.


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Possibly bilge. Manual off auto


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Yes, good point. Mine is not setup that way but that scenario makes sense. So possibly you may have a total of (3) switches with on/off/on. 1-nav/anchor light , 2-front bilge,3-rear bilge.

Post up a picture of your switch panel.


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Looks like you are getting a lot done Brent. All looks good/better. It makes me a little nuts too seeing all the automotive connectors on a boat. The manufactures should step up in that department and sealed heat shrink should be standard, IMO. You are going to like that BEP. I’m helping a friend with an install and we discovered we needed to redo some stuff to get just the engine and windless on the start side. Otherwise, it won’t function as designed. That’s the issue with wiring on used boats, previous things done tend to monkey stuff up. Good luck with the rest.
 
I only have one 3 position switch and it’s the Nav. Even my rear bilge, only bilge, is just a single for manual on but it’s wired directly to a battery with a float switch. That said, I would rather it be on a 3 position with one position being the power on for the float switch. That way, if I’m in the water I can turn that on but when not turn it off to eliminate the possibility of the float failing a running my battery down.
 
Thanks a million , I been waiting a long time for this day and correct all of the junk and do updates. New MFD, radar and autopilot can wait. I believe the Russians did the add on wiring Lol. Just glad we look at everything at once and have a plan. 1

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Perhaps an expert will jump in and correct me but I cannot think where a 3 position switch would be needed with the exception of the nav/anchor lights.

That is correct....

Possibly bilge. Manual off auto

No.....Just a ON/OFF.........The Auto works with the switch at the helm in OFF. Power is supplied to the pump via the float switch.

I Only use the Rule A matic Plus units. They have a Little lever that you can manually raise to test your pump before going to sea.

IF your running one of those All In One pumps......Get rid of it!

I yank them out all the time. No way to manually test, unless you put water in the bilge...What a PITA! But heres the main reason......They work off of resistance.....

Your pump will come on ALL the time.....This includes sitting on the trailer ...Killing your battery.

If it doesn't feel resistance....It stops......If it does feel resistance IE: trying to move water......it continues until no resistance is felt.

Manufactures put these in. Why? They are fast to install.

Same with Lenco trim tabs.
 
I bought the Blue Seas 12 circuit, cover and negative ground for the helm.

Making progress

It looking like panel switches and breaker are fine and will be checked tomorrow.

Pulled out more wire orphan and wiring linked to solar panels.

There was no negative bus bars and lots of extra wires to all of previous owners projects. Installed bar today and battery chargers.

25 years of add ons removed esp associated wiring. Saltwater wash down pump relocated. Relocated wires to Garmin and VHF radio. Antenna cable cracked and will order new one.


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