Recent content by jonas grumby

I cut 2 pcs. of stainless steel angle iron to length, match-marked and bored holes to fit the existing fasteners of the 2-piece console (my 1801 is a 2006 so this may not apply), using longer bolts- mounted the angle iron pieces, cut a piece of 3/4" PT plywood to fit. It works like a charm! As...

Thanks again for the pics and providing information. I ordered the trolling motor online and it was damaged upon opening. I sent it back and ended up turning the job over to a local installer. He charged $290 labor and did an outstanding job! I work 6-7 days a week and when I'm off, I want to...

Thanks for the response and pic! I am looking at the Minn Kota Terrova 80, 60" (wasn't sure which length to get), with batteries under the console. Thanks for the "Battery Tender" it looks like I will go with one as well! I am thinking of installing console nav-lights. Fun winter project! Jonas

I mostly fish inshore and am strongly considering mounting a trolling motor on my 1801. Any experience / advice with this application will be greatly appreciated! Jonas

Thanks Gentlemen! I've kicked the idea of installing a torsion axle around long enough, I believe I will go that direction as well as the galvanized hubs!

Megabyte- It has leaf springs

I have a 2006 1801 on an aluminum Road King trailer. I have replaced the bunk hardware and brackets with stainless steel. The boat gets splashed a lot in salt water and is thoroughly rinsed every time but the single axle is rotting out at the spindles and needs to be replaced. The axle is a...

My '06 1801 has rubber pieces that fit in the locker top recesses where the anchor ears fit under the latches. This causes a slight interference fit and no noise is created.

I have 250' of three-strand 1/2" and splay the line as FWD as possible in the locker. the anchor neck slips in towards the AFT side of the locker. I fought fitting the anchor in the lock hasps for a while until trying this technique. If your anchor line is stiff, soak it in a bucket with water...

Thanks for the responses! My trailer has 2 ea. 6" X 8" juniper bunks that run from about 6" short of the transom to about a 1' forward of where the hull rocks up and loses contact. They are custom beveled to fit the hull. The forward "rest" that I want to replace, touches the keel and is...

Looking at the Parker website pics, my plan for the smaller bunks is the way to go.

I have a 2006 1801 on a Road King aluminum bunk trailer. The FWD end sits on a bow rest which is essentially a post with a "Y" mounted on the FWD trailer cross-member, that helps guide the boat while loading. I am considering replacing the bow rest with a smaller / centered set of bunks to guide...

My aluminum boat trailer came with a galvanized bow-rest that is rotting out (boat gets dipped a lot and I rinse it after EVERY dip). A replacement is not super-expensive but I am wondering if I really need one. The boat is an 1801 and the trailer has 6X8 juniper bunks. I thought about resting...

4200/26, 5600/39 on my 2006-1801 with 115 Yamaha 4-stroke

I searched this forum and found out how to install 2, 30-degree rod holders on my FWD washboard. Used a 2 X 4 wedge at 30 degrees with a 1/4 inch pilot hole. Purchased a Ingersoll-Rand 2" hole saw that is about 4" long, you'll need that length as the wash board is 1" thick (do the geometry). Set...