greatcir
Well-known member
Grouperjim - where did you buy your Bennett plates? ,,,,,,,,,,,Pete
lenco home made upgrade
- Thread starter Robert Cibran
- Start date
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grouperjim
Well-known member
In fact, I ordered some Lencos from Hodges Marine in Tampa. I ordered the 12 x 24 super strong (7 guage SS vs 12 guage). I do most of my fishing far far out and sometimes get caught in some pretty bad stuff, so I thought it would better to put some heavy duty metal back there.
I found Hodges online and don't really know anything about the company. I just know they are local so I can just drive over there if there is a problem.
I was in the evil empire (West Marine) yesterday, and they had Bennett blades for about $150 in the catalog.
jim
I found Hodges online and don't really know anything about the company. I just know they are local so I can just drive over there if there is a problem.
I was in the evil empire (West Marine) yesterday, and they had Bennett blades for about $150 in the catalog.
jim
Robert Cibran
Well-known member
hi guys,
This weekend I exchanged the OEM Lenco trim tabs 12x12 for the Lenco Blades 12x18,the job was fairly simple and only had to seal the original holes except one (center hole) and drill 10 others,by just switching the blades I was able to keep actuator in same place as originally placed by Parker and I also talked to Lenco and they told me Actuator that came with 12x12 can handle fairly easy the new size 12x18.I did not get to try the boat out as this whole weekend in South Florida winds were 20 to 25 knots the whole 3 days,so I decided to best test next week.I tried them out on land and everything works perfect,even the auto retract works excellent.
Will let you know how it handles once can get on the water.
Robert
[email protected]
This weekend I exchanged the OEM Lenco trim tabs 12x12 for the Lenco Blades 12x18,the job was fairly simple and only had to seal the original holes except one (center hole) and drill 10 others,by just switching the blades I was able to keep actuator in same place as originally placed by Parker and I also talked to Lenco and they told me Actuator that came with 12x12 can handle fairly easy the new size 12x18.I did not get to try the boat out as this whole weekend in South Florida winds were 20 to 25 knots the whole 3 days,so I decided to best test next week.I tried them out on land and everything works perfect,even the auto retract works excellent.
Will let you know how it handles once can get on the water.
Robert
[email protected]
jjjansk
Active member
Robert can you post some pics of your install? What you did is exactly what I want to do to mine. I don't want to move the actuator just upgrade to the 18's.
Robert Cibran
Well-known member
JJJansk
it was fairly simple,take the 12x12 out very carefully (remove the 3 bolts on the actuator,this will let the tab move flat towards transom,then remove the seven screws on the 12x12 blades,you will need to pry the backing plate from the tarnsom very carefully as this is glued with 5200 or regular silicon,once you have removed the backing plate,use a blade to remove all the hard silicon (no need to use sand paper),you will note two holes that are centered with the actuator (do not plug the top hole),for plugging the old holes,buy Marinetex and mix the small bottle with all the hardner that it comes with,buy at West marine 2 syringes,cut them desired hole diameter,put the marinetex inside the syringe and squeeze into the holes you want to plug all the way,after put blue painters tape on top of holes so that marinetex wont push itself out,wait a few hours until its hard.
then put another strip of painters tape,say 4 inches wide about 20 inches long all the length of the transom where you are going to mount the 12x18,take the new blades 12x18 and mount on the center top (old hole) very tight,then mount again the actuator with the 3 bolts and nut,tightend all the way,now you are looking at exactly how the new blades 12x18 will mount,take a pencil and mark the new holes to be drilled without taking the blades off,you will be marking on the blue tape.
once all has been marked,remove the actuator very carefully as not to move the backing plate from the marks you made,tightend screw if need be,with the backing plate in position,drill new holes using the small holes on backing plate as guide.once you have drilled all the new 10 holes (center hole is old hole),remove the blue tape,now you are ready to mount new 12x18 blades,on the new holes,squeeze some 5200 inside of them,not too much,on the backing plate put a nice bead of 3m silicon and you are ready to screw them on.its simple.you will need a 3/16 drill bit and the screws are #14-1 1/4,make sure to mark your drill bit as not to drill more than the 1 1/4 needed.
