Tips for using a trailer in salt water.

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mulliganb

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Mexico Beach, FL
Gentleman, I am looking for some advice. I am picking up my new parker 2820xl week after next. It is coming with a Load Master aluminum triple axle trailer with disc brakes. The boat will sit on a lift behind my house most of the time but i will probably use the trailer 5 or 6 times a year. I have had boat trailers before but they were always used in fresh water. I plan on throughly washing off the trailer after each time i put it in saltwater, is there anything else I should be doing to prolong the life of the trailer as well as the disc brakes?
 
mulliganb":28017gvi said:
I plan on throughly washing off the trailer after each time i put it in saltwater, is there anything else I should be doing to prolong the life of the trailer as well as the disc brakes?

That is pretty much it except for servicing the wheel bearings annually.
Wash her down after use and enjoy her! :)
 
if i'm not going to use the trailer for a while, after rinsing the brakes from both sides, i'll drive it around the block a couple of times hitting the brakes firmly to engage them. of course you know it is important shield the tires from the sun, and also the wiring harness. 8)
 
Washing down with Salt Away has made a huge difference in corrosion control. My brakes don't look more than two years old (drums). The bearings are the hard part to monitor. Best to change annually, or at least inspect that often. Each time you pull the wheel replace the seals. They get weird when you try to reuse them. Check the hub temperature each time you walk by them when on the road.
 
I too use the salt-away on my trailer after each use. I replaced the backing plates and the drums the first of last year and they look the same as when I installed them.I hose the entire trailer down and flush the engine with salt-away each use and I believe it is some good stuff. It works for me.
I also watch the rear of the hubs for any grease leakage through the seals
If I find any I try to replace them as soon as possible. And I always use
double lip seals. Holds the grease in and the water out. Learned that from an old German mechanic on some O.J.T. training.
 
Thanks for all the tips, I purchased a jug of salt away today and will start washing the trailer down it each time I put it in salt water, thanks again.
 
Do yourself a favor and get oil bath hubs. They have a clear inspection sight in the hub and you can see the condition of the oil. Easy to inspect for water intrusion and uses standard motor oil. Essentially you should never need to remove or change the wheel bearings if you keep the oil in good condition. On my second year and really happy. You can change the oil without cracking the seal in about 5 minutes. I will open the drain on one side go around to the other and by the time I have the other side open I can go back and fill. Piece of cake and my hands are clean when done.
 
make sure you wash trailer off right after the dunk vs. later that day. I picked up a tip that seems to work. I was concerned about the practice leaving an oil slick at the dock but have found no such problem. I sprayed fogging oil on bolts, lugs, springs, ect and other places on the trailer. let the oil dry for at least a few days. It does not come off in the water a leaves a protective barrier against air ie:rust can't form.
 
optimaxfish":38bbyymw said:
As far as I know, oil bath hubs are made by TieDown Engineering. They are most famous to us fishermen as making some of the worst brakes in the industry. They are also known for making hardware to secure or "TieDown" house trailers.

My brakes are Kodiac Stainless and have had them on many trailers with no issues. These hubs are made by "Reliable" Not familiar with Tie Down

Seals on my oil bath hubs started leaking second year. Plugs to drain hubs are drilled deep back on spindles and were not indexed. In other words, I had to remove lugnuts to access the common rusted pipe plugs. Sometimes, had to remove wheel. Once the plugs/lugnut/wheel is removed, well, yes the oil will drain...allover hand, wheel, tire and driveway. The latter is not such a problem for me, as being a Southern RedNeck w/gravel drive, I can switch out the gravel. :D Remember, if you have a tandem, you'll have to move trailer 4 times to carefully position each drain at the 6:00 position.

No leaks, Plugs are indexed, No rusted plugs changed them to stainless as soon as I took them out the first time, No need to move trailer when wheels are elevated on a floor jack, No oil leaking on the ground as I use a paper towel roll as a track to channel the oil to a drain pan

Might be easier to break the seal on handy "see-thru" caps. After a year or 2, you'll be changing these out as they turn opaque milky yellow pretty quick.

Two years and still clear, may be the oil type or the heat from yours leaking. I plan on changing the inner O ring seal when I check the bearings next season 50 cents for the O ring and $15.00 for the end cap with the sight glass if it needs replacing. Still cheaper than changing 2 bearings and two grease seals per hub and can be completed with clean hands in a fraction of the time as grease hubs.

If and once the "Turbo Hubs" as they were once marketed leak out all oil, yer trailer will stop VERY soon. I have never had traditional grease hubs leak out and fail instantanously.

I see trailers on the side of the road all the time with spindles broke off. Have not seen one with oil bath yet (not to say it hasn't happend). You can see oil leak easier than you can see lack of grease in a grease filled hub. Either way it is operator error. People who travel long distances with trailers are urged to keep a spare hub, wheel and tools with you to make emergancy road side repairs. Same goes for oil bath or grease filled.

Heres the good side to oil bath hubs. Once they fail, pull off the (now) milky yellow hub, drain rest of oil and metal scrapnel, change bearings and look at the grease fitting drilled in end of axle.

If you are refering to bearing buddies they are a joke and if you pump grease in there until it comes out you just ruined your seal. Hardened grease in the passages will prevent grease from reaching the bearings and how do you know if water has penetrated your seal? Heated hubs? By then damage may be done.
You can now grease yer new bearings from the back side out, replacing old grease. :wink:
Where does the old grease go???? If it is comming out your seal they are trash and will leak. Not to mention getting slung all over your boat and trailer.

You may have had a bad experience with poor oil hubs but I have been trailoring boats for 20 years and think oil bath hubs are the best thing to happen to boat trailers ever.

I honestly cant think of one advantage of grease filled hubs over oil bath hubs on a boat trailer other than the initial cost. :wink:
 
Touche, Optimax.
There are a number of different bearings on the market today.
My self I have Posi-Lube and if in fact they fail I will look into the oil bath models.
I agree that the buddy bearings are a good idea but where does the old grease go and what is the integrity of the rear spindle seal as you stated?

Technology is changing daily and we need to keep up with it. Just because it was good 5, 10, or 15 years ago does not mean that it is good today.

Your views were point on.

Tom
 
Guys..Guys...let's play nice. Afterall, this is CP, not TheHullTruth.

AFAIK, I prefer the old fashion greased hubs with bearing buddies. I completely tear them down, clean, replace seals, and grease each fall before towing to the CBBT. I like to personally inspect the races and cones. That is the way my Grandaddy did it. That is the way my Father did it. That is the way I'm going to do it until I'm too old and feeble to sit on a 5-gal bucket in early Nov and do the job. When I get that old, I'll drop the boat in a slip and pay someone else to haul her in the winter and splash her in the spring...like Megabyte. :D :D :D

Dave

aka
 
optimaxfish":37099fel said:
maxout":37099fel said:
optimaxfish":37099fel said:
As far as I know, oil bath hubs are made by TieDown Engineering.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Man! you can use up red ink faster than a hussain obama recovery plan. :lol:
Note the first line...my comments were about TieDown Engineering oil baths.

My axles have a grease fitting in the end. No Bearing Buddies here. Try reading again. It's called PosiLube hubs. Spindle is drilled, old grease comes out front. It's what yer use after yer "take a bath" w/the oil bath hubs. :lol:

"I replaced my plugs w/ss plugs"........well, I guess that would stop the rusting problem, wouldn't it? :wink:

yer still pizzed about me calling yer favorite boat a "Flexible Flyer" ?

:D :D Octopus is my favorite boat but I like Ocean Yachts and Vikings for over 50' fishing boats. I'll try blue next time "red is a little bright" and blue is nautical :wink: Your not the first person I heard complain about Tie Down oil bath hubs I was just pointing out all oil bath hubs are not bad. I use Lucas synthetic oil in the hubs with good results (its sticky and synthetic). Just a recommendation I would suggest for a trailer used in any water.
 
Mulliganb

Please dont forget to use some of that Salt A-Way on those (2) Yamaha 250's once in a while.

Catfish
 
I've trailered over 50,000 miles. Here's where I am:

You can't beat the Posi-Lube system.

Bearing Buddies are overrated - grease is not a consumable; if you keep adding grease, it has to be going somewhere. It's also possible to push water (that's gotten under the cap) into the bearings by continually putting grease in the fitting.

Oil bath relies on the integrity of the seal. If the seal is good, your grease will last almost forever. If the seal is bad, your oil will leak out - and try finding parts on the road, but your grease will still do it's job (albeit possibly occasionally splattering blobs inside your rim - which by the way should alert you to the seal leaking WELL before bearing problems).

I've run without a dust cover and a leaking seal for thousands of miles and dozens of dunkings, most in salt water. If the hub is full of decent grease (I use WalMart in the cartridge than says "Marine") water cannot get to the bearings.

For my money, oil bath is a solution for a problem that doesn't exist, and Bearing Buddies at most, provide an incentive to be bearing conscious - YMMV.
 
Since we are talking about trailers, I am in the marker to buy one for a 2320 I bought this winter.

Any thought on float on trailers versus rollers for Parkers?
 
gundog":3v0buqyg said:
Any thought on float on trailers versus rollers for Parkers?

Search for the topic, get comfortable, grab a bucket of popcorn, and enjoy the reading. It's been debated about as extensively as 'which hull is right for me' and '2 stroke vs. 4 stroke'.

Good luck.
 
I did try searching. Didn't appear to be anything relevant ( I got like 22 pages). Checked the top ones.

I'll try again.

Does the search engine on this site list by most relevant?
 
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