Thru hull scoop?

[Dawgs]

I plan on installing a thru hull scoop on my 2520 for a livewell and wash down. My question is what size scoop should I install?

 

[warthog5]

3/4in and couple that to a Dual Port Livewell pump.

The upper port goes to your livewell. The Lower port is a water feed to your washdown pump.

Install a Seacock and lube the ball with waterproof grease before you assy everything.

 

[SeanOC]

subscribing to this one. I plan to add a raw water washdown to my 2120 this spring, I do not have a livewell however. Looking for advice on the fitting, pump, hoses, etc.

 

[warthog5]

For the pump....Use a Jabsco Parmax or Jabsco Hot Shot. A Lot of boats come with Sureflow pumps....They don't call'em "No Flow" for nothing.

 

[SeanOC]

For the pump....Use a Jabsco Parmax or Jabsco Hot Shot. A Lot of boats come with Sureflow pumps....They don't call'em "No Flow" for nothing.

Thanks, I've heard good things about the Jabsco pumps.

 

[Dawgs]

ok I'm going with the clamshell through hull scoop. my question is this. when i screw the actual clamshell to the bottom of the hull....what is the correct way to screw it? do i drill oversized holes and refill them with epoxy or do i just screw it in?

 

[TWOBOATER]

I recommend a separate removable strainer so you can remove it to clean out barnacles / growth and paint it with anti-fouling paint. It has a bronze ring that permanently attaches to the hull around the thru-hull. The strainer is secures to that ring with bronze machine screws. Well worth the $20. at Overtons. here's a link:

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product ... oCZx7w_wcB

You can also get a strainer that is hinged so you can open it underwater to clean it out. Just remove a clevis pin and it opens up.

 

[TWOBOATER]

sorry, it's $40. still worth it

 

[Dawgs]

Thanks but I already have the strainer. My question is what's the best way to secure it to the hull?

 

[TWOBOATER]

No, you hard-core holes when drilling into cored fiberglass, that is, it has plywood or airex core sandwiched inside. On solid glass just drill the hole for the thru-hull. Dry-fit it with your backing plate and nut. Mark and drill for the strainer screws short enough that they won't penetrate the hull. Install with bedding inside and out. With an adhesive bedding the screws are almost unecessary once the bedding sets up.

 

[Dawgs]

Twoboater you kinda lost me. Do I bore a bigger hole and epoxy fill it for the screws or just a pilot hole and screw?

 

[warthog5]

No.....Just very small holes and screws that Do NOT go thru the hull and the Pilot holes for those screws do not penetrate all the way thru either....Be careful here.

I see his point about a removable clam shell for a boat that sits in the water.

For a trailer boat I use one similar to in the pix above.

The nut that comes with the scoop.....I do not use....The Seacock is the nut ... persay.......The stem of the scoop gets cut off a little so everyting lines up correctly. However.....I do have the nut on the stem when it is cut and use that nut to chase the threads as it is backed off.

 

[TWOBOATER]

Warthog, for simplicity sake can he just use the nut that comes with the thru-hull to mount it then just mount the seacock atop it, or is height an issue?

 

[Dawgs]

There's no height issue. I made a 3/4 fiberglass laminated backer plate that I plan on bonding to the hull with west system six10. Then I plan on using the seacock as the nut to secure the through hull. Then I plan on lag bolting the seacock to the backer plate. Does that sound right?

 

[warthog5]

Yes...... Exactly right.

If the nut were incorporated....The SeaCock would not sit flat.......There are boats that use the nut....Then they use a Ballvalve instead of a SeaCock...but I don't like that setup for several reasons.

a] not as strong
b] not as clean of a setup.