Robert
it was fairly simple,take the 12x12 out very carefully (remove the 3 bolts on the actuator,this will let the tab move flat towards transom,then remove the seven screws on the 12x12 blades,you will need to pry the backing plate from the tarnsom very carefully as this is glued with 5200 or regular silicon,once you have removed the backing plate,use a blade to remove all the hard silicon (no need to use sand paper),you will note two holes that are centered with the actuator (do not plug the top hole),for plugging the old holes,buy Marinetex and mix the small bottle with all the hardner that it comes with,buy at West marine 2 syringes,cut them desired hole diameter,put the marinetex inside the syringe and squeeze into the holes you want to plug all the way,after put blue painters tape on top of holes so that marinetex wont push itself out,wait a few hours until its hard.
then put another strip of painters tape,say 4 inches wide about 20 inches long all the length of the transom where you are going to mount the 12x18,take the new blades 12x18 and mount on the center top (old hole) very tight,then mount again the actuator with the 3 bolts and nut,tightend all the way,now you are looking at exactly how the new blades 12x18 will mount,take a pencil and mark the new holes to be drilled without taking the blades off,you will be marking on the blue tape.
once all has been marked,remove the actuator very carefully as not to move the backing plate from the marks you made,tightend screw if need be,with the backing plate in position,drill new holes using the small holes on backing plate as guide.once you have drilled all the new 10 holes (center hole is old hole),remove the blue tape,now you are ready to mount new 12x18 blades,on the new holes,squeeze some 5200 inside of them,not too much,on the backing plate put a nice bead of 3m silicon and you are ready to screw them on.its simple.you will need a 3/16 drill bit and the screws are #14-1 1/4,make sure to mark your drill bit as not to drill more than the 1 1/4 needed.
Robert
jjjansk
Active member
Robert thanks for the info. I guess I jumped the gun, I was thinking you put yours on with an offset. I'm going to install the 18's however the extra 6in will be inward offsetting the actuator. I have a welding shop that will fab mine for me, this will allow me to use all the existing screw holes. I will only have to drill new holes to accommodate the extra 6in in width. Should be a fairly easy install just wanted to see pics of someone’s mounted with an offset. If I was going to go bigger than 18 I would move the actuator; however I have twins and 18in is all I have room for. I will post pics when I get them installed.
greatcir
Well-known member
Robert,
Sure would help if you could post a photo or two but I get the drift.
After talking to Lenco and Bennett, I ordered my 12X18s (looks like Lenco & Bennett reverse these numbers) Lencos this morning to replace my 12X12s on my 2120.
I ordered them from Trailer Parts Superstore for $327 which includes (2) 12X18 Lenco plates, (2) actuators and hardware. Thought I'd get the new actuators for a couple of reasons. They seemed priced okay in the package. I can install the new actuators and keep the old ones as spares. If I mess up the actuator wires as I remove them I can wait to do any splicing to make them servicable.
Both Lenco and Bennett suggest I move my actuators inboard 3 inches to get the best performance from the tabs as letting more of my tabs go outboard will not help. So the old outer edge on my 12X12s will now be the outer edge of my 12X18s and I'll have 6 inches more tab inboard on each side.
I had hoped to get Bennett plates because they have no taper in them and I like the hinge better, but saw no Bennett 18X12 (their numbering) offered.
Maybe in the next month I can get after this install. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pete
Sure would help if you could post a photo or two but I get the drift.
After talking to Lenco and Bennett, I ordered my 12X18s (looks like Lenco & Bennett reverse these numbers) Lencos this morning to replace my 12X12s on my 2120.
I ordered them from Trailer Parts Superstore for $327 which includes (2) 12X18 Lenco plates, (2) actuators and hardware. Thought I'd get the new actuators for a couple of reasons. They seemed priced okay in the package. I can install the new actuators and keep the old ones as spares. If I mess up the actuator wires as I remove them I can wait to do any splicing to make them servicable.
Both Lenco and Bennett suggest I move my actuators inboard 3 inches to get the best performance from the tabs as letting more of my tabs go outboard will not help. So the old outer edge on my 12X12s will now be the outer edge of my 12X18s and I'll have 6 inches more tab inboard on each side.
I had hoped to get Bennett plates because they have no taper in them and I like the hinge better, but saw no Bennett 18X12 (their numbering) offered.
Maybe in the next month I can get after this install. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pete
Robert Cibran
Well-known member
the reason I did not offset the actuator was because I have read here in CP of others who did what I did and experienced an improvement,so I figured why offset and maybe get some "tab bending",if the 12x18's do not work as expected,then I can always go to 12x24 and going those 6 inches toward motor.
Robert
Robert
Robert Cibran
Well-known member
greatcir,
I also saw a post from cbigma with pictures of him just replacing the 12x12 with 12x18 and leaving the actuator in same place (no offset) and he says there is improvement with no problems,so this is way I went,will let you guys know how boat performs.
Robert
I also saw a post from cbigma with pictures of him just replacing the 12x12 with 12x18 and leaving the actuator in same place (no offset) and he says there is improvement with no problems,so this is way I went,will let you guys know how boat performs.
Robert
Wicho
Well-known member
Thanks for the PM Robert -
I'm going to attack this project soon - Sounds like it wasn't to bad putting in the new ones. I look forward to hearing about the performance..
Cheers,
William.
I'm going to attack this project soon - Sounds like it wasn't to bad putting in the new ones. I look forward to hearing about the performance..
Cheers,
William.
