Windlass over anchor locker door pics repost (old project)

A new member asked me for these pics. I did a search but didn't find my original thread.

.......these are what I have on my computer.

I used a 2" thick piece of nylon obtained from a marine scrap yard. Cut to size and grooved to match the style of existing anchor locker door that was being discarded.

Made the SS L brackets. Cut the bottom of the anchor locker entry flange off with the appropriate cut-off wheel so it's a straight shot down into the locker. Pre drilled holes from underneath through SS L brackets and Nylon. Through bolted the rest. Laid down a bead of marine grade clear silicone prior to positioning and final mounting.

Give yourself a loop of extra wire to make future adjustments.

Also - this install is still going strong.
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6542&p=46777&hilit=windlass#p46777

Jim, I know this post is over a year old, but I wanted to ask you: I don't see a way to thru bolt into the fabricated hatch cover that you constructed without the bolt heads showing from the top of the deck. So, did you screw into the nylon board from below and only thru bolted the board to the existing fiberglass utilizing your L brackets, lay some 5200 UV4000 or other sealant down and it's secure?
Thanks, I am doing this now and could use some pointers. I will be cutting the "anchor resting" insert away from the top lip as you did.
Aaron

Hey Aaron,

It's a simple design that uses screws from underneath for the most part as you see in the pics. I didn't want any visible hardware above. You will also see in one of the pics where the windlass studs come through the L brackets and bolts which is where the majority of the load/torque from the windlass transfers to the mount. Going on 8 years now............bullet proof.

One of the best mods ever.

grouperjim":lla7bp7l said:

You will also see in one of the pics where the windlass studs come through the L brackets and bolts which is where the majority of the load/torque from the windlass transfers to the mount.

Click to expand...

..... That, is a great idea.

Bryan 2530":1kwljoas said:

grouperjim":1kwljoas said:

You will also see in one of the pics where the windlass studs come through the L brackets and bolts which is where the majority of the load/torque from the windlass transfers to the mount.

Click to expand...

..... That, is a great idea.

Click to expand...

All windlass companies recommend to drop the line over the deepest part of the anchor locker. The 2320 has an 8.5' beam and if you drop the line more fwd as the pulpit mounted windlass does it has a tendency to hang up a bit and pile fwd inside the locker which restricts the amount of line you can retrieve without constantly going though the anchor locker access hatch to pull the line down.

FWIW the 2520/2530 with the 9.5' beam doesn't have has much an issue with a pulpit mounted windlass because the wider beam allows the rode pile (after it piles a bit) to tumble backwards towards the deepest part of the anchor locker. But that said, it's a smoother operation if you drop the line over the deepest part of the locker to begin with.