07 F250 cutting out

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albiejunkie

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Hi all,
My motor is cutting out at about 4300 rpm. It just shuts off right after losing revs and coughing a bit.
It happened once last week, then more frequently this week. Thats when I changed the F shape and VST. I changed the onboard and the "easy" on engine filtrrs 2 weeks ago.
Now I've already changed the big onboard filter, the motor mounted filter, the F shaped filter, and the VST filter. VST looked clean inside but filter was a bit dirty.
So after changing all filters, I am thinking low pressure pump.
Motor has 1200 hrs and is due for an oil change (the maintanance reminder just came on).
Also, I've seen the check engine message a few, but not every, times.
Thoughts anyone?

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The pump is probably a good next guess. Only other thing I would want to rule out is something clogging your pick up on the sending unit or fuel line issues. Fuel line may be collapsing? You could eliminate those by connecting a portable fuel tank at the fuel primer bulb a running it that way to see if it cuts out? Good luck.
 
Ran portable tank this am, same symptoms.
Yamaha mechanic coming this week..

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FYI when you see the Check Engine message, hold down the Mode button (I think it’s 10 seconds) and if there’s a diagnostic code it’ll display. Knowing the code may help identify the problem. I’m told that the code isn’t stored so attaching diagnostic software at a later time may not reveal anything.



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It’s also pretty easy to check fuel pressure to determine if the low pressure pump is working properly. You can get a fuel pressure gauge at an automotive store, connect it to the testing port on the fuel rail and check the pressure. There are instructions in the manual. It’s very simple.

Also on my 2006 F200 there’s a second F-shaped fuel filter at the rear of the engine by the canister. It’s called a fuel filter but I believe only passes vapor. Mine was pretty restricted at just under 1000 hours. I think it’s a 1000 hour maintenance item. Worth checking.


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Lastly you may want to test the check/relief valves that are associated with feeding the VST. They’re kind of expensive but easy to test. One is supposed to open at 2 psi and the other at 10 psi. There could be a problem if one or the other leaks or gets stuck shut. One of mine had a fair amount of white residue that I read is associated with ethanol. On my outboard they’re located alongside the VST to the front.


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WestCoastNut":2zzr6ov8 said:
FYI when you see the Check Engine message, hold down the Mode button (I think it’s 10 seconds) and if there’s a diagnostic code it’ll display. Knowing the code may help identify the problem. I’m told that the code isn’t stored so attaching diagnostic software at a later time may not reveal anything.



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Thanks. Yeah I got a 24 code, which I believe is an exhaust cam sensor, but from what I've read, may not be the cause.
I did change the F shaped filter already. I'll see what the mechanic tells me.

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albiejunkie":3rs8cvry said:
WestCoastNut":3rs8cvry said:
FYI when you see the Check Engine message, hold down the Mode button (I think it’s 10 seconds) and if there’s a diagnostic code it’ll display. Knowing the code may help identify the problem. I’m told that the code isn’t stored so attaching diagnostic software at a later time may not reveal anything.



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Thanks. Yeah I got a 24 code, which I believe is an exhaust cam sensor, but from what I've read, may not be the cause.
I did change the F shaped filter already. I'll see what the mechanic tells me.

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Okay it wasn’t clear to me that you replaced both of the F-shaped filters.


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Mechanic came down and found the code. He said he could not clear it without unplugging the sensor and plugging it back in. Found nothing else wrong after checking all the basics(fuel pressures, etc). Told me if it happens again that we should change the sensor screen or sensor itself. Its been fine since...

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