Water Tank To Run Engine In At Home

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Catfish

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Fellow Parker Owners

What do you use for a tank to put your lower unit into to run your engine at home during the off season, after an oil change to check fill level, or for leaks, also after tune up, fuel filter change, or water pump job since you cannot use muffs because of the upper water intakes. Do you use a barrel, re-cycling bin, stock tank for horses? Any pictures would be appreciated.

Catfish
 
Catfish,

I have been trying to find a tank to flush my 250 HP Yam but cant seem to find one big enough since I need a clearance of about 28" inches so that lower unit fits comfortably inside the tank all the way to second intakes,I have looked at trash cans,but not big enough,waiting to see if one of those big black plastic containers that are used for large Trees at nurseries (plant) will fit.

Will keep looking at this thread to see if another Parker menber has solution.

Robert
2300CCDV
 
80 gallon stock tank. It's oblong, about 2.5-foot wide by 5-foot long. You can run a long time before heating up the water. I used to use a plastic drum I had cut the top off of, but I added one of those dole-fin type things and it wouldn't fit in the drum anymore.

I keep horses so I had several around. Check Craigslist.
 
Dave,

Understood,I did not know what a stock tank was until I did a search,that will work perfect as Rubbermaid makes one which is 100Gal. and its oblong shaped 51" long x 31" wide and its 25" deep.

Thanks.
Robert
 
Catfish,

I have not bought it yet as I did not know what exactly was a "stock tank",now that I know and have researched it on the internet and seen the sizes available,I was thinking that the 100 Gal. was the way to go because of size of opening.

I need to check on my 250 HP 4 stroke what is height of second water pick up from the keel of lower unit,the pick up which is right under cavitation plate as I need to cover that with water also,just to make sure that the 25" depth is O.K. and will cover that pick up.

Robert
 
I was in a hurry - whipped this up for $35.

Two Rubbermaid 31 Gallon containers (LOWE'S) added a fat bead of silicone to the flange of one, put the other on top, clamped, drilled, screws, washers and nuts. SawsAll'ed the end off and voila . . . .

26" depth, 15" wide and 31" high - all measured at smallest point. Big enough for my F225.

I know it won't last forever but how often do you really need to run the engine in the driveway?? Keep a hose running in it to keep water cool and fire it up.
 

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i guess one of the advantages of having the earlier model year f250 is NOT having the lower water pick-ups.......i just use the muffs (with a bungee cord to keep it them snug).
 
Mines an '06 225 - ran on the muffs and water didn't exit the pee hole. Put it in the tank and no problem.

My dealer told me never to run on the muffs. The previous owner must have because the plastic housing for the water pump was melted (but still functioned).
 
EDGEWATER":35eqp3dn said:
Mines an '06 225 - ran on the muffs and water didn't exit the pee hole. Put it in the tank and no problem.

......... the plastic housing for the water pump was melted (but still functioned).

yeah, you've got to make sure she is peeing by whatever means. usually it is running the engine on the (garden) hose port other than for brief periods that fry the WP housing.
 
I use the double muffs on my 150's and they pee every time, so I just figured it was ok, now that I have seen the trough that holds water, I might get one, then after I finished cleaning out the salt water, I can water the lawn ! I might order one of those from that place, mine pees fast !
 
I squeeze my 175 in one of those big green landscapers garbage cans. The 175 just fits.
 
Gentleman:

I apologize for taking so long. I finally was able to get a picture of the water tank, with the engine running, and a full pee stream. (I did have a hose with the water on in the tank just not in the picture) I was able to run engine for 20 minutes and the water never got warm. I bought the tank from Southern States, mentioned previously above, and sold for $64.99, it is a 70 gallon Rubber-Maid with a drain plug. The 100 gallon was only $5.00 more.

I have a Yamaha 250 4-Stroke engine, and fits in the tank perfectly. After doing maintenance, such as an oil change or water pump, or trouble shooting a no-start, I can now run it at home while the boat is on the trailer. This is also ideal for long lay-ups so that the motor does not sit without running for any extended periods, or a Salt-Away running flush.
 

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I was down having breakfast this morning at one of the local marina's and I saw a guy using this at the repair shop. I thought it was kinda neat but when you see the price you won't think it is.

http://www.yachtsee.com/flushingbag.htm
 

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The yama's have two pick ups for water. You can flush with dual muffs on one if you tape off the others to block from sucking air. I bought the largest rubber maid chest fill with water and kept muffs on the pick up's.
Before starting I flushed, I used the hose connect engine flush feature to "wet" the engine. Then ran the muffs in the tub , worked fine and muffled the sound for the neighbors. The motor's manual with the motor shows the two pick ups, the main cause for not being able to flush with just muffs on one set of pick ups.
 
I took the advice from others here and did same exact set up as CatFish,even down to the 4x4's to bring tank closer to skeg,couldnt' be happier with results,easy to fill and easy to drain.

You can even put some salt away in tank mixed with the water and let it run thru engine.

Robert
 
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