Recent content by kingfish

The easiest remedy I know of is an anchor retriever. They are an inflated round fender buoy attached to a snap ring (4" - 6" diameter) by a short line - maybe 18" long. Run or snap the anchor line through the ring, toss the retriever overboard, and idle in a circle out near the end of the...

jhendrick (et al)- The last I knew (from talking with Spectrum directly via phone call), Spectrum didn't have any Parker gelcoat samples from which to make up raw gelcoat or patch paste kits, but they'd be willing to make some up if sent a sample. I have a small 2" core I drilled out of the...

Retraction - Don't google "post lights"! Instead, go right directly to: http://www.pipe-light.com/ Here is what I did on the trailer for my Outrage 22: http://www.photobucket.com/albums/v397/fingkish/Post%20Lights/? I'll try to post a couple of shots from my PhotoBucket album here when I...

I agree with livestock - put them up on your guide posts, and *do* use LEDs. Google "post lights" to find the most elegant solution for guide-posts lights out there! And for connections, is Ancor brand heat shrink cemented butt connectors. There are a couple of other brands out there as well...

In terms of legality (which I'm not sure if you are curious about or not, but I'll respond anyway), you should check the dep't. of motor vehicles or whatever agency covers overwide permits in whatever state(s) you plan to tow in, because you will be overwide. So far as your Escalade is...

Barkeepers Friend has oxalic acid in it so it will work to remove rust stains. It is also an abrasive as Dale said. As such, I prefer not to use it on fiberglass unless I'm very careful not to "work it in".

I trailer a lot; probably 5000 to 6000 miles per year average over the past 6-8 years. I live in Southwest Michigan, a little nearer to Lake Michigan than to Lakes Huron and Erie, and basically only boat the Great Lakes with annual trips to the Gulf or Atlantic. I wouldn't have a boat...

I'm still confused about posting photos; The photos were reversed in the preview, but came out in the order in which I posted them. And I edited the photos down to just under 256K in PhotoShop, but they came up here at much smaller files than that...guess I'll download the software offered here...

Well, OK then...Here goes try #2: (smaller files this time, and I now see that like PhotoBucket, I need to post from last to first, as I have photos reversed in order. I will get it!)

Porkchunker- I just got back to this thread and saw that I basically repeated everything you said (is there an echo in here?) - I must have been typing when you posted and I didn't see yours come up in front of me - sorry 'bout that!

Well, that didn't work...I'll try again later.

Megabyte- It might be a thought to consider alright - The smaller Whalers like your friend's Montauk don't have as deep or as large a sump area as my Outrage 22, so when the Montauk stabilizes there may be some water on the rear deck, but it should not be anywhere near as much as was evidently...

Megabyte- In a word, "yes". Think of a hunk of cork (or foam in this case) that has been scooped out like a bowl so it can hold water. Place the bowl in a body of water and it floats at one level. Fill the bowl with water, and it's level lowers, but it doesn't sink. Drill a hole on th...

Megabyte, et al- Some Whalers are self-bailing, but ALL Whalers are self-draining. There is a drain plug in the bilge at the transom (or motor well) that, if it had been removed, would have allowed the Whaler to drain and pop back up to or near it's natural static line. Some Whaler owners...

There must be some differences in the 2001 OX66 motors between the 200 HP and 225 HP that I wasn't aware of - the pressure relief valve on our 225 was easy to change out. Sorry yours was difficult, but I hope your overheating problem is solved. :